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Control Freak subframe connectors?

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phast1 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jul/22/2018 at 12:25pm
Before going ahead with my 401 4 speed swap in the hornet, I figured it would be a wise idea to add some rigidity to the chassis. My main question is with the Control Freak subframe connectors is in regard to ground clearance. I'm running 225/50R16's on all 4 corners, so the overall tire diameter is on the small side, so even at stock ride height the ground clearance is getting a little tight. I'm wondering if anyone has experience having them on their car, and how much ground clearance it took away, and how it worked out.

Thanks!

Connor 
1972 Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2018 at 1:39pm
Best picture I could find. Because the tubing is rectangular they fit pretty tight to the bottom of the car.
We did slit the the floor pan just a wee bit to keep it all tight then welded the slits up. 




Edited by pit crew - Jul/22/2018 at 1:46pm

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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phast1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phast1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2018 at 4:45pm
Thanks! That's a great picture and what I looking for. They look good, just ordered a set. Once I get them I'll do a test fit and see if find it necessary to notch the floor pans like you did.

Connor 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2018 at 8:53pm
Originally posted by phast1 phast1 wrote:

Thanks! That's a great picture and what I looking for. They look good, just ordered a set. Once I get them I'll do a test fit and see if find it necessary to notch the floor pans like you did.

Connor 
No problem. Keep us posted on the progress of your project.

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2018 at 9:12pm
So, Ken - we know when you weld steel the back side is always prone to rust - in fact the back sides of welds will rust with a simple mist of water - you've fried all protection and natural oils off the steel.
when you weld channels like that how do you prevent the insides from rusting with a few years time?
I always treat floors very thoroughly and carefully and to the best of my ability after welding steel on a floor because I know it WILL absolutely rust around the weld area. 
How do you prevent rust with all those welds, especially in the frame channels, and those connectors?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2018 at 9:44pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

How do you prevent rust with all those welds, especially in the frame channels, and those connectors?
If you look closely at the picture you can see some runs of what look like light green paint. It is frame coating. It comes with a plastic extension tube and a 360 spray head. The inside of the frame channels and the connectors got buried with frame sealer. Then the shell was rolled over on the rotisserie and yet more frame coating was applied. The outside gets treated with rust encapsulator before finish paint is applied.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2018 at 6:17am
I use rust converter myself........... then seal it up with a coating or paint, etc. I like to kill the rust, not bury it alive. 

But that's me and my methods. 

Converter actually converts any existing rust into an inert substance chemically (using a substance related to tannin), encapsulator tries to seal it up but leaves rust active within the seal.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2018 at 7:59am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

I use rust converter myself........... then seal it up with a coating or paint, etc. I like to kill the rust, not bury it alive.
We also use the rust converter when needed.


Quoting Eastwood on their frame coating.

"This special aerosol spray destroys rust hiding inside the chassis so it doesn't rust its way through and destroy the frame from the inside out."


Edited by pit crew - Jul/23/2018 at 8:03am

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2018 at 9:20am
thats what weld thru primer is for.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2018 at 9:56am
"Weld-through" primer isn't going to protect the weld itself or the steel immediately next to the weld. It's fine for what it is and does, but certainly should not be relied on to stop or prevent rust. 
If you spray it on rust, the rust will still be alive and active. 
If you clean the steel to bare steel, prime then weld, you have the weld itself which is steel wire or rod, and the steel substrate which was melted to form part of the bond that will be unprotected.
You must deal with those areas - plus the steel that got hot enough to disturb the primer, etfc.
Weld-through isn't intended to be the final step in protection and does zero for the weld and adjacent steel.

On the floors I've repaired, I still had to treat surface rust, and prevent rust from forming AT the weld and the steel that got hot enough to allow fast rusting. 
I primed the floor after thorough cleaning of rust, used rust CONVERTER (totally different product than the so-called encapsulators) where there was any trace rust that I wasn't able to totally remove, primed with weld-through primer, then treated rust that may have been disturbed, then primed with self-etching primer, then painted - and underneath did pretty much the same then used undercoating. 

On my 70 we used rust converter (not encapsulator) and that was in about 2006 - and there's no trace or sign of any rust in 2018.

IMO, no single step or product will do what I want it to do long-term so I use multiple products.
In the case of these connectors, being basically a blind area after welded, I am not surprised, and glad to see he's sealing those up so that new steel should not rust. I would bet he's applying to waste, as they say - in other words, he's being generous. 

As always, thumbs-up to pit crew's work. 

So, when do I bring my 73 up for the connectors - since after I get the Cal-tracs put on my car will be under some different stresses.........
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