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crankshaft rear main seal significant leakage

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tomslik View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomslik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2018 at 4:41am
just a thought but how about a rope seal? don't know what would fit but....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2018 at 8:44am
Originally posted by Hermie Hermie wrote:

Spray welding is aka thermal spray.  The reason I am asking the forum for help is exactly what you said: it is a "specialty job".   Please advise with the source(s) that you used.  Thanks.


Here's the company I was referring to. Don't think they do spray welding. Dunno if the submerged arc process might be more affordable and more effective. They're about 320 miles from Fargo. It's a very busy shop.

Z Machine
932 Main St,
Ocheyedan, IA 51354
(712) 758-3720


I did a google search for spray welding in Minnesota, this came up.  I have never used this shop. D
on't know anything about them. Might be worth a try?




again good luck




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2018 at 10:28am
And there is this shop closer to you:
Cannot vouch for their work or cost, just google "crankshaft repair", there are quite a few.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2018 at 1:00pm
and there's gotta be more shops that would do the work, and possible not so far away from Fargo too. There's gotta be a ton of tractors and trucks up there that need machine shops to fix cranks.

I'd go to one of the local machine shops and start asking....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hermie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/24/2018 at 2:42pm
Have found sources nationally that know how to flame spray material, grind to size, and do the knurling.  This should not have been such a problem to find shops to do this kind of work, as the big three incorporated AMC's knurling design into their crank rear seal as well. 

Marine Crankshaft Inc.
(P) 714-549-2388
(F) 714-549-1382
Email- cacranks@yahoo.com
2155 So. Grand Ave
Santa Ana, CA 92705

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/24/2018 at 3:08pm
Originally posted by Hermie Hermie wrote:

Have found sources nationally that know how to flame spray material, grind to size, and do the knurling.  This should not have been such a problem to find shops to do this kind of work, as the big three incorporated AMC's knurling design into their crank rear seal as well. 



Why don't you call up Federal Machine in Fargo and talk to them.  If they can't do it, I'd guess they'd know who does.  I think it is interesting that they would knurl the repaired area.  Must be using a carbon steel powder.  The carbide spray coatings I'm used to on pump shafts would crack if you tried that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/24/2018 at 5:36pm
Here is my one before and after repair for reference, they definitely did not want to knurl the new surface.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/26/2018 at 9:34am
The submerged arc process doesn't peel off when knurled because it has truly become the same as the journal.

If you think it necessary to knurl the surface after the repair, you may wish to have it welded using the submerged arc method. The method I've seen uses a wire feed machine.  The filler material was 7018 low hydrogen. That material is as tough as the base metal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobsterfl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 4:29pm
Hermie is right on regarding the "knurl" on the rear main seal surface, and the pictures provided by Western Red show what that looks like.  As I remember, the purpose of that directional "knurl" is to minimize the amount of oil that escapes past the seal.  As the crank rotates, the "knurls" help pull oil back in towards the crankcase.  I think any repaired surface without the "knurls" is going to result in more leakage than a stock crank with the knurls.

Secondarily, any engine with excessive crankcase pressure (piston ring blowby or inadequate venting) will surely result in excessive rear main seal leakage.

Sure hope you are able to save your crank!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/11/2018 at 6:27am
Yes the knurl is here to "pump" oil back into the engine. A club member near me had an crankshaft repaired and no-one noticed they knurled it the opposite direction. Well oil did pump out of the end of the crankshaft very efficiently.
The shop paid for the tear down and re-repair of the crankshaft, but not engine removal or the new clutch.
The wet clutch experiment was a flop!
Most industrial equipment just has a smooth shaft and oil seal with a shield as pictured above to stop oil flowing straight down the shaft. Mind you one piece seals. They are static pieces of equipment though and the oil is not thrown to the back as it would in acceleration. Only time will tell how well this will work.
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