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Eagle 258 with oil soaked air cleaner

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MIPS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MIPS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/16/2019 at 6:02pm
Did the plugs and the test today. Here's the gritty on the old plugs.



All of the plugs look good on one side and stained on the other. They were all also horribly gapped.

As for cylinder compression CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING BEFORE YOU READ THE NUMBERS: It appears my 14mm fitting is not deep enough to securely seat in the plug hole. I can barely get two or so threads in with the O-ring removed but as a result all the readings will be lower than normal due to leaking around the fitting.



1 - 150psi (easy reach, could screw the tester in a bit more with pliers)
2 - 130psi
3 - 135psi
4 - 140psi
5 - 135psi
6 - Unable to get the tester in

So taking the above while aware the tool was not installed properly it looks pretty uniform between cylinders and reasonably good

Quote this is too obvious and oyu sound alert, but it's not over-full of oil?

No that's a valid question to ask. When I bought the car six months ago the oil level was sitting above the FULL line (and over the "FULL" text on the dipstick). Today it's still above the FULL line but it's now down to about 1/4" above the line.

Quote with the engine stopped, you can manually check for a sealed crankcase; put a hose on the PCV and blow into it like inflating a balloon. it should hold the pressure reasonably well with your finger on the end of the hose


I plugged the PCV ports and used a piece of radiator hose to blow air in via the oil cap. It's holding pressure pretty good, though it's clearly leaked oil since I wiped the manifold down yesterday.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/18/2019 at 10:57pm
Compression looks good.

A lot of Eagles had a PCV shutoff solenoid that the computer used to shut off the PCV flow on some occasions. A problem may exist with that solenoid.

There may be no baffle under the air inlet hose at the back of the valve cover to prevent oil from splashing up off the rocker arms and entering the hose.

Lots of full throttle use will push more oil into the air cleaner. PCV cannot work at full throttle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/19/2019 at 8:54am
There's supposed to be various  adapters on that compression gauge fitting with a O-ring on it , or tapered for the different spark plug types.

You seemed to have got it to work OK on most of the plugs without the adapters.

Plus those plugs are in gaped pretty haphazard ,  especially that one in the middle with the ground strap not in alignment with the electrode.


Edited by tyrodtom - Mar/19/2019 at 8:58am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MIPS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/19/2019 at 6:55pm
Quote A lot of Eagles had a PCV shutoff solenoid that the computer used to shut off the PCV flow on some occasions. A problem may exist with that solenoid.

There may be no baffle under the air inlet hose at the back of the valve cover to prevent oil from splashing up off the rocker arms and entering the hose.


My eagle doesn't appear to have a solenoid on the PCV. Vacuum seems to come direct from the base of the carb to the PCV where it tees off at the PCV valve to the charcoal canister and the valve cover. The other side goes straight to the breather in the air cleaner. The diagram for the CeC does not indicate any computer control on the PCV either, so it's not electronic at least.


(diagram above confirmed correct, excluding Divert and Upstream solenoids, as my Eagle shipped without the pulse air system)

Someone else suggested I verify an oil baffle is in the aftermarket valve cover and at the least I can look down both openings and there's a metal plate blocking a direct view at the valves but I have not removed the valve cover to confirm a baffle assembly is in there. That requires a tube of Right Stuff.

For the sake of it I've removed the old breather filter element and replaced it with a clean element. Another thing I didn't think of was the old filter was so badly soaked it was inhibiting enough air passing through it. I'll leave it in there for another week or so and see if the problem returns.

Edited by MIPS - Mar/19/2019 at 7:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 5:52am
While look for the baffle, if possible, look for blocked oil returns and oil accumulation on top of the head.
Oil does not usually just get sucked out the top of an engine. The crankcase is either getting pressurized or the oil level/aerated oil is high enough to get caught by the PVC circuit.
This aftermarket cover begs the question, is the "baffle" catching/pooling oil from the rockers and is there a path back to the breather from there?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1982AMCConcord Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 1:11pm
I had this on my 258... eventually it got worse... I kept cleaning it out... then one day it started oozing white foaming goo into the air filter housing.... and that ended up being a blown head gasket... then I rebuilt the whole engine at that point...  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2019 at 1:29am
The oil return drain holes in my 258 were very plugged up with a combination of sludge and silicone sealer from dozens of valve cover gasket jobs. It was all down around the lifters. I literally had to dig it out with a spoon and then I had the entire block vatted.

They don't plug up with sludge like that if you use good oil and maintain the engine properly, but few 258's have had proper maintenance over their entire lives. Most of the Eagles still on the road today were used as $200 winter beaters at one point in their life, and one point is enough to do it.

Or the "it leaks so much oil that I just keep adding it and changing the filter" mentality. That will plug them up too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MIPS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2019 at 9:02pm
I have no idea what the previous owner used for oil in this. Typically I've gone for Penzoil High Mileage as I exclusively used it in my previous car until I retired it. I was planning on replacing the filter and oil in the Eagle pretty quickly so I knew exactly what was in the block.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2019 at 1:57am
We've all heard the Pennzoil and Quaker State sludge horror stories, but sludge comes from neglect, age, and wear.

All the engines I've dealt with that had serious sludge problems had a known past of poor maintenance and use. Short trips, infrequent changes, overheating, and valve cover leaks. Those will all gum up an engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2019 at 9:14pm
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

We've all heard the Pennzoil and Quaker State sludge horror stories, but sludge comes from neglect, age, and wear.


yup. i don't think you can buy "bad" oil today, certainly not any even crappy brand name. the lowest house-brand oil from autozone or CVS will be as good or better than average oil from the 60's.

it's very straightforward -- old engines need to be rebuilt. "low miles" only matters if it's also "low years". 40 years old is ancient, 5 times design life. when cars get to be 10, 15 years old it's "give it to the kid" handmedowns and maintenance usually ends there, then it ends up behind a barn, until we pull
em out and revive them. 

the maintenance that was deferred in 1980 has certainly come due in 2019!

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