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Disk Brake Conversion for '62 Classic |
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AfterhoursFab
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Joined: Apr/26/2012 Location: NJ Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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Topic: Disk Brake Conversion for '62 ClassicPosted: May/08/2012 at 5:33pm |
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Ok I might be beating a dead horse here but I'm in the middle of the Scarebird install and the recommended master (1974 Maverick) does not fit the car at all. The pushrod is far too long (stock AMC rod seems to fit tho), the ports are on the opposite side (outside while the stock ports are inside toward the motor) and the biggest issue: the bolt pattern is different so I couldn't use it no matter what.
What's the most common master to use? I yanked the brass out of the stock front port and didn't see a valve that everyone talks about, so is this master usable? I tried searching for the master but came up empty..thanks.
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pacerman
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Posted: May/08/2012 at 6:40pm |
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63 or 64 Classic master cylinder will fit, and has the ports on the correct side but it will only use two of the four mounting locations on the 62 Classic. I don't know if it will have enough fluid capacity for the recommended Scarebird calipers though. Joe
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farna
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Posted: May/08/2012 at 7:40pm |
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It will have the capacity. All drum brake AMC cars back into the 50s use a 1" bore master cylinder. The GM (and Bendix) 2.6" piston calipers also use a 1" bore.
I seem to recall having a problem with my 61 American when mounting a new dual master cylinder in place of the old single. I think I filed the holes a bit so it would mount. A Hornet MC should fit. 72 or so should have the brake lines on the correct side. You will probably need touse the existing pushrod. Just make sure you're getting full braking power before driving the car more than in the driveway. If the pushrod is too short you won't have full braking power. If too ling the pedal travel will be reduced and the brakes may drag. |
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Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com |
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AfterhoursFab
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Posted: May/09/2012 at 11:16am |
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Ok then it sounds as if I'm dealing with a car thats been modified as this already has the dual resevoir master on it, and only uses 2 of the 4 holes on the firewall. Both front and rear port labels are cast into it, and has #28883 cast as well.
Edited by AfterhoursFab - May/09/2012 at 11:17am |
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pacerman
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Posted: May/09/2012 at 11:32am |
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1962 was the first year for the dual master cylinder in AMCs. Only Cadillac and AMC used dual master cylinders that year. Joe
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farna
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Posted: May/09/2012 at 11:53am |
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Right, and they used a Wagner master cylinder that has a screw in the center of the cap to hold it down. One of the brake lines uses a big flare nut with a small line to prevent mixing front and rear. When you switch to a newer master cylinder that line will have to go. Don't cut the end and flare it, just disconnect the line at the junction block and get a new one close to the same length from the parts store. You may still need an adapter at the master cylinder though. Parts store should have one.
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Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com |
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AfterhoursFab
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Posted: May/09/2012 at 1:19pm |
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Ok so...let me back track. The master I have is dual reservoir but does not use a bolt holding down the cap, it uses the rod/loop whatever you want to call it that swings up to hold the cap down. Is this master usable for the swap, or do I still need to get the 63-64 master? What would be the difference, bore size?
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farna
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Posted: May/09/2012 at 7:46pm |
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If the master cylinder you have is for drum brakes then yes, it can be used. Pull the residual pressure valve out of the front brake outlet. All AMC/Rambler drum brakes use a 1" bore MC and the GM calipers that Scarebird uses also require a 1" MC.
If it's for disc brakes it depends on what disc brake system it was made for. Technically you can use it even if the bore is bigger than 1", but it won't deliver quite as much pressure as a 1" bore MC would. So it will take a "little more leg" for the brakes. That might not be an issue for you, so try it anyway. It will stop good regardless. 2.6" piston Bendix (77+ small cars) and the GM calipers use a 1" MC, all others used a slightly larger bore MC (1-1/16" or 1-1/8"), |
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Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com |
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AfterhoursFab
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Posted: May/09/2012 at 10:17pm |
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Well I have no idea what its for, thats what I'm trying to find out ;) As stated in the first post, I pulled the brass out of the front port and saw no valve of any kind in there, so it seems as tho this master will work, so I'll plumb it up and see how it goes, and if it doesn't work, I guess I'll try the 63 master.
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farna
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Posted: May/10/2012 at 6:03am |
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I have had to tap the brake very lightly to get the valve out, but most of the time they just come out. If the front brakes drag a bit the valve is still in there, if not you're fine. Disc brake master cylinders usually have a large reservoir for the front brakes, a smaller one for the rear. Not necessary, they were made that way (most late model ones aren't)to "idiot proof" the system -- never check the fluid and there's still enough in the front section to last the life of the pads.
When you say "pulled the brass" I assume that's the tube seat with the little hole in the center of an inverted cone? If not that's why you didn't find the valve. That's probably what you pulled out though... |
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Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com |
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