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DIY Extra Capacity Oil Pan |
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Hurst390
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/20/2008 Location: secret Status: Offline Points: 5818 |
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SC/Hurst Rambler
11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
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401Ambo
AMC Nut Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 307 |
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I had built a pan for my wagon some years ago based on this Canton pan.
The front is one inch lower and wraps around inside the pan to form a scrapper. This Canton pan is now on my AMX. My welds (mig) aren't as pretty as Hurst's, but it worked. It's kind of hard to see the kick-out in this pic, but it's there. |
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'72 401 Ambassador wagon
'69 pro-Street AMX AMX/2 (starting soon) |
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bigbadgreen
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/07/2009 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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I have one somebody modified.has the external oil lines.I don't need it.looks like a nice job though.
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Hurst390
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/20/2008 Location: secret Status: Offline Points: 5818 |
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My last pan I made wider to serve a similar purpose. |
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SC/Hurst Rambler
11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
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Rebel Machine
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5122 |
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I looked up the build on Hurst390's pan he posted on the other AMC forum some time ago. I believe that pan was for his dirt track car.
Originally for this engine I just wanted a pan to clear the windage tray, if the stock pan would have cleared I'd have used it in stock form. I like the Canton pan so I'm going to use it as a basis for this project but there are some differences I'm going to have. First, the front of the Canton pan's sump is vertical so it has trouble clearing the engine cradle when installing the engine in a vehicle. I'll use the slant the original pan has. Second, the rear of the Canton pan's sump is also vertical so it's impossible to install the lower two transmission separator plate bolts from the front. Had to use set screws installed from the back side into square nuts on the engine side. I'll slant the rear of the pan so there's clearance. Third, the Canton pan has the walled off center and spring loaded doors for road racing. I'm probably going to stick with the original baffle. -Steve- |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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I MIG welded my gas tank (made my own) with no issues, using a cheap 110V MIG welder (true MIG with gas bottle though, not flux core!). I made overlapped seams though, not butt welded seams.
If unsure of your welding (easy to get pin holes), clean with mineral spirits/paint thinner/brake cleaner then smear with a good oil proof epoxy (JB Weld, etc.). That takes care of any possible pin holes. I did that where my fill tube enters the tank since that is not a lapped seam -- hole in side with piece of exhaust tubing stuck through. Don't think I put epoxy on the other seams, but may have... I built the tank back in 2006. |
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Frank Swygert
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White70JavelinSST
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
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Please, a word of caution. DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER and then weld.
Burning most brake cleaners creates Phosgene gas, very poisonous. BREATHING THE FUMES OF BURNING BRAKE CLEANER WILL EITHER KILL YOU OR DISABLE YOUR HEALTH. Sorry to be so forth right on this but it is a concern. I was lucky I found this out the easy way, by reading it. Don't you find out the hard way please. Armand |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Most brake cleaner evaporates quickly, and should pose no danger. I'm talking about the spray can type. I wouldn't weld with the surface still wet, as it's flammable, same with paint thinner and mineral spirits. But I did some searching. Seems it takes just a drop or two to create a small puff of phosgene gas when heated at high temp (such as welding or cutting torch), and that's enough to have lifetime effects if breathed in. So read the labels! If the brake parts cleaner contains tetrachloroethylene, perchloroethylene, chloroform, or methylene chloride don't use it to clean before welding. Paint thinner, mineral spirits, or alcohol work just as good and don't create poisonous gasses. I'm definitely going to stop recommending brake parts cleaner for general cleaning.
http://www2.worksafebc.com/i/posters/2013/ws_13_09.html Read this... it makes the danger very clear!! http://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html I knew a little about phosgene from military training and military history. It was used in WWI by both sides. |
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Frank Swygert
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Rebel Machine
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5122 |
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Thanks for the heads up on the brake cleaner issue.
Got the two halves MIG welded together today. Not very artistic but not to hideous either. Bolting it to a block kept things from warping, it sits perfectly flat against it. Welded some sections then unbolted it from the block to tap the halves in line with each other a few times. Could probably use it as-is. I'll bend up a sump and see how it looks. -Steve- |
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one bad rambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2008 Location: On The Island Status: Offline Points: 2007 |
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68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8
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