Floor shift for BW Flash o Matic?

The neutral/backup switch is on the column of AMC column shift cars, on the shifter of floor shift cars (with factory floor shifter). 

After looking at the instruction sheet, I don't see why the B&M Unimatic wouldn't work. It won't be a simple install -- you will have to modify one of the cable anchor points to fit (looks like C4 or C6 versions will be close) and you may have to modify the arm on your trans to get the right throw. The cable loops around the back of the trans, so it should work with the existing arm, but you may need to move the location of the hole where the cable mounts (should be same distance as the other arms). You can also loop the cable so that it pulls the arm from the front, just make sure there are big loops (or order a shorter cable).

This looks a lot like a four speed shifter -- nothing indicating position. I don't have the marker on my column shift and don't have an issue at all. You learn your car! Every now and then I get in a hurry and pull it into 3 instead of D (I have an AW4 OD trans), but it doesn't take long to realize I'm not in OD. Can't remember last time that happened though. It's a good theft deterrent too...

Yes, it seems they hid the small fuse panel on the 63-66 big cars. I installed a sub panel for accessories over on the passenger side firewall. Used a switched connection on the original panel to activate a relay for a little parts store six position fuse box that uses modern blade type fuses. So now I have six switched positions. I have a 40A fuse protecting the panel itself. I've considered getting a larger 8 or 10 position panel and re-wiring the connector for the original panel, but I just don't blow fuses often enough to worry about it. Haven't blown one in years... better make sure I have spare glass fuses in the car after saying that!


Edited by farna - Feb/14/2017 at 6:17am

I did the first part of Tom Jennings' mod, the part where you insert two lengths of bolt. As Tom says, what a silly design.
Tried to knock out the roll pin but it wouldn't come. Nothing to hit against with the column in the car and I'm worried I'll break the housing. Anyway, it's a lot less sloppy now. That was a clever fix he worked out.

The linkage at the foot of the column seems to have washers missing, there's some slack I should be able to take out. Then with any luck I can put the box in Low and readjust the links. Might be able to get it working in all gears. If it stops raining tomorrow I can back it out a bit so I can climb into the pit and work from underneath.

Interesting, the selector gate in the column.... there's a simple gate for P and R, but after it's in N, you can just move the lever. No gate definitions at all for N D2 D1. It seems the selection just depends on the detentes in the box.
That being the case, it should be possible to use any 3-speed non-ratchet floor shifter. If there is a gate on the shifter I could just file it off. So there's a job for next winter.

Ivor

Thankyou.
I'll have a look at that.

I adjusted the linkage so I can get all the gear positions. That's an improvement. But it's pretty sloppy in R and N, wouldn't want to leave it idling in neutral while I got out of the car.

When I started it up to drive back into the garage, fuel was pouring out of the float chamber vent. That's new and exciting.
So I stripped it, blew through the fuel valve, couldn't see anything. There are two filters on the car. The fuel tank is new. How can muck get in the carb.

I should fit the rebuilt carb I bought, but it seems to be running OK now and I don't like to disturb it.

Might actually go out in it tomorrow. Only to the shops but that would be something. Better take plenty of tools. Oh, and I need some petrol. Wonder what mileage I'll get. Around 15 (Imperial) I suppose.
Where the wife's concerned, don't ask don't tell.

Ivor