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enough carburetor

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nickleone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 1:31pm
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401 71 Gremlin pro rally car sold
390 V8 SX/4 pro rally car sold
1962 Classic SW T5 4 wheel disc brakes
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 1:34pm
Did I go too far? with the above.
Autolite/Ford 1100 carbs. 
Lost a few mpg but trans problems did not allow further testing.
Nick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jmerican Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 2:03pm
Ken drops two atom bombs in one day on the forum to open minds and expand horizons. Two big gifts on two different threads, to the people. I'm not kidding. 





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jmerican Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 2:06pm
That handsome triple setup. Something ain't right if you're losing mpg, unless it's the fun factor at work. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 2:27pm
Nickelone, were all three synchronous, meaning running at the same time? On three carb setups the idle circuits are usually plugged on the outboard carbs, so only the center one idles. Then the linkage is made with some "slack" in it so that the two outboard carbs come in a bit after idle. Some have springs on the end carb linkage so the spring has to give a bit before opening the butterfly. If all three are idling I bet that's where the fuel mileage hit was mostly. Way too rich at idle!!

Using PVC for the intake is an interesting concept! I'm not sure about gluing it, though that should be fine if there is enough surface area. You can get plastic welding kits from Harbor Freight cheap enough. The deal with welding plastic is you MUST have the right plastic composition or it won't stick. PVC should be easy enough though. Don't know about CPVC. In this case I don't think the high temp stuff is needed, think regular PVC should be fine with the cool fuel/air mix running through it. Don't think you can readily get CPVC in large enough diameters. I haven't looked for it, but don't recall seeing it bigger than 1" in the chain stores. A commercial plumbing supply might have it larger though.


Edited by farna - Nov/29/2018 at 2:30pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 2:41pm
Frank,
Progressive linkage with idle circuits in outboard carbs plugged.
I used a cable with stops. Center carb tight to cable others with slack.
I did not get any highway testing before the trans problems so mpg is from hills and back roads.
I am working on the T5 conversion. Engine and trans in the car and have a narrowed 8.8 Ford for rear.
Working on truck arms for the rear.

Nick

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401 71 Gremlin pro rally car sold
390 V8 SX/4 pro rally car sold
1962 Classic SW T5 4 wheel disc brakes
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 11:25pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

If it works well you can always go back and make one from aluminum.

yeah, j I don't have aluminum welding capability nor skill. steel is easy! just a ig harder to remove via grinding.

just bought a Dewalt die grinder -- very nice! totally happy with it. 

MIG is "hot glue gun for metal". and steel is very forgiving. just slower. but this is a one-off project!

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 11:33pm
Originally posted by Ken_Parkman Ken_Parkman wrote:

The 6 cyl firing order will be pulling on the intake back and forth. So part of the cycle the rear cylinders will be pulling from both barrels, part of the time the front cylinders. So a thought is round the divider to improve the flow when the rear cyl is pulling on the front barrel etc.

hah! yeah I'm closing my eyes and ignoring a lot. the longest path (cyls 1, 6) from booster venturi to valve is about 12" long. I have no idea what the pulses are doing. but Nash had some idea, or something, as there's funny little wedges in the trough; I think of them as anti-reversion wedges.  they're so intentional I assume they are there for a reason (lol, but maybe a bad reason, like left-handed lug nuts).

given that there's little I can do about it I'm pretending its not there. how's that for engineering?

(it *occurred* to me that one could make a device that inserts into the trough and make long plastic runners that lean over the valve cover, hence could be as long as you'd like, with side draft carb on the other side. but there's no point -- the intakes are not all paired! the valve pattern is

                        I EE II EE II EE I

aargh.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 11:35pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

One day Tom, for posterity, can you post all your engine specs that worked - from your experience.

well pretty much everything goes up at 195.6ohv.com. I'm a bit behind on this work, but I'm taking pictures and measurements.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 11:47pm
Originally posted by nickleone nickleone wrote:

Did I go too far?

I hope so!! lol.

you posted this before -- I recall thinking it was too much carb, but now esp with Ken's posts, I suspect I am wrong. 

there's a lot of 'low hanging fruit' in the stock 1956.6 head. it's flatly impossible to make it good. but you can sure make it a lot better! I hugely cut down the square, flashing-strewn cast iron around the valve guide (sic) in the valve pocket; like a teaspoon of steel each. it's all square edges, but some places are close to the water jacket so you can't do what you'd want to (seriously, it's so blocky, even never having done anything like this it was easy to greatly improve it). lots of flashing. heavy shrouding right under the valve seats. I cleaned it up back in 2010, then Pete Fleming here in LA worked it over again, mostly valve seats and things he didn't tell me.

oh, the combustion chambers were rough rough rough. I got them shiny smooth, mainly with an eye to (less) heat retention. 

I don't seem to have a lot of good pics of the head work. but compare this to a stock chamber: http://195.6ohv.com/HEAD/images/A%20new%20valve%20seats.jpg. this was my 2010 work. it's better now.

it's not good, just better. 


1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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