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DIY Extra Capacity Oil Pan

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Rebel Machine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: DIY Extra Capacity Oil Pan
    Posted: Nov/25/2015 at 2:21pm
I'm toying with the idea of modifying a stock oil pan into an extra capacity pan. It probably won't be difficult, just time consuming. Got a Canton pan on my AMX and I like it but they're spendy. Figure I can make one that will be adequate and cost effective.

Need to make it clear my windage tray which requires another 1/2" depth in the shallow end. The sump depth isn't as critical as long as the pickup tube has the right clearance. Probably go with 8".

Sump baffling is another consideration. The Canton pan has the spring loaded doors and the stock pan only has a hole big enough for the pickup to fit through.

The Canton pan is also at right angles in the front and rear which makes it tricky to place in the car. I'd like to slope this pan a bit front and rear to make it easier to install.

Anyone have some tips on making this modification?

-Steve-

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Bubblefender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2015 at 2:31pm
I was the primary welder on our oil pans when we were selling extra capacity in 2002-2003. Then I went through 14 welders trying to do the same leak free welds with zero burn through. Couldn't get enough of them made and no time to do all the welding myself the product was ultimately canned. You can tig which is the best method. Once your done the rear seal area will kick in and will need to be forced outward. With Mig your chancing burnthroughs unless your really good...REALLY good with thin sheetmetal. And with the extra heat MIG will really distort the pan. We used a flat plate fixture simulating the block bottom and bolted the pan to the plate. And both should be leak tested. We used mineral spirits and fine particulate to find any leaks. Surely can be done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a401classic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2015 at 3:12pm
I made a 9 qt pan from a stock unit for my boat.  The extension and extra volume were all 16 ga stainless all below the factory baffle.  Make sure ALL the old oil is out. Bake it if you need to. Or take it to a machine shop and have it hot tanked.  All TIG welded with full back purge.  Got done, put it on the motor and Doh!  Forgot to allow for the starter!  So make sure you do a full mock fit before cutting and welding!

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Ken_Parkman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken_Parkman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2015 at 3:59pm
I've done several over the years. The first one was a total distorted mess. Took a lot of work to make it fit and a lot of silicone to make it seal.

A few more tries and same learning and not bad now. I use a scrap block as a fixture and bolt it down solidly for as much welding as possible. Design your bends on the sheet metal to minimize welding which reduces both distortion and leaks.

I use a MIG and 16 gage, and do some careful fitting to make neat weld joints.

As Matt says they are distorted some, and I use a hydraulic bottle jack and some mcgyvering with a press and the total thing comes out pretty good.

It does end up dirt cheap, but there is a lot of time involved. Last one I just bought a Canton.
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Rebel Machine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2015 at 4:29pm
Originally posted by Ken_Parkman Ken_Parkman wrote:

I use a scrap block as a fixture and bolt it down solidly for as much welding as possible.


That's a thought I had too.


Used two pans to get the depth that will clear the windage tray. Now it's a matter of how big to make the sump.

-Steve-




Edited by Rebel Machine - Nov/25/2015 at 4:41pm
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Hurst390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2015 at 5:05pm
Send it to me ill weld it for you for free if you pay return shipping
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2015 at 5:14pm
I just removed the tray and used a dolly and hammer to make the inny into an outy on the back sump of the pan, then re-installed the tray. Up and running it now takes 6 l or 6.3 quarts. No issues with the plug.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghinmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2015 at 5:32pm
There was a fellow, Larry Keoman.  I forget where he was out of but he made pre-bent weld on sumps for AMC pans.  I bought one from him, cut up my pan, and welded everything up.  Didn't warp and it was thick enough material that I didn't have any problems welding it.
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Rebel Machine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2015 at 7:08pm
Originally posted by Hurst390 Hurst390 wrote:

Send it to me ill weld it for you for free if you pay return shipping


Thanks for the offer but I think I'd like to make this thing and see how it turns out.

-Steve-

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/26/2015 at 7:27am
I like to tig weld mine with silicone bronze filler just like headers. That way any weld on the backside flows out nice and doesn't leave a big slobber inside.
btw bolt it to a block when you weld it.
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