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cylinder pits, suggestions? Machine Shop report

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mcjarv View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcjarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2015 at 5:04pm
I agree with  SKeown,,,, those pits will fill in with carbon, I had to deal with stuff like that back in my boat dealer days and never had a problem.

Good Luck, Mike

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghinmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2015 at 5:40pm
Run it.  You won't notice the difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6768rogues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2015 at 6:51pm
Put a Chevy engine in it! Just kidding, don't do that.
You asked the machine shop for their advice, and if you trust them take their advice. If not, find one you trust. We are looking at pictures and words, they looked at the engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2015 at 7:30pm
Originally posted by scott scott wrote:

Try & find a single .030 over piston & ring set, & have them bore just that cylinder, rather than sleeving it. If you're looking to do it on the cheap.

Or run it as is, it won't be perfect, but it won't be the end of the world either.



I had a very sweet running Olds 455. When I opened it, it had rust pitting every bit as bad in one of the cylinders, but lower. Go figure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dogbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2015 at 8:10pm
My confidence level is not that high at this point. I was a little surprised they would say that sleeving one cylinder would deform the one next to it. Is that typical?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghinmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2015 at 9:14pm
Originally posted by dogbone dogbone wrote:

My confidence level is not that high at this point. I was a little surprised they would say that sleeving one cylinder would deform the one next to it. Is that typical?


It's a valid point.  If you were trying to go .030 for example and that one cylinder needed a sleeve, no big deal.  You'd be boring the adjoining cylinder round again.  But sleeving the cylinder and expecting the one next to it to stay round is asking a lot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2015 at 1:01am
You could probably remove the marks in that cylinder with a .030" or .040" overbore. I hate boring engines more than I have to, and it would be a shame to bore all the cylinders out that far just because of one bad one, so here are options I would be looking at:

Bore the bad cylinder as necessary. 327's can take up to .060" so you should be able to clean it up. Measure the taper and oval in the other cylinders. If they check out, ball hone them and run iron rings. If they are too out of shape, bore them .020". Either way you'll have one cylinder larger than the others but that is not a problem so long as you match all the pistons for weight.

Or...measure the taper and oval in the other cylinders as above and determine whether to ball hone or bore .020". Then sleeve the bad cylinder and bore it to match.

This is an AMC 327. They don't grow on trees any more. We need to save what block are still out there and save as much material on them as possible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2015 at 5:06am
It all depends on your budget.
 
I see nothing wrong with boring  and honing one cylinder .030 over.
 
If .020 over works and you can get pistons, then take it +.020
 
Sleeving one cylinder is ok, and there is always some distortion
in the block/cylinders.
 
If it were my choice for a daily driver, I like boring one cylinder .030 over  Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2015 at 6:38am
Late to the party but here goes:

1)  The scratches on top of the pistons?  Look like overzealous carbon removal with a scraper.
2)  Nitrous?  I'm not sure how stout a stock 327 piston is but I would have a broom and dustpan ready.
3)  Rust pits?  Where are they with respect to the piston rings.  First ring, second ring, oil ring?  They wouldn't really concern me but it's good to know where they are with respect to the ring travel.
4)  Gouge?  That would concern me.  But as one commented, we have photos, machine shop has block.
5)  Can it be run?  What is the piston clearance and cylinder taper?  If they are both acceptable, hone it, button it up and go.  If the pistons are sloppy and the bore looks like a cone, well, time to bring out the bar.
6)  Sleeving distortion?  Sleeving distorts the adjacent cylinders at the deck.  Is it a problem?  I've sleeved a single bore in more than one engine that suffered bore damage (rod let loose, piston pin retainer failed, etc.) and never had a problem I could detect.

Until I had some clearances and dimensions, any decision now is really based on assumptions and opinions, mine included.

Just my two cents.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dogbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2015 at 7:52am
FSJunkie, what would be considered too much taper in the bore? .003, .005 or maybe more?

You mentioned iron rings. They have them at Rockauto along with moly. They don't have any chrome. What's the difference? I'm guessing it probably came with just iron from the factory.

Is it possible the engine was bored .010 over from the factory for some reason? Would the block be marked somewhere?

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