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crankshaft rear main seal significant leakage

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WesternRed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/11/2018 at 6:44pm
My understanding is that traditionally the knurled surface is intended to work with rope seals and should not be required with a neoprene seal, but that is not how AMC did things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/11/2018 at 8:59pm
Yes, a rope seal was designed for the knurl. Single lip seals of buna and other synthetics were also in "most" cases designed for a knurl. If you have a compound lip seal of a modern engine or even a double lip seal designed for an older engine made out of viton, silicone, graphite embedded ... like a modern engine then Summit and Felpro state the knurl is not required, assuming your buying the correct seal, assuming they make it for your application 
 The stickler is the "crush or compression" on the seal.
So if you have an old crankshaft or new with a modern design seal with the appropriate compression - don't need the knurl.
AMC stock crankshafts with stock seal design (even compound) need the knurl - so it's all about the crankshaft you have and the seal you install.
No right or wrong, as long you know what your installing according to the manufactures technical documents.
Nothing seams simple any more! It just use to be get a gasket kit with seals included. An hour of reading and another don't really know. But it's important for people to ask questions when they do the work so they are not disappointed with the results.
Just - good luck everyone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SCRAGTOP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/13/2018 at 9:23pm
Have your crank welded. PERIOD. Stay away from flame spraying, thermal spraying or any other method of molten material blown onto the crank, because it isn't worth a crap. I used to do thermal spray repairs while I was on active duty in the Navy. Didn't like them back then, don't like them now.    You CAN NOT knurl the surface after applying the thermal spray, as knurling will peel the thermal spray right off. Weld the surface and your shop can just machine the surface back to the correct dimension in a lathe and polish. Then knurl the surface again. LIGHTLY… Its not a big deal. The knurling is for lubrication. NOT to "funnel" or "throw" or "re-direct" the oil back into the engine... Who comes up with this doggie doo? Geez... You can't run a rope seal on the surface of a turning shaft without lubrication. Its like pump packing. If you haven't rebuilt a centrifugal pump, then you don't know what pump packing is I guess...


Weld the crank. Machine back to correct dimension. Lightly knurl. Done.

Easy peasy...
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