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Edelbrock heads vs Indy |
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kingsX
AMC Nut Joined: Jan/20/2011 Location: Holland, MI Status: Offline Points: 343 |
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I probly wont go crazy with the boost. 10-12 lbs max. Will start out around 6-8lbs. This guy doesn't run a blower in any of his cars as far as I know but has a few pure drag cars that he uses Indys on. He has more cars than I can think of. Wish I had that problem. He's also made me aware of the inconsistent quality issues with Indy. And says not to have them do my machine work. Mostly because of what they charge for it. |
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73 AMX Javelin PC
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jcisworthy
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/23/2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2805 |
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Indy heads are a great product in my opinion. They need a lot of work to make them real good but they are cast with enough material so you can do whatever you want to them without breaking through. When a power adder is in the mix they would work fine out of the box. The beauty of porting them using a power adder is that they would make the same power with less boost if you are not wanting to turn the boost up.
jtsllc1 wrote "As far as heads I see no reason to use any after market head for high flow numbers to .500 lift and as for the exhaust well the iron head is just perfect... " I have to agree with you there. After getting into these Edelbrock heads the factory iron head is hard o beat for flow to .500. The Indy head will take off at .400 over iron but the Edelbrock is not much better past .400 I never thought I wold say this but I prefer the iron over the Edelbrock in many ways. With iron, I have a fresh pallet to start with if you will. With Edelbrock I am improving on work someone else has done. Where I think the Edelbrock heads would shine for me is to install a larger valve, perhaps a 2.055, which would allow for all the angles of my valve job I developed to come in.
Although not completely finished, I did get the exhaust up to 200 with a pipe at .700 and it does not stall until .900. That was with the shape in the previous pictures and not matching below the as cast floor. Also, after getting into these heads, they are basically what you would get from porting iron except for the bowl being larger than you can make an iron head. On the Edelbrock bowl, they took the bias out which I think the factory iron is a better design with the bias. If Edelbrock took a ported iron head and copied it only making it bigger, they would be a better head in my opinion. Now if they offered a raised runner application that would be a different story all together. |
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Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting
rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
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Boris Badanov
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4209 |
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Weight is a factor.
All things being equal you will save 50 lbs give or take. To the head porter and racer there is another big advantage to any aluminum head, you can easily weld up the whoopsies. Damage from blown up motors or sneezing while doing a sensitive area can be weld repaired. I had a set of heads DESTROYED by a drunken head porter when they were nearly finished. If they were aluminum they could have been fixed. Personally I chose the Indy head because of the potential of the raised intake and the longer short side radius. |
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Gremlin Dreams
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shootist
AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023 |
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Glad to hear your parts gathering is coming along King. You will love it once you get it together. I have yet to run mine past 5k RPM because at that point the thing is just scaring the crap out of me. Based solely on the dyno for the hot rod build I am still about 110HP short of feeling what the car can make in power. It is so radical for the street in fact that I am considering changing the pulley to make quite a bit less power for driving off track. You just have to ride in it to understand. I tried some Nitto NT555 drag radials on the back and still can't get it to hook in 1st or 2nd gear. It is a blast to drive but leaves you shaking everytime. If you haven't ever driven a car making the level of power the motor you are putting together will be capable of making you are in for a experience. Just be careful, since I changed to the straightdrive I can break traction going into 3rd and 4th gear with ease.
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DaemonForce
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2012 Location: Olympia, WA Status: Offline Points: 1070 |
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Weight being comparable to every Ford FE I've ever had to constantly tune and overall power production over powerplant weight being the primary factors, going to an aluminum Eddy or Indy head over the iron cast heads is a win to me no matter how many ways you slice it. Sure you can fix boogers on the aluminum heads but input/output things need to be taken into consideration for relative size. You don't want to overbuild the intake for power the engine can't handle after like 80% throttle or prone to severe rich/flooding. Likewise, you don't want that intake to be the reason the engine falls flat either. If I were building another large bore engine I would most likely pick the Indy heads for a 390-436 final size. The Eddy heads would probably serve better on a destroked variation between 357-375. One thing I've learned this year is that most of the problems I've encountered with big engines goes away when I eliminate components that have "too much" potential.
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1971 Javelin SST
American 304 2v | FMX | AM20-3.31 1983 American Limited Jeep 4(.7)L S-MPFI | 1982 NWC T-5M (4.03/.76) | Dana30IFS/35-2.72 |
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kingsX
AMC Nut Joined: Jan/20/2011 Location: Holland, MI Status: Offline Points: 343 |
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Shootist, I'm so excited to get this thing together. I haven't driven but have been passenger in a 700-800 HP street cars several times. I know its no where near the same experience as driving them but holy cow are they fast. My plan is to start off with the base pulley that came with the blower and see where that gets me. Probly going to do the Eddy heads straight out of the box, Fitech FI, and run E85. If that gets me over 600HP I'll be good. If not, we'll see. I also don't think I'll ever go over 5-5500 rpm's. Don't think I'll need to really. I currently run Nitto NT555(not drag radials) and honestly they don't hook up now. I've just been waiting for them to loose a little more tread before I toss them and get something new. Shouldn't take long after the motor swap. |
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73 AMX Javelin PC
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jcisworthy
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/23/2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2805 |
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Got some Edelbrock flow numbers for a street engine I am building. Competition valve job with some porting. No chamber work yet other than a unshrouding cut. Chambers are good as cast so there probalby will not be much change when done but you never know.
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Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting
rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
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jcisworthy
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/23/2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2805 |
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One disappointment I had with quality control on these Edelbrock heads was the free drop. For those who do not know, free drop is the distance the head of the valve is in relation to the deck.
The intakes were .025" different from one head to the other and the exhausts were .010. I corrected them to no more than .002 from one head to the other when I did my valve job.
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Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting
rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
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jtsllc1
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/24/2013 Location: ORFORDVILLE WI Status: Offline Points: 1037 |
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The customer pays all that money to have Aluminum bolt on heads and then the final bill comes into play.
Not to mention some of the heads need to be re decked and the guides are to tight so they need to opened up and then you have the false advertised flow numbers to contend with. So the question is what is the final price to get a bolt on aluminum head to the advertised spec. ? Does it end up being twice the price?
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JTSLLC1
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gremlinsteve
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/16/2008 Location: houston Status: Offline Points: 884 |
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So here the question remains
To go e Brock or go Indy sr There both close in price |
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