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dist gear shim

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Hurst390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 5:33pm
Loose end play always here


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 6:18pm
I remove some of the end-play and have never had an issue, however, there are other variables at play here - would they have been eaten anyway? It is possible it wasn't your shimming out some of the end play that did it? Less end play, as long as you don't take out so much thermal changes cause a bind, should cause no issues - unless of course you shift worn areas into unworn areas and so on...... perhaps the gears would have gone south anyway.
Are you SURE it was the removal of some of the end play that did it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 7:24pm
How much play do you have?
You need a bit to allow in oil.
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Bill F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 7:54pm
Remember they are bevel gears designed to run at angles to each other. The forces when running should set the gear where it needs to be. I'd be careful changing the shims.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 8:20pm
But since all that is happening is removing some of the play, there's no reason it should "eat gears".
If the range was up .010 and down .010 and all you do is narrow that, you aren't introducing any new part of the gear to the other gear.
Now if you made the play LARGER it could move into unworn areas but removing play unless you made it tight as things heated up there's no reason.

No angle is changing - it's moving up and down within a range as it is, you are simply narrowing that range.
My bet - unless there was no play left when it got hot,, it wasn't the act of removing excess play - it was something that was going to happen anyway, but was being blamed on taking out some of the play.
The gears were already touching in that range, the range just got a bit smaller.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jcisworthy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 8:37pm
I shoot for .010 end play
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 8:50pm
That's about where I go with 'em. Never a problem. 
I use regular machine shims.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 10:24pm
TSM has spec.
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Lyle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 8:31am
The distributor gear will get "eaten up" if you shim the distributor shaft down so when hot there is no clearance with the oil pump shaft. The distributor gear is the weak link.
There is suppose to be at least 0.010" between the top of the oil pump shaft and the distributor shaft were they will interfere, not the engagement, to allow for thermal expansion.
If the distributor end play is too large the timing will "float" excessively. Picture the shaft riding up or down a slope and how the rotor will move - it has to rotate as it moves up or down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xspiriment Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 9:23am
Thanks for all of your inputs. There is a end play spec of.010 minimum. i'm going to set it for about .015 that should be good. I had an excess of .030 with a very worn shim so that's why I shimming it a little tighter. Thanks again.
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