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Eaton Power Steering Pump Rebuild

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Chisam View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chisam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2014 at 11:18pm
I changed the bolts on my pump as well and I just got new bolts and then added threads to them. They are 3/8 16 thread and not hard to do with a hand die.
1968 AMX 390 4SP
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CamJam View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2014 at 11:20pm
Originally posted by Chisam Chisam wrote:

I changed the bolts on my pump as well and I just got new bolts and then added threads to them. They are 3/8 16 thread and not hard to do with a hand die.


Hey, that's a great idea!  Thanks!!
'73 Javelin 360 (current project)
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST
'69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award) SOLD

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JFox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/27/2014 at 10:20am
Originally posted by CamJam CamJam wrote:




Originally posted by JFox JFox wrote:

Here are pictures of mine.

http://s194.photobucket.com/user/Foxwoodworking/library/AMX/Power%20Steering%20Pump?sort=3&page=1

Not sure if this will get you there or not.

Sorry, don't know how to make it a clickable link.


Well Jeff, that's definitely visual confirmation that your pump had the same grooves and eccentic cam insert as mine, so I guess I'm good to go.  Only thing I notice is that your work bench looks a whole lot more organized than mine . LOL

Steve, thanks for the diagram.  That certainly clears up for me how it works.

 




It only looks organized because I pushed all the crap out of the way for the pictures.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote amxdreamer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/28/2014 at 12:10am
Originally posted by scott scott wrote:

I when I do the Eaton pumps, I assemble them differently than instinct tells you to. Rather than assembling the back half of the pump first, then sliding the front cover  (with seal installed) over the shaft, I do it backwards. I first slide the shaft in from the front of the front cover, then assemble everything & slide the rear on. Doing it this way is  harder, but sliding the shaft in from the front won't rip the seal. Try a couple of dry runs this way without a seal installed to get a feel for it, once you have the hang of it install the seal, & assemble for real. If you've had a pump apart recently, this should be easy to understand, harder to describe for me.

The real problem with these pumps is a worn front bushing in the cover. I haven't found a way to replace the bushing, & a loose bushing means its going to leak some. The seal can only do so much. 



Same here Scott, the local steering shop pointed out to me that the manual doesn't show the process correctly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Kapptaink Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/28/2014 at 7:40am
The first time I fixed mine I did it the first instinct way.When I did it for Charleston I did it the way Scott it describing. The seal goes on without damaging it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/04/2014 at 12:57pm
Here's what I've learned playing with this rascal off and on for a week.  The National (aka Federal Mogul) brand front seal (part # 6835S) goes on much easier than the one supplied in the Napa rebuild kit.  The metal part of the shell is wider on the Napa seal, which makes it stronger, but it also means the rubber lip is narrower so does not deflect as easily.  It also seems that the rubber is harder. This makes it more likely to catch on the lip, so it turns inside out or tears when you try to slip it over the ridge on the shaft.  Even using electrical tape lubricated with transmission fluid I tore a couple of these.

The rubber on the National seal (available from O'Reilly's) is more pliant, so it slips over the ridge easier.  However, the metal shell is weaker, so you have to be careful when you pound it in not to deform the shell (ask me how I know).  Make sure you use a socket that goes all the way to the outer edge of the shell.  It went on so easily that I wondered if it was making a good seal, but I checked the inside dimensions of a spare National seal with calipers and compared it to the Napa one, and the National was actually ever-so-slightly smaller. So if anything, it should seal better. 

Another difference...  I couldn't come up with any good way to measure it as my small metal ruler has gone AWOL, but to my eye the National seal seems more recessed than the Napa seal, so if you have any sort of groove worn in your shaft from the old seal, one or the other of these might work better for you in this respect (depending on where your shaft is worn).
 


Edited by CamJam - Sep/04/2014 at 1:01pm
'73 Javelin 360 (current project)
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST
'69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award) SOLD

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