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Electrical problem. Need insight/advice please!
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70amcpwr View Drop Down
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Points: 1485 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 70amcpwr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2017 at 8:36pm
As mentioned and thought before, you're missing power to the fuse block from the ignition on position of the key more than likely. If I recall there's two good size wires feed the fuse panel, I recall one to be red, don't remember if both are or one yellow. Either way the TSM will tell you. I'd remove it and test for 12+ volts on the leads, first w/key off than on. If the wires have the volts the block is bad if you don't have power @ the fuse retainers.
70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX
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dodgemahal View Drop Down
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodgemahal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2017 at 10:48pm
Originally posted by george w george w wrote:

No power at the switched circuits ( heater blower, wipers, etc. )with the key ON indicates that you want to check for 12V battery power at the ignition switch ( most likely OK if you can start the car . The switch has an accessory feed that goes hot when you turn the key to on. That accessory output terminal / contact in the switch may be bad or you have a loss of connection between the switch connector and the fuse panel input side that feeds those accessory fuses. The dash/panel lights are not tied into the accessory feed. They are fed through the rheostat on headlight switch which has power at all times. Assuming the dash light bulbs are good your panel light issue is most likely a dirty/corroded resistance coil element on the headlight switch. These tend to corrode naturally with age and lack of use. The ceramic rheostat resistance element disc uses a coil of bare nichrome resistance wire and the mating contacts are either brass or copper. The corrosion develops between the contact surfaces of the dissimilar metals. Sometimes just rotating the headlight knob rapidly back and forth will clean the element and contacts enough to get the dash lights working, even if only at some portions of the rotation. If you take the switch out of the car you'll see that the ceramic disc is only held in place by spring pressure. You can remove the disc, clean the wire element and the contacts and put it back together.

If I were to guess I would say your accessory power problem is the ignition switch or the mating connector. This is a GM switch so it should be available. The small spark you get when connecting/disconnecting the battery cable may be current draw from the clock, assuming the car has a clock. This would be especially likely if the clock doesn't work. It's counter intuitive that if the clock is non functional that it could draw power constantly whereas a working clock will only draw power for about a second every 3 to 5 minutes. These are mechanical, spring wound clocks. The spring that operates the clock is electrically wound by a magnetic mechanism that uses a coil and a set of contact points. When the clock spring winds down a set of contacts close, a magnetic coil is energized for about a second that winds the spring back up. This cycle repeats every few minutes. If for some reason the clock won't wind back up ( like the battery voltage is way too low ) the contacts will stay closed and can stick. Then the magnetic coil stays energized all the time and drains the battery even further. On the other hand, if you see a little spark, and maybe hear a faint click from inside the car when connecting a battery cable, it could simply be the initial draw of the winding mechanism restarting the run down clock.   

George, this is really good information and really gives me a place to start, besides checking grounds. Thanks so much. The car does NOT have a clock. What is a mystery to me is that even though I have that tiny spark condition the battery always seems strong and will crank the engine for 20 seconds or more due to the fact that the Pacer will sit for weeks at a time and gasoline in the carb will evaporate and the bowl will need to refill before the engine starts. If you think of anything else, let me know.

One thing worth mentioning is that I replaced the alternator a few months back but seems to be working fine.
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodgemahal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2017 at 11:01pm
Originally posted by 70amcpwr 70amcpwr wrote:

As mentioned and thought before, you're missing power to the fuse block from the ignition on position of the key more than likely. If I recall there's two good size wires feed the fuse panel, I recall one to be red, don't remember if both are or one yellow. Either way the TSM will tell you. I'd remove it and test for 12+ volts on the leads, first w/key off than on. If the wires have the volts the block is bad if you don't have power @ the fuse retainers.

Thanks.....I will check that out as others have responded with the similar notions. My TSM is getting a work out. I will have to wait a few days to get on this as it is very cold in Illinois and my garage is not heated. Ha!
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george w View Drop Down
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Points: 2899 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/06/2017 at 7:53am
The "small spark" issue when connecting/disconnecting the battery can be dealt with after you solve the main problem. Apparently it's a low current draw.Does the car have an aftermarket radio or stereo of some sort ? These usually have a constant power feed to retain memory or power an internal clock. Under hood light being on when the hood is up ? Glove box light stuck on. Get the big issues fixed first.
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dodgemahal View Drop Down
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodgemahal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/06/2017 at 2:55pm
Originally posted by george w george w wrote:

The "small spark" issue when connecting/disconnecting the battery can be dealt with after you solve the main problem. Apparently it's a low current draw.Does the car have an aftermarket radio or stereo of some sort ? These usually have a constant power feed to retain memory or power an internal clock. Under hood light being on when the hood is up ? Glove box light stuck on. Get the big issues fixed first.

George,
  Yes indeed....I won't worry about the current draw problem until I fix the big stuff. However, just to keep you informed-- Pacer has original radio and I already had removed the bulbs for the under hood and the glove box anticipating those to be possible culprits.....they seem not to be. Thanks.

  This car has 28,xxx miles and sat in my Uncle's shed for most of those years. No signs of mice damage.

  Ignition switches are only 5 to 10 bucks on Rock Auto!
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dodgemahal View Drop Down
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodgemahal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/15/2017 at 7:47pm
Mystery solved-----pulled the ignition switch(with much pain!) and found the brown wire out of the connector dangling and not connected to the switch. Re-inserted it into its slot and plugged it into a new switch. We will see tomorrow if blower/wiper/turn signals work.
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