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Coolant change - best way to get trapped air out?? |
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fast401
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Sep/16/2008 Location: swanton, ohio Status: Offline Points: 3467 |
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Jack the front up so the radiator cap is higher than the thermostat and leave the cap loose. Done this many times.
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Disturbing the peace since 1970!!! AMX 19245
Facebook page - AMC Nation www.fast-401.4t.com |
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73hornut
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Southern Oregon Status: Offline Points: 3130 |
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71 Javelin
74 Gremlin 79 Spirit AMX Rogue Valley Rumblers Like Us on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/1602825606650796 |
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AMXFSTBK390
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/22/2013 Location: SF Bay Area Status: Offline Points: 3489 |
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The procedure to evacuate air in the block is called "burping". I had to burp many engines after a rebuild or swap. Air gets trapped in the block and forms air bubbles when you fill the block with coolant. I have a steep drive way which works perfect when burping. I first park the car facing up the driveway. Then, raise the front of the car with my largest floor jack and jack it up as high as it will go. Then, remove the radiator cap. Start the engine and watch the air bubbles surface. Takes a couple of minutes. Done.
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Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox?
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ramblin64sw
AMC Nut Joined: May/31/2012 Location: SoCal Status: Offline Points: 274 |
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X2 Several companies carry these vacuum assist coolant fill tools. They work great on hard to fill systems. Cheaper than a cracked head. |
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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I have never had a problem changing coolant by simply refilling with the engine running, after of course you filled as much as it would hold with engine off, starting the engine with the heater on high heat and the radiator cap off.
As the engine runs and the water pump starts moving coolant around the thermostat will open. You can tell that because you will start to feel heat in the upper radiator hose. When that happens the engine will "Burp" so to speak and you will see the coolant level drop in the radiator because all of this time the cap is off. With in a few min. of this happening and you are now filling the radiator as it drops, it will take no more water. Done, it is, put the cap on and forget about it. Once it cools down check the level, if it needs a bit of adjusting, adjust it. AMC cars did not come with over flow tanks until late in the 70's. I always install an aftermarket one if it does not have an over flow tank. It is simple, mount the tank in a place where you can live with the looks and hook the over flow hose to the tank. The coolant will now stay right at the radiator cap. |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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george w
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/27/2013 Location: New Jersey Status: Offline Points: 2899 |
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It also helps to repeatedly squeeze the upper radiator hose when you're close to having the rad completely filled. This will help burp out the trapped air as well.
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Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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CR CRUISER
AMC Apprentice Joined: Aug/13/2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 166 |
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This! It worked for me while on the bench at the AMC dealership and still works.
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Lou Abernathy
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jun/20/2014 Location: N.C. Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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.........Following is AMC V8 specific...........
My cooling system Is now de-airlocked and filled..........Thanks go to all posters No easy way.....'specially if working in garage / shop (spills=bad)....and also thermostat installed To me, most important part was to have coolant in heads, for sure. Running with air in heads is begging trouble......maybe blown head gasket (?) I did a variation of "TSanchez"s method (see 1 post back) Variation uses thermostat bypass hose as way to top off coolant... going directly into heads. .......It's not really as hard as detail steps below might seem......... Method (moderately hard....not saying it's better....just another possible way):....... 1) Look carefully at bypass hose where it attaches to thermostat housing. You will be removing hose end here, and it can be trouble, if clamp is turned wrong. Also, you will be re-installing a hose end and clamp here. Not much room. 2) Buy a new bypass hose: cheap and availble. Or, alternative > You can use yours, but will then also need old section of 3/4 ID hose (1 ft +/-) 3) After draining old coolant, and closing drains: 4) Remove the old bypass hose end at water pump: OR, your hose at the thermostat housing. 5) Straighten old bypass hose upward as much as you can, and tape it to the oil filler cap (leave oil cap on tube): OR if using your hose, install an old 3/4 in hose onto thermostat housing You will be pouring coolant into this hose end (thru a funnel) so hose needs to be straight up 6) Install new bypass hose at pump end (only), and straighten it enough to tape other end to radiator hose. If using your hose, tape it to upper radiator hose. You will be attaching this end to thermostat housing. You need it now to prevent coolant coming out of water pump 7) Turn HEATER CONTROL to "ON"......Do not forget this step! 8) Fill radiator with coolant.......Stop when coolant is barely above tube ends (roughly 1/4th in.) 9) Leave radiator cap OFF. 10) Fit a funnel to top of hose attached to thermostat housing, and SLOWLY, very slowly pour coolant in. Do not rush pour, and hold funnel tightly into hose. Coolant will back up and spill. 11) Check radiator level often. When level rises, this means no more pouring at thermostat. 12) Hard part next: Attach hose from water pump onto thermostat housing outlet, as follows: 1st: For thermostat hose, drain hose into a small cup, and then remove hose. Have rag ready for spillage 2nd: Be sure to have a hose clamp slipped onto the water pump hose, and turn clamp so it will be easy to get to. 3rd: Attach water pump hose onto thermostat housing. Have rag ready....spillage likely. 13) Crank engine, check hose for leaks, and watch coolant level in radiator. 14) If coolant level drops to tube level, add coolant to about 1/4th inch high. 15) If coolant level rises to 1/2-in. or more, you could boil over: Place absorbant rag into filler neck, and shutdown engine. It took me one precautionary shutdown, which did NOT boil over. At next crankup, thermostat opened. Flow included small bubbles, but no "burps" You would need: a) new bypass hose.....or old 3/4th in. by 1-ft+/- hose, and clamp b) tools to fit hose clamps:....screwdriver....small socket c) strong tape...masking....electrical....duct d) funnel to fit 3/4th in. hose e) coolant f) ....patience.... Edited by Lou Abernathy - Mar/26/2015 at 6:28pm |
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Bill Mitchell
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/12/2011 Location: St Matthews, SC Status: Offline Points: 346 |
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The aftermarket makes a special funnel for this. It seals to the radiator opening and allows you to add about a quart of fluid above the radiator. The fluid goes down slowly and you might have to add some fluid as you go. When the system stops taking fluid you are done. Might take 15 to 30 minutes. The funnel has a seal so you can remove it with some fluid still in it. Summit sells them I think.............
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Bill Mitchell
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73hornut
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Southern Oregon Status: Offline Points: 3130 |
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Remove bypass hose from thermo housing, fill radiator, replace hose onto thermo housing, when coolant reaches thermostat, finish filling.
Edited by 73hornut - Mar/26/2015 at 6:27pm |
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71 Javelin
74 Gremlin 79 Spirit AMX Rogue Valley Rumblers Like Us on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/1602825606650796 |
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