Driveshaft removal - big nut rear end

I have a '65 American with the big nut rear end. I put in a 232 and am installing a T14. I need to remove the driveshaft to get it resized. When my kids and I pulled the 195.6 and T96, the front of the driveshaft dropped. But I need to disconnect the rear.

I went to Tom Jenning's web site and looked at big nut pictures. I also looked at the TSM.
http://www.worldpowersystems.com/AMC/1963-Rambler-American/Big-nut/index.html

If I understand the pictures, I remove the big nut rear yoke by holding the driveshaft from turning using one 1 3/4 inch wrench and turning the nut so that it moves back towards the rear axle. Is that correct? (so would I be under the car on the driver's side pulling the wrench down?). Anything else I need to do? Car is on jack stands. Jack stands are under the rear axles, not on the body. Do I also need to support the center of the housing to relieve pressure?

If I leave the big nut alone I read that the rear yoke is attached to the drive shaft by a cap screw, lock washer and flat washer. I'm having a hard time visualizing how to remove that, and once I do - would I need to press it out.

So - big nut rear end. Car on stands. Two borrowed 1 3/4" combination wrenches in hand (thanks!!!!). What is the best way to remove the driveshaft so I can get it resized?




Edited by bruceg - Mar/29/2015 at 10:04am

FARNA's got it -- i think! lol.

it's as he says, tapered inside, tightening the nut, it clamps the splined part. i couldn't remember if its nut-to-rear or the opposite to tighten! it is a standard right-hand thread. i bought a pair of wrenches from Amazon, "Fuller" brand, decent quality. i can go get the size if you need.

the rear gap/spacing is not critical, if i recall about 1/2" between the dust slinger and the pumpkin casting is "fine". the goal is: don't bottom the trans spline, don't have the driveshaft fall out. the latter is harder than you'd think, and requires everything to be worn out all at once to happen.

i cut a huge hole under the rear seat to get at the big nut with the pair of wrenches. WHY DIDNT I DO THIS 10 YEARS AGO. then fabbed a steel cover that sheet metal screws on.

without the hole, in your driveway, you really cannot get it tight. i'm really good at all sorts of trickery and it's a problem. but get it as tight as you can, then go get an oil change at a real shop, and do it when it's up on the lift! the rambler-friendly place i went to, when i explained the issue, found the idea so amusing they were enthusiastic about watching and helping.

it's not often you get to use wrenches that are comically big like that.

The big nut rear driveshaft yoke was never used with the big 232 six, but it can handle the power if it's installed correctly.  I know this from experience as I broke a few of those rear yokes years ago after transplanting a 232, until I realized that the nut needs to tighten down on the spline (it was loose and sliding when I got the car).  I believe I found a product called Loctite for splines or something like that, tightened it correctly, and my problems were over.  That yoke is rare and expensive today, you don't want to break it.

Ken D.

Yeah, get a used yoke to replace yours. I may have one, but will be sometime next week before I can even look. I'm sure you can find one for under $100. Count the splines on the pinion shaft just to make sure, but I believe all 58-65 yokes interchange.

If you can't find a replacement then you have to change the rear axle out.

I have a spare and plan a Ford rear.  If you are still in a bind in a couple months, PM me and I might be ready to sell it for a fair price.