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Finding an OD trans

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IowaTom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/16/2020 at 6:54pm
I'm thinking that, too, Joe.  I'm trying to get the gears off this shaft, the nose of which goes into the clutch shaft, with the 13 needle bearings.  The manual says once I get the clutch shaft off, the gears should slide off.  Not with those overlapping fingers you see in the pic.  
I just don't want to start banging on them or applying force where I shouldn't.  Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/16/2020 at 11:13pm
Have you looked at my T-96 assembly pics? They're not too thorough but there are some photos that might help. 


https://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/1963-Rambler-American/Transmission/index.html


Is pretty much the same as your photo on page 1.



You've got 50 years of hardened lubricant. It's (brass) hammer time! Or aluminum. Or a chunk of aluminum and a smallish hammer. The outer synchro slide, that the shift-lever fork controls, has the stamped, spring loaded bumps/teeth that slide on that grooved collar thing that is currently stuck on the input shaft. Tap it off with an aluminum block or with a smallish hammer on the aluminum. Work it around the circumference. 

It really did take me three washes to get the parts clean. That s**t is cooked on there!


That's all the synchro stuff there on the main shaft. It's all close-tolerance stuff, so even super clean and oiled right, it seems to "stick" if you don't have it exactly square to each other.


1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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IowaTom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/16/2020 at 11:39pm
Tom - That's the news I needed to hear.  I'll use a soft metal to tap around the circumference until it gives. 
Your pages online and advice are super helpful.  Without you and the other good guys who've chimed in, I don't know if I'd have the 'nads to tear this down by myself.  As it turns out, someone would have had to.  A previous owner broke lots of teeth on first gear and the gear under it in the cluster...both of which I'm having to replace.
I snagged the $65 one on Ebay and found a new first/reverse gear, synchros and a gasket kit.  Will go to a local bearing store for the two last things I think I need.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote First_Gear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/17/2020 at 2:43pm
I remember mine was wedged on there too. It did slide off though. One thing to mention. If you can, use all new snap rings and tap around the edges of them with a hammer and a punch  to make sure they are fully seated when you re-assemble.

They sure are difficult to remove. I have a large scar on my leg where I stabbed myself with a screwdriver wrestling one of those snap rings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/17/2020 at 5:49pm
Yikes!  I thought of the distinct possibility of drawing blood when I was taking them off.  
I've heard it said you're not going to fix it until you bleed on it.  Ha!  All my cars have hidden DNA of mine and not by choice.
I found a great pair of snap ring pliers on Ebay that made the job much easier.
Also got the synchro thing off today by using a friends arbor press.  Another example of jobs going better with the right tools.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/17/2020 at 10:14pm
Originally posted by First_Gear First_Gear wrote:

If you can, use all new snap rings and tap around the edges of them with a hammer and a punch  to make sure they are fully seated when you re-assemble.

I can't emphasize enough how important this is. GOOD ADVICE.

I ruined my first T96 rebuild when the input shaft clip somehow wasn't seated, the shaft pushed inward and ground the rollers to bits. 

Transmissions have a lot of close-fit, close-tolerance, very hard parts. So things seem stuck/sticky a lot, and snap rings need to be seated, checked, and double-checked. You just can't be in a hurry, and you don't want to do this twice!


1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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