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Edelbrock Air-Gap PCV Baffle

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falarco View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote falarco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2015 at 2:59pm
I had the same issue with my air gap and I also had to disconnect PCV hose to carburetor but then had issue with oil accumulating at bottom of manifold. I finally removed air gap and found out that engine builder(Tuff Dawg) had not installed valley pan and also installed to large of a oil modification hose to R/H valley bank between 6-8 cylinder and a valley pan would not sit down where its suppose to. I had to redo mod with a steel line and installed valley pan with attention to sealing areas and have not had problems at all. Weird?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2015 at 10:00pm
I installed one of the first Air Gap manifolds, if not the first Air Gap manifold that made it's way into Arizona and never had a bit of trouble with it. It is still on my Donohue and the ram air package still works too. All I did was to read and follow the instructions.
70 390 5spd Donohue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bob401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/04/2015 at 6:37pm
Originally posted by falarco falarco wrote:

I had the same issue with my air gap and I also had to disconnect PCV hose to carburetor but then had issue with oil accumulating at bottom of manifold. I finally removed air gap and found out that engine builder(Tuff Dawg) had not installed valley pan and also installed to large of a oil modification hose to R/H valley bank between 6-8 cylinder and a valley pan would not sit down where its suppose to. I had to redo mod with a steel line and installed valley pan with attention to sealing areas and have not had problems at all. Weird?

When you reinstalled did you cut holes threw the valley pan for your line or did you do under?  Im having same issue..  But I hoping installing a torker with the proper OIL Baffle will solve it..  MY RPM has a small baffle designed by Edelbrock  Do not know if it was first RPM intake generation or after...  


Thanks


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THE MENACE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THE MENACE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/22/2015 at 11:44am
The 416 stroker engine in my 70 AMX has been run on the Dyno multiple times. First with the (very first) Air-Gap intake ever cast, and then with a regular production Air-Gap intake then with the Pro-Flo II EFI intake using only the baffle plate that come with the intakes, and we never had an issue pulling oil out of the PCV.

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70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's car)
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uncljohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/22/2015 at 8:26pm
The Edelbrock Air Gap manifold on my 70 390 was I believe the first one ever installed in AZ so it has been on there a while. Now granted it is installed right by the installation instructions and I do not have any of the oil mods that many people feel are necessary (I don't) and I have had it there for I don't know, 20 some odd years maybe? I never had a problem pulling oil out of the PCV valve.
Yes it is a street engine.
It is also driven like a street engine.
It has seen some high rpm work as after all it also has an Iskenderian cam installed and uses a 625CFM Carter AFB and a 5 speed.
Personally I have always felt this manifold was a much needed improvement.
70 390 5spd Donohue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/04/2020 at 2:15pm
Well as most of the pics are missing form the earlier posts in this thread I made up my own baffle design and here's what it looks like:







The boxed sides act as a drip edge to prevent condensed liquid from draining right down into the baffle. Although it looks small, the rectangular slotted inlet area between the splash plate and the drip edge is actually quite a bit, something like 8 times more area than the plate Edelbrock provides with the intake. And the holes act as a secondary baffle and keep the stainless scrubby mesh material. I stuffed some of that in from the top before popping in the bushing. 


Edited by Greyhounds_AMX - Jul/04/2020 at 2:17pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scrappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2023 at 8:35pm
I'm performing thread necromancy to add my version of a separator for this manifold.

I'd solved the issue of oil getting into the intake by installing a Mann & Hummel ProVent, but since 2+ oz of oil was getting in the ProVent during autocrosses, I figured I'd try to fix that if I ever had to pull the manifold.  A lifter issue reared its head, so the manifold had to come off.

This is the Edelbrock-supplied louvered plate which comes with the manifold.  The reason for including this pic is to point out where I've run a yellow line across the plate.  Note that on the left side of the pic where the plate is below the yellow line, there's a bit of a shadow.  This is because the machining was not flat in this area, leaving an 0.050" step where the yellow line is, causing a gap between the manifold and the plate.


I leveled off the area with a large file...


... then bent up a baffle/box to hold some stainless scrubber material.  To ensure the vapors/droplets don't have a "shortcut," I epoxied the corners and will use some sealer between the box and manifold, then lay a bead of silicone on the "ramps" of the removable lid and in the vee between the box and manifold.  As Greyhounds_AMX did with his baffle, this has drip edges, plus a couple of drip points on the lid.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2023 at 9:10pm
Some nicely engineered solutions there, about the only observation I’d make is the factory baffle pan is quite large, which would help to slow the air velocity down. 

For competition use, I’d be inclined to ditch the PCV and run a catch can off the valve covers, well that’s what I’ve done anyway.
I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scrappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2023 at 10:16pm
Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:

Some nicely engineered solutions there, about the only observation I’d make is the factory baffle pan is quite large, which would help to slow the air velocity down.


Thanks.  Your observation is valid, but the shape & size of the area available back there with the Air-Gap won't allow anything close to the combined volume of the factory baffle & PCV "plenum." I could have extended the box further and/or angled the forward side to match the bathtub of the manifold,  but didn't want to try a more complicated shape. 

In any event, the perimeter gap at the inlet "lid" is 0.420 sq in, which is probably at least 8x the cross-sectional area of the Edelbrock plate's four small louvers, and the 20 1/4" holes in the box total 0.982 in sq.  A 3/8" hose has a 0.110 sq in cross-sectional area, so the velocities through the perimeter gap and holes will be ~4x and ~9x slower than the hose, respectively.  I might add some holes to the lid, as none of this is permanently installed yet.

Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:

For competition use, I’d be inclined to ditch the PCV and run a catch can off the valve covers, well that’s what I’ve done anyway.


For competition use, sure.  My car sees mainly street use.
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