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Distributor orientation quick check |
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67 Marlin
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/21/2015 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 877 |
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Posted: Jul/19/2019 at 12:32pm |
Think I'm right about this, but never done this before, so looking for confirmation so I don't muck up anything. I want to orient the distributor so that the vacuum advance canister is pointing where I want it. My thought is that I can pull the distributor and put it back in any desired orientation, so long as the rotor position is relative to the same position on the housing (and the respective plug wire tower) that it was before I moved it. I want to do this because the nipple is pointing at the cooling bypass hose, and so the vacuum advance hose needs to be bent and then wrapped around the bypass hose. I just want to re-position it about two inches so that it would be right underneath the arch in the bypass hose so I can have a straight shot with the vacuum advance hose. Good to go?
Edited by 67 Marlin - Jul/19/2019 at 12:39pm |
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6909 |
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Not quite.
The distributor cap is keyed to the distributor housing so yes you can move the distributor to anywhere, but you have to change the wiring to keep #1 ... in there same firing position. I will put #1 in it's firing position, take a picture or make a reference mark to something other then the distributor, remove the distributor, re position the distributor but keep the rotor is pointed to the reference, pull the wires and start the new #1 position. Then check timing.
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67 Marlin
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/21/2015 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 877 |
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Wouldn't keeping the rotor in the same position relative to the #1 plug wire tower (at TDC) maintain the firing position? If I re-position the housing and cap, but not the rotor, wouldn't that throw everything off by a few cylinders because the rotor would be pointing at a different wire's tower? Assuming you're saying to re-wire the plug wires to the towers for a new #1. If so, why can't I just move the whole thing, keep it synced up (with #1 plug wire still going to #1 tower, with rotor pointed at #1 tower)? I don't understand why the motor would "know" the difference.
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6768rogues
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6241 |
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I would start with the rotor in the #1 firing position. Then you can do anything you want to do as long as when you are done the rotor is pointing to the position on the cap where you have the #1 wire connected.
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5926 |
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Yeah, uh, don't even have to pull distributor do you?. Loosen clamp, rotate the distributor body so that
the next cap post now aligns with the rotor button, and move all the wires around the cap 1 post. If there is room for the vac can to swing around that is. That would work would it not ?
Edited by PHAT69AMX - Jul/19/2019 at 2:26pm |
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turbo
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/26/2008 Location: chicago area Status: Offline Points: 2568 |
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yes it would
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they call me Capt RETIRED!
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67 Marlin
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/21/2015 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 877 |
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Yes, sounds like what Trader was saying. Figured I could pull it and drop it back in quicker than playing plug wire switcheroo, and avoid mixing up a plug wire. And, it's 12 degrees advanced, so the rotor isn't pointing 100% at the #1 post, so unless I re-timed to O at TDC, indexing it like this might not be precise to a couple degrees. Figured I could leave the timing as is, mark the housing lip with a chalk line on each side of the rotor's button, pull and drop, and if the button seats between the index lines when repositioned, bingo, same exact timing as before.
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6909 |
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Yes PHAT you can just rotate and keep #1 or any of the cylinders that the rotor is on in the firing sequence by moving the wires.. The only reason to pull the distributor is if you cannot rotate it to the position you want, which is usually the case because it's the vacuum advance you want some were else. I just assumed and should not.
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67 Marlin
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/21/2015 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 877 |
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Upon further review, looks like my plan to go between the arch in the bypass hose won't work. The original position was with the canister facing toward the power steering pump. I could rotate pointing toward the fan and use a u-shaped piece and connect it to to a hose leading to the carb. But, for now, no rotating for me. Thank you all for the input. This is a B26 can that PHAT mentioned in a distributor thread that used to be a sticky. Like I said, thank you all for the input! The Forum strikes again! |
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5926 |
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Looking nice under the hood !
This little idea may help with your Vacuum Advance Hose routing at the Vacuum Advance Canister end.... I got some of those Soft Rubber Vacuum Elbows at the parts store and found one that fit snugly inside of the Vacuum Advance Hose with some patience and judicious persuasion... |
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