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Early AMX / Javelin Hydraulic Clutch Setup

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Greyhounds_AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/29/2015 at 10:42am
Progress on the pedal bracket...





1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69AMX364 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/29/2015 at 11:09am
The deal is with a change to hydraulic clutch it is very common to change the size of the master cylinder after you have driven it awhile. Sometimes more then once (that change helped and was in the right direction but...)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/29/2015 at 2:15pm
Hopefully that won't be needed in this case. The master cylinder bore I'm using matches that of the stock Jeep hydraulic setup, and I'm using the stock Jeep slave. The Centerforce clutch setup and throwout bearing are made for the same Jeep setup as well. So basically I should have a stock Jeep setup except with the name Wilwood on the master cylinder. I would've used the stock Jeep master cylinder as well (cheaper!), but it just wouldn't fit in the space so I had to go with the aftermarket one.

I've also spent a fair bit of time on the calculations to verify that it'll all work correctly and provide the proper amount of clutch travel and free play, etc. I'll pencil whip something for hours just to save a buck - that's a side effect of being an engineer.

The nice thing is that the pedal bracket just bolts on, so it's easy to change if needed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/30/2015 at 12:13pm
Here’s the master cylinder bracket. The front and back plates are ¼” and the sides are 14 gauge. It could probably be done in tube steel but the dimensions are pretty oddball.
 
 
 
 

In order to clear the brake lines I had to shift the MC toward the passenger side a bit, so the centerline of the mounting studs is 0.170” to the right of MC centerline. There's a drain slot at the bottom so if the seals fail the fluid doesn't leak into the car.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/01/2015 at 11:22am
Here’s the MC mounted in the engine bay. Once the brake booster assembly goes back in it’ll be hard to even see the clutch MC.
 

This is the pushrod joining the pedal to the MC. It’s 7/16” x 0.049” 4130 tubing with 5/16” UNF nuts welded to the ends.

 
 
The pushrod rubs the stock firewall hole just slightly at the top right corner, so I’ll grind that back about 1/16”.
 
 

The pedal connection is done with a rod end. Sorry for the blurry pic.

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/05/2015 at 4:28pm
Here's a better picture of the master cylinder mounted to the firewall. With the trans out of the way it was easy to get a decent picture.

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Here’s the slave cylinder setup I’m using. From Rock Auto this is a part number CS11956 ($12.59), and fits 1980-85 Jeep L6 and 1980-83 AMC L4 and has a 7/8” bore size. It comes with the rod and the boot that goes over the rod, but it doesn’t include the plastic tip. I got that from 4WD Hardware, part number CROJ3217479 ($0.99).

 

The bellhousing I’m using had a casting date of 1980. There are three holes in the bellhousing near where the slave would bolt up, and only two of them are tapped. If I was to use the two tapped holes though the rod would be at a crazy angle, so I ended up using one tapped hole and put a nut on the back of the untapped hole. I actually formed a little piece of bar stock to match the bellhousing shape and welded a nut to it, then JB Welded the whole thing to the bellhousing. That should spread the load out as much as possible. It’s probably not necessary, but it was fun.

 

 

The return spring is usually mounted between the slave and the bellhousing, but the untapped hole that I used for the slave cylinder was the hook point for the spring. I made the little plate extend out a bit and put a hole in it for the spring to attach to if that ends up working out. For now I have the spring on the outer side of the slave.

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PlazinJavelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/29/2016 at 10:00pm
Missed this thread originally. That's some very nice work you've done. Gotten to drive it yet?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/31/2016 at 9:24pm
Thanks!

I haven't tried it all out yet due to some "scope creep". With the new clutch pedal my knee was hitting the steering wheel, so I had to rebuild a tilt column for it, then since that was out of the car I figured I'd repaint the fenderwell where some brake fluid leaked, then since that was all out of the way I figured I'd fit my headers since it wouldn't matter if I scratched the fenderwell, etc, etc.

Who knows where it will all end...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/15/2016 at 12:42pm
During the course of my header install (see my "Header Hack" thread for details) I found that the stock location of the Jeep slave cylinder was going to limit how tight I could tuck the headers in to the floor.




This is actually a pretty common problem and Wilwood makes a pull type slave that can be mounted on the opposite side of the bellhousing, next to the transmission. With the T5 there's a bunch of space available there because the shift linkage is internal.

There are a few different aftermarket pull type slave cylinders out there that I found:
   Wilwood 260-1333, 1-3/8” stroke, 7/8” bore, includes rod end, $82
   Coleman 375-200, 1-3/8” stroke, 7/8" bore, includes rod end, $82
   Howe 829,    1-3/8” stroke, 3/4” bore, includes rod end, $56
   CNC 300-BU, 1-1/8” stroke, 7/8” bore, includes rod end, $63
   Speedway 91025604, 15/16” stroke, 7/8” bore, no rod end, $35

The original Jeep slave is 7/8" bore, and my calcs indicate I need about 1.25" of travel. It's better to have more travel available than less, as I can put a stop on the pedal travel to limit it. So that limits it to the Wilwood and the Coleman, and Wilwood is a much more common name and should be easier to get a replacement when the time comes.

I made up a bracket from leftover 3/16" and 1/4" plate, bolting it to two of the tailhousing bolts which I replaced with 10mm longer flange bolts. The bracket rests against the trans case to pick up the moment load, but I also drilled through one of the blank tabs on the side of the trans and bolted the bracket there just for fun. The 5/16" rod end seems small, as does the single shear connection to the bracket, but keep in mind that this thing only carries about 100 lbs of force.







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