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Debating oil mods for a 401

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73hornut View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73hornut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/08/2017 at 7:41am
The biggest head ache you will have related to oiling issues will be from the timing set. MOST aftermarket sets are just slightly better then junk and need work to make them right. Save yourself much stress and buy a Rollmaster set.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/08/2017 at 7:50am
I would just finish drilling out the main feed passages, switch to a ford oil filter and its required bushing(Mopar Part No.: 53007563AB

CONNECTOR-OIL FILTER) that the filter threads onto in your adapter...and a large capacity pan...all you need

Edited by Hurst390 - Oct/08/2017 at 8:01am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gremlinsteve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/08/2017 at 10:27am
Ok
So I've purchased the parts to swap to the ford filter
I've also inquired about a new oil pan. Not sure my stock starter will work though
Do I drill the small oil hole into the drivers side oil passage plug to feed oil to the timing set?
I have a good timing set also
I've seen the grooved main bearing saddle mod. I might do it
Or should I just run grooved main bearings
Or both

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/08/2017 at 10:49am
Originally posted by gremlinsteve gremlinsteve wrote:

Ok
So I've purchased the parts to swap to the ford filter
I've also inquired about a new oil pan. Not sure my stock starter will work though
Do I drill the small oil hole into the drivers side oil passage plug to feed oil to the timing set?
I have a good timing set also
I've seen the grooved main bearing saddle mod. I might do it
Or should I just run grooved main bearings
Or both



Fully grooved bearings, chamfer the crank journal passageways, check and make sure cam, timing gear set and front cam journal has proper machining. Don't bother with an oversized oil pan, your not building a race motor. Just have the engine guy swap out the nylon buttkn and weld a nut at the bottom of the oil pickup, to keep the pickup clear if the button should come loose. Adding an extra quart will not hurt and it will keep oiling from running dry.

There is a cam and gear set discussion about after market parts not oiling properly. Do not assume quality stuff will fit and function, even if it states made for AMC. Checking clearances and proper fit and function is part of a good builder. That is what you are paying for outside of machine work.

Edited by 304-dude - Oct/08/2017 at 10:52am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SKeown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/08/2017 at 3:38pm
Originally posted by Hurst390 Hurst390 wrote:

I would just finish drilling out the main feed passages, switch to a ford oil filter and its required bushing(Mopar Part No.: 53007563AB

CONNECTOR-OIL FILTER) that the filter threads onto in your adapter...and a large capacity pan...all you need

 I never switched to a different filter, but it's probably not a bad idea. When Hurst corp. converted 50 AMX's for S/S competition it wasn't long before it was realized that an additional 2" depth to the oil pan was needed to prevent oil starvation and blown engines. I've seen the Western Union first hand that called for that sent to AMC dealers.

 In an attempt to see more than 45 PSI hot pressure with 20/50 racing oil I tried everything including bushing lifter bores and saw no difference at all. That was until I fitted an adjustable pressure bypass spring, once I did that 70 PSI or more was no problem. I had tried different relief springs early in the process with no change either.

 Remember, I tried everything possible to enhance my engines oil pressure without any change until the increase in bypass pressure proved that much I had done was unnecessary.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/08/2017 at 11:33pm
one simple mod is cleaning up the oil passages in the back of the head smooth out the hole and area around the hole help aid in oil drain back to lifter valley and look around all the push rods a lot of flash from casting is in this area
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 Marlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/09/2017 at 9:16pm
Lots of good info in this thread. I remember seeing some of these tips in BJ Builds an AMC.

Here's what a forum member did to my cam and timing set to help make sure my rebuild will be oily in a good way.

For the Ford filter swap, is all that's required is the mopar part # that was referenced or is a different stud necessary for the Ford filter to screw onto?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73hornut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/09/2017 at 9:23pm
Originally posted by 67 Marlin 67 Marlin wrote:

Lots of good info in this thread. I remember seeing some of these tips in BJ Builds an AMC.

Here's what a forum member did to my cam and timing set to help make sure my rebuild will be oily in a good way.

For the Ford filter swap, is all that's required is the mopar part # that was referenced or is a different stud necessary for the Ford filter to screw onto?
Make sure, when you put the dizzy gear on the cam snout, that the end of the cam does not cover the oil holes through to the gear teeth.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/10/2017 at 6:08am
The deeper pan was for a full bore drag racing engine with the car pulling the wheels off the ground -- remember that!! For a good street performance/bracket race engine an extra quart in the pan is all you really need. That's what AMC specified for police/severe duty engines -- n extra quart in the SAME pan. The police pan has a rudimentary baffle which helps on hard braking, but that's all. The pan is large enough to hold the extra quart without fear of the crank hitting oil and causing it to foam. No other oiling mods are really necessary for a street/occasional bracket race engine. If you're running the dog crap out of it, like all-out drag racing, it may need a little help (like most other production engines).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillyBobsAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/10/2017 at 8:00pm
You mean the oil pressure relief was opening so you only got 45psi?
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