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Contour Electric Fan Install

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Greyhounds_AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 1:19pm
Originally posted by Ollie Ollie wrote:

I am not thrilled by the temp sensor location. The water at that location is the temperature of the thermostat and/or the water coming out of the block. The water at this point has done its cooling job.

To turn the fans on I would think you need the thermostat in the water coming into the block. That is to say the the lower radiator hose. 

If the radiator is cooling the water as it should you need no fans. If the water after passing thru the radiator exceeds 180 or 195, your choice, now we need to turn on the fans.

Just me. That set-up in The Rambler works great for me. Fan runs very little. No AC tho. 

Having AMC Fun,
Ollie


Ollie,

This question comes up alot on EFI forums as well. Engine temp is the variable we're trying to control, and the best indicator of engine temp is the temperature of the water exiting the block. The temp of the water out of the radiator won't tell us if the engine is too hot or too cold, as the fluid temp has been changed by the radiator, and the amount of change would vary with vehicle speed, fan speed, etc.

So current cars use the water temp exiting the block. The aftermarket stuff does as well though - here's a clip from the instructions for the aftermarket controller that farna has has good success with:




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jmerican Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 1:31pm
304 - you have some bizarre if not dangerous advice on electricity. I’m not studying this to hard, but you’ve got references to voltage drop on ac power tool cable mixed in with circuit boards, mixed in with 40amps on a 22gauge (dc app, with regular junk automotive wire. You say fuses can go anywhere in a circuit. You’re short circuited. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jmerican Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 1:37pm
you and that engineering toolbox are missing many critical factors, and both are borderline dangerous. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 2:02pm
We are talking 13.8 volt DC, some distance (more than a couple of feet to be sure). 
Up to 4 feet, 12 gauge will only do 35 at 13.8 volts which is typical with a running engine. 
10 gauge for up to 50 amps.

Recommended for a 40 amp load at 4 feet of wire would be 12 gauge, 10 much better to stay close to the 13.8 volts (keep withing about a 2% drop.



Edited by billd - Jun/23/2019 at 4:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 4:03pm
Originally posted by 6t8amxetc 6t8amxetc wrote:

I hope when you guys are through with your debate that someone can clean up this informing thread to make it a useful sticky!Wink


Don't worry - only the originals and factual simple basic information will go in.  In other words - the original post, maybe one or two others that relate directly (and that likely won't include mine up to this point! LOL  )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6t8amxetc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 4:06pm
Thanks...LOLClap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 4:21pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

Pdok the biggest thing I'd see would be perhaps MPG - on the highway you aren't spinning a fan. Perhaps low-RPM spin up to higher RPM because you transfer the load to the alternator. 
You can't say it takes less HP because fans take HP regardless - although these should be more efficient.
Otherwise if you take a fan and spin it with the engine it's going to take xx HP - spin the same fan electrically and it will still take xx HP - now though you are driving it electrically. 
So IF all things were even - a wash. But consider highway driving when you don't need to spin a mechanical fan - or for racing you can turn them off, etc.
CAFE numbers made a difference - being able to turn them off now and then ups your corporate CAFE numbers - like using thinner oil and other stuff. 

For most folks not sure it's any advantage - but for pure performance and trying to squeeze more MPG out or IN TOWN driving where you can't spin a mechanical fan, yeah, superior cooling (but idling now with high current fans will require a high idle-output alternator)

Can't diss 'em - just have to suspect they aren't for everyone - DEPENDING. I bet sitting in LA traffic, NYC waiting at rush, you'd be thrilled to have fans running cooling things. Do much highway driving, I can see there. 
Just my logic applied. 
I have zero reason at all to do it in my case - but one of these days, could be just something to do for kicks. 
my thoughts.  And IMHO the electric fans really dont help cooling on a car that had a mechanical fan originally.  When you have to upgrade the alternator to keep up..it takes HP to drive that alternator....so now you gain HP by taking the mechanical fan off..and now you have to upgrade the alternator and now you lost HP to drive that big alternator...hmm? But I know some people will not get it.   And I dont call myself an expert  on electrics...but..a 22 gauge wire has no business on a car...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73hornut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 6:31pm
I run 3 60-80a relays and a Saab 2spd thermal switch, for low speed, the power goes through the first relay then through the first single spd motor, then passively through the second relay through the second motor, to ground, this gives 6volt to each motor in series, so run half speed. For high speed, the second and third relays go to ground, grounding both motors giving full 12volts to each motor, in parallel. There is no resister. i have a relay that grounds the low side of the thermal switch, when A/C is turned on. Fans run of battery power on 50amp buss fuse, and switching power comes off the starter relay and a 40amp buss fuse. All of my wire is 10g. Well over 2 years now with this setup, not a single issue. My new contour fans for the Javelin, are 2spd motors, so wiring will differ slightly.



Edited by 73hornut - Jun/23/2019 at 6:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73hornut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 6:41pm
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

IMHO the electric fans really dont help cooling on a car that had a mechanical fan originally. 
Well, your mileage may vary, but it improved my cooling alot, over the fan clutch and shroud.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2019 at 7:08pm
Curiosity and to lay out the basics for those watching -
what issues were you having with your cooling (obviously there were issues if you say it improved it - it wasn't working to remove the heat)
and -
is the engine stock or "built beyond" stock?
And what else did you change - radiator?, other changes?/

I ask because if it improved that means you were having trouble with it not cooling - not removing the BTUs the engine was producing. 

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