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Dang Car Refuses to Start! (AMC360) |
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Boris Badanov
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4210 |
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I had a 67 Ford Galaxy XL that bump started easily (only 10 mph) till I replaced the FX auto (Borg Warner clone) with a later C6 that would not bump start. Replaced the starter after that.
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Gremlin Dreams
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Bill_Martin
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/10/2008 Location: Madison, WI Status: Offline Points: 121 |
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Appreciate all the ideas fellas. I will go through a list of everything I've (we've) done to attempt to get it started. I'm starting to think, judging by what I'm reading that the plugs may just be toast after having been flooded more than twice (a lot more than twice lol).
Ran car, ran great...shut it off...15 minutes later went to leave, car wouldn't start anymore. flooded it in the process figuring like anyone...surely that will work! It obviously did not. Later that day my friend and I took the plugs out and let everything evaporate, cleaned the plugs (they were covered in fuel). Checked the spark, spark was there...didn't consider the points/condenser at that point. Then we checked fuel delivery...first with the fuel pump... working perfectly. So we changed carbs to make sure the carb wasn't just being crappy. 2nd carb resulted in no change. Came back the next week (when I posted this message) and decided maybe the spark wasn't strong enough due to the points being toast and that's why it wouldn't start but was willing to run before that until I shut it off one final time. So put new points, condenser, and coil (for the heck of it...original was still in the thing)... set the points, tried starting the car...it kicked over for just a second... discovered a linkage issue so I couldn't move the gas pedal... due to the riser I was using interfering with it's motion.... Took carb back off, adjusted riser. Tried starting again, likely flooded it a couple more times while trying to get it to start. After a week of sitting with the new parts in it sounded like it wanted to start, but when I couldn't press the gas pedal down due to the block from the riser I didn't get the chance to find out if it actually was going to. But, when we fixed the linkage the car went back to it's old not really wanting to do much of anything. we've tried dropping some fuel down the carb, tried throwing some carb cleaner down it as well. Never tried starting fluid. Didn't have any on hand and it's a half hour drive to town to get some and time was a bit limited. Anyway, that's everything we've done. I honestly don't think there's a timing issue, but my lack of knowledge in the area, I wouldn't rule it out. I know the plugs have been soiled a number of times now due to our trying to start it so many times and flooding them numerous times. The first day we never changed the points/condenser figuring the spark was fine...not thinking perhaps it was too weak due to them being toast. So, I'm sure they were probably already fouled before we were even getting a strong enough spark to start it in the first place. That first day it wanted to start on occasion, but just didn't have enough in it to completely start up. The next weekend, just the one attempt and then once the plugs were full of fuel again... nothing again. This is what makes me think plugs might be the answer. I sure hope so! :) I will not be able to find out until Saturday afternoon though, sadly! Thanks again everyone
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Bill Martin
http://drnoise.org |
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Rogue401
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/26/2010 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 1280 |
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It's hard to believe the plugs would get that wet that quickly. Is the inlet needle stuck in the carb or float too high? Too much fuel pressure?
How are you verifying there is spark? You need to ground the body of the plug to a clean ground or pull the wire off the plug and stick a screwdriver in the plug wire terminal and hold the screwdriver shank close to a good ground. You should get a nice blue spark 1/4-1/2 long and here it "snap". The main key is that it ran fine until you shut it off, so it's got to be something simple like a broken wire, bad ground, etc. I had a GM distributor where it would cut out erratically when it was revved up. It was the wire to the points was broken inside the insulation and sometimes would fail when the breaker plate moved. That's pretty common on the GM dist I've had. You also have to make sure there is a clean ground between the breaker plate and the condenser bracket and points and a clean ground on the coil. Also make sure there good voltage to the coil. 12 volts starting and 9 when running I think?? I don't see where you changed the cap and rotor. Is the cap carbon tracked? Sometimes that's hard to see and it's best to just change it with the best quality cap and rotor you can find. I've had cheap ones where the gap between the cap terminals and rotor contact was huge. But that's not something that would have failed instantly unless the old rotor button and contact just wore off completely on that long drive. I have had the cam timing skip on a GEN1 V8 when I shut it off. It acted like it was flooded when I tried to restarted it, and when it it start it revved and did a lot of damage. I can't see that being an issue here unless the timing chain was about ready to fall off. You can tell that by just trying to rotate the motor by hand with the fan or a wrench back and forth and watch the rotor like somebody else mentioned. If there's a lot of play, that might be the problem. Or as I suggested, bump it over until you get compression on the number one cylinder with your finger over the plug hole and check that the rotor lines up close to the number one plug wire.
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kidgrem
AMC Apprentice Joined: Dec/24/2007 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 116 |
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Here is an old post about coil resistance wires and coils.
If the coil is not marked, try the old one. The pionts system has a positive coil side resistance wire from the ignition, The wrong coil could give you double resistance. Most coils are marked has internal resistor or use with external resistor,most new coil have a internal resistor good luck from |
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348AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 4165 |
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You changed everything except the cap....so my vote goes to a bad cap.
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Boris Badanov
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4210 |
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Starter solenoid gone bad?
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Gremlin Dreams
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kidgrem
AMC Apprentice Joined: Dec/24/2007 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 116 |
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Bad ignition switch?
I recently had to change the ignition switch on the top of the column on my 1990 ford truck. Went to drive it one day and it would not start or stay running. The switch is almost the same as AMC. The retaining plate came lose. If I turned the key real hard the engine would hit, miss and sometimes start. Let go of the key, when it would start and it would die. Buypass the start and run portion of the switch. Hook a wire from the positive side of battery to the positive side of the coil turn key on try to start. If it starts you will have to pull the wire to kill the engine. |
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Purpleheart
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Did the neutral safety switch plug come off the tranny (it's on the drivers side of the tranny) ? Sometimes the wires break at the plug that go on the neutral safety switch . If the wires break or the plug comes off the car will not start .
Paul |
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Best time 10.38, Best mph 128.73, Best 60ft 1.38
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Boris Badanov
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4210 |
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Hotwire the dang thing and see if it will start.
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Gremlin Dreams
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348AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 4165 |
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Starter solenoid and nuetral safety switch would cause no crank conditions if they were defective/unplugged...it cranks but wont start from what I have read so far..switched carbs, fuel pump works cleaned plugs, changed points and condensor. The only thing he didnt change was the cap. I had that happen to a 70 impala with a 350...same distributor basically, went to a friends house turned if off and later on it cranked but didnt start. Changed points that looked bad..and it still didnt start. Changed the cap and it started on the first crank.
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