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Do you think I might need new valve guides?

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wittsend View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wittsend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/20/2020 at 5:36pm
Right, and the Lifter should be taking an overwhelming majority of the side load of the cam ramp, not the valve. Which leads me to ask, how are the lifter bores???
'63 American Hardtop
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/20/2020 at 10:53pm
Originally posted by wittsend wittsend wrote:

Which leads me to ask, how are the lifter bores???

I hate it when people ask reasonable questions!

Lol, I just wrote to the guy who gave me the stuff. I'll report back.

1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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Ollie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ollie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/21/2020 at 8:12am
Originally posted by PAGAENT PAGAENT wrote:

Is it possible that the valves have 11/32 stems in 3/8 guides? Dr. Faucci probably couldn't explain how the guides could wear like in the pictures.

You rolled me outa the chair on that one !!!!    Handshake

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1966 American Convertible -- "The Rambler"..SOLD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/22/2020 at 12:57am
OK, there will likely be no answer. What I received was a collection of parts from as many as three motors. They are AMC flathead valve guides, AMC flathead valves, so they did wear that way, but there's no way a stock setup did that. No engine I've ever seen doesnt have some sort of contained cam follower.

The machine shop cleaning the block and head said the block has seven cracks. Lol. So tomorrow I go pick up my new coffee table base. BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD. I'll find another flathead candidate and try again...

1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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bigbad69 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/23/2020 at 5:55pm
Seven cracks, blower, what could go wrong?
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2018 300 5.7 - daily driver
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1969 BBO Javelin 390 T10 - my neverending project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2020 at 9:44am
That thing was probably run hot SEVERAL times... and I mean HOT!! When I was a kid I ran my first one so hot once that it wouldn't run going down hill in gear (straight drive). I was planning on rebuilding it and had a spare, so it didn't matter... then. Ran hot due to a leak in the radiator, not engine issue. I went back the next day with a friend to tow it home and the darn thing cranked right up!! Drove it another 2-3 weeks before pulling the engine, and rebuilding that block. That was in 1980. The guides were worn but knurled instead of replaced. Had about 180K on the engine.

The only possible explanation I have for the guides is that they were worn, knurled, then wore through that. Knurling just raises material inside the guide in a cross hatch way, so no more than 50% of the material is raised and contacting the valve stem. Wouldn't last as long as a solid guide, but was effective enough back in the day when guides and the machine work to replace them were more costly. Some old machine shops (like the one I used) were still doing that as late as 1980, obviously, at least on older motors. So those guides could have been knurled at one (or more?) points and the knurling worn out.
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wittsend View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wittsend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2020 at 1:10pm
I just used a knurling tool a few months back. As stated it raises the metal in a fashion similar to the way a tap cuts threads. However, what I thought was a cutting reamer turned out to be a straight fluted, non-cutting tool that basically forced the projected peaks of the thread to the desired size.

  For someone like myself who "refurbishes" rather than rebuilds my old cars it is a cost saving method. I mean I only drive to Cars & Coffee twice a month and I have six old cars. That is four trips per car a year, 10 miles round trip (40 miles total). Throw in 60 miles for incidental driving and any of my car sees maybe 100 miles a year. I just can't see spending $100's of dollar that I will never get a return on my investment. You take a beater classic to an event and people say, "It will look great when you get it done." But do you try and make the car to the best of your ability and it gets nit-picked apart.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2020 at 9:45pm
Originally posted by bigbad69 bigbad69 wrote:

Seven cracks, blower, what could go wrong?

I know, right?! IT WILL BE FINE.
1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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