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does not shut off

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2017 at 7:46pm
Ok, i looked over what may cause self excitation of the alternator. Here is a simple test. With engine off and key is off, disconnect the orange wire from the alternator. It Is your sensing wire for the bulb and regulator. Put tape around the connector to make sure nothing metal comes in contact for good measure. Turn the ignition key to accessory and then on, while looking at the charging light on the dash. Normally it should light up, but if it stays off, the positive rectified diode is shorted, thus allowing self excitation by not isolating field from battery. This can slowly drain the battery after sitting. Hopefully is Is not the case, but it would allow your engine to run.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401harry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2017 at 7:46pm
Sounds like an ignition switch to me but Is this a under the cap crane module on the stock distributor? I have had no luck with those conversion modules including a 72 I once owned maybe because i was using the stock resistance wire feed? For that car and my current 73 Matador I used the the anti dieseling solenoid wire for power to my DUI HEI on my 73 Matador which is the large yellow wire coming from the firewall and comes directly off the switch at a full 12 volts and never any problems and then switched to a Mallory Unilite and also no problems.  I have a Crane fireball ignition going in with the new 401 and will use the same power supply.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2017 at 8:01pm
Originally posted by 401harry 401harry wrote:

Sounds like an ignition switch to me but Is this a under the cap crane module on the stock distributor? I have had no luck with those conversion modules including a 72 I once owned maybe because i was using the stock resistance wire feed? For that car and my current 73 Matador I used the the anti dieseling solenoid wire for power to my DUI HEI on my 73 Matador which is the large yellow wire coming from the firewall and comes directly off the switch at a full 12 volts and never any problems and then switched to a Mallory Unilite and also no problems.  I have a Crane fireball ignition going in with the new 401 and will use the same power supply.


Yep, the igntion wire is the problem for most devices to control spark. There should not be any resistance on a voltage going to the electronic ignition module pf any type. Unless it is specifically stated in the directions that it is a dorect factory fit and does not require additonal wiring.

I also used the yellow wire from the anti - dieseling soleniod as well for my electric choke on a Holley.


Maybe I am stickler, but I would rather put the power lead to the electronic ignition coming off a relay controlled by the I terminal of the solenoid and secure the ignition wire from being used and out of the way. The relay can mount near the starter solenoid and be fairly clean with installing. I see no need for a kill switch with that setup unless you are racing all the time. To add a kill switch to the relay, just put it inline with the feed from the I terminal to activate the relay. The kill switch would be a momentary off switch or button.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matty 401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2017 at 7:24am
this unit just attaches to the coil and it is the under cap style with a stock dist i am running a 94 amp single wire alt also 
72 matador 401 the beast
79 concord 2 door
72 matador 304 grasshopper
68 Rogue 406
93 Cherokee 4.0 5 speed

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2017 at 9:18am
Originally posted by matty 401 matty 401 wrote:

this unit just attaches to the coil and it is the under cap style with a stock dist i am running a 94 amp single wire alt also 


You did say you obtained a new ignition switch, i assume you will be installing it soon? Hopefully that will be your issue.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matty 401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2017 at 2:09pm
yes picked it up yesterday  been working in my garage  so maybe tomorrow 
72 matador 401 the beast
79 concord 2 door
72 matador 304 grasshopper
68 Rogue 406
93 Cherokee 4.0 5 speed

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2017 at 4:09pm
Did not read entire thread.
When I put an MSD 6 Box and a UniLite Conversion in my stock Distributor, I also had a run-on after ignition was turned off.  Using the MSD instructions, I "cured" the problem by installing a Dual Ballast Resistor as shown in this diagram ( on a '69 AMX )  The single Ballast Resistor in the Diagram was to make it all work correctly with the Stock Tachometer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matty 401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2017 at 6:37pm
got the new switch in  it shuts off so far  lol
72 matador 401 the beast
79 concord 2 door
72 matador 304 grasshopper
68 Rogue 406
93 Cherokee 4.0 5 speed

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2017 at 6:48pm
Originally posted by matty 401 matty 401 wrote:

got the new switch in  it shuts off so far  lol


Well, considering how long you were able to run before the trouble, i can see why changing something you know had worked for something questionable, like the switch.

If your system was stock, i would have kept on the ignition switch being sticky. Well you may never see it happen again. One of them odd things, as usually they just go bad and not start or fail to connect power.

Great to see it working out for you.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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401harry View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401harry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2017 at 7:52pm
Originally posted by matty 401 matty 401 wrote:

got the new switch in  it shuts off so far  lol


One thing i remember is i had a problem in my Matador is that I replaced my original switch even though it was still good and noticed the new ones arent as high a quality as the old ones. Plus I had to get under and re tighten the tiny screws that hold it to the column cause the new one was tighter and would move the switch back over over time where I coudnt get the key position back to off.... I also had to cut a portion of the switch plate near the bottom to clear the brake light switch as it is tight on these cars. Must only be trouble because its a GM part I guess
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