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Dairyland Fabrication Coil Over Kit on my 69 AMX

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343sharpstick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 343sharpstick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2017 at 10:55pm
Just did some weight comparisons.
Trunnion knuckle 50.3 oz
69 A-arm 68.1 oz
Trunnion and bearing 74.5
Total of 192.9 oz

1970 or later knuckle 59.7 oz
Tubular A-arm complete assembly with ball joint and rod ends 68.5 oz
Total of 128.2 oz

That's a savings of 64.7 oz (4.04 pounds) of unsprung weight per side.
I don't have a coil over with spring available to compare to stock spring and shock.



Edited by 343sharpstick - Dec/10/2017 at 11:08pm
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amxess View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amxess Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/13/2017 at 11:48am
I weighed a stock spring & KYB shock (about 14 pounds). QA1 coil over just under 9.5 pounds. So about 4.5 pounds per side saved, so with Sharpstick's calculations, around 8.5 pounds per side or 17 pounds total weight saving over stock.
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XRX744 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote XRX744 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/13/2017 at 10:55pm
Looking good! 

AMXESS, on the centerlink is that a 70 AMX/JAvelin specific part or can you use other years? I'm looking forward to getting my kit and want to add strength where I can. Also, where did you get your steering box?

I'll add in what the 13" mustang brake kit weighs in at tomorrow. The stock 68 Kelsey hayes discs are 40lbs a side!


Edited by XRX744 - Dec/13/2017 at 10:59pm
69 AMX, pro touring /track car, TEAM tribute, aka: "The Kenosha Corncob"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amxess Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/14/2017 at 5:56am
Curious on your Mustang brake swap XRX744. Is it an easy swap?
I got my box used from one of the NASCAR teams, though Lee and other companies make them. Think I just saw some listed in Jegs or Summit's catalog. They use the exact same Saginaw box, but the internals are so much better, and simply bolts right on. Just have to put your pitman arm on. Other than AN fittings, looks stock.
As far as the center link, 70+ larger cars -Javelin, AMX, Matador, Ambassador all use the same larger diameter bar. I still have a couple NOS ones for sale.
Yes, the K-H brakes are heavy, but I have some 74 NOS HD calipers, and they were the best braking units from AMC from what I can gather, and should dissipate heat well. I'll be leaving off the dust shield also for better cooling. Eventually was going with Wilwood's 6 piston kit, but Xmas depleted my play money for awhile and these will fit in my present 15" Rally wheels,& Wilwood large rotors wont, though do fit in other 15" wheels.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote XRX744 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/14/2017 at 10:04pm
Thanks for the upgrade info, I'm already finding what I need.   What ratio is yours and do you like it?

So far the swap is fairly easy, just collecting the right parts. I still need to get the adapter plates done and will probably get some extras made. They weigh 36 lbs a side. which means losing 4 lbs a side and gaining 2-3" in rotor diameter and almost twice as thick.

I'm not sure if you have the beefy strut rods or not, but the guy is going to be making another batch for AMC's after the holidays.
69 AMX, pro touring /track car, TEAM tribute, aka: "The Kenosha Corncob"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2017 at 5:04am
Greyhound is obtaining a new and improved strut rod kit for Mustangs.

I don't know who started the original design, but two manufacturers are making them. They are like my strut rod mod, but are machined spherical bearing shaped, using poly bushings, instead of steel. They fit like regular two piece design, so no mods are needed. Have yet to see what he sez about them.

If they work out, the only thing I recommend is measuring, after alignment, the distance from inner nut to un threaded strut rod, and cut the old rubber bushing sleeve to fit compressed by the inner nut, to fix-set the adjustment and strengthen the strut rod, as the weakest area on the rod is the inner threads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amxess Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2017 at 10:21am
I'm using a 14:1 ratio box which I like. I'm using the stock strut rods and have the poly bushings on them. Worked fine when I autoxed the car years ago (1st place in my class) and for track days. Didn't even know there were beefier ones available for AMC's. 

I also welded in sub-frame connectors that helped improve handling (unibody frames will flex as any high horespower drag race cars will attest to-a must for any AMC with high HP-saw my friend crinkle his AMX quarter panel after twisting his frame on a launch-now has sub-frame connectors.). I'm sure there are lots of other options to maybe improve suspension. I have an ADDCO rear sway bar I haven't even installed yet. A panhard bar may be worthwhile if doing hard cornering (I installed one on my SCCA ITB Mustang which helped)- don't think anyone makes these for AMC's, but an early Mustang one should be able to be retrofitted. . 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 343sharpstick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2017 at 10:45am
I cut up a Meier racing Mustang kit and fit it to my Javelin. It was a bunch of work. It turned out nice, and I do like it.
This is an older pic with the stock rear axle. Now I have a Moser-9 with 3.70 gears and rear disc brakes. But the panhard bar and rear sway bar are the same.

With the car on the ground the panhard bar is horizontal.


When I look back on this car, it blows me away how much it's changes from where it started when I first got it on the road in '09. While it's looks pretty much the same from the top, all the bits that connect to the underside have been changed at least once... Except for the ugly fuel tank.


Edited by 343sharpstick - Dec/15/2017 at 11:37am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amxess Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2017 at 11:41am
Nice Sharpstick! I see another product you can offer! Did you add that after the sway bar, and did you notice a big difference? Any problems with the ADDCO bar-heard the brackets come loose or need to be welded in.

Here's photos of the subframe connectors on a 69 AMX. I used to make these for the 68-9 AMX and 71-4 Javelins but not enough interest. 
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343sharpstick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 343sharpstick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2017 at 1:47pm
Ha, sure.
I can make lots of things for Javelins, AMX's, and Ramblers! Lower control arms (Early design complete, not enough time to buildEmbarrassed), Harness bar, panhard bars, shock tower braces, custom exhausts, and probably more. Problem is the AMC guys are both very frugal, and for the most part, prefer factory restorations, not so much pro-touring. Most of the racer guys seem to build their own bits anyway.

That said, the AMCr's I've worked with so far have been a great group, and I can't wait for next summer to have some AMC's mixing it up with more popular cars all around the country!Thumbs Up

If I were smarter I would be making parts for Mustangs and Camaros! I've always been a bit of a nonconformist.Beer
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