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connection info for this cluster

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 8:11am
One more recollection... may not be for you, but since I had a 73 myself, there was a brown wire connector already installed on the fuse panel. It was folded over a few times with the connector out in the open, white taped to part of the wiring harness, between radio and instrument cluster. It may have been a factory change up for late 73, to ease in quick accessory change ups. Donno, as my car was just a 304 with A/C, auto and console shifter.

As for the red wire for the clock I do believe it was taped about midway to keep from dangling freely. It was not part of the wiring harness.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 8:25am
Pit crew is correct on the tach terminals.

I like to run a separate ground wire to the tach case, I prefer that over running all the grounds thru the PC ground.

I don't like using the amp gauge, not a fan of running all the power thru a 40+ year old gauge. I've seen too many of these clusters with horribly melted housings where the amp gauge terminals are.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 8:26am
Originally posted by scott scott wrote:

Pit crew is correct on the tach terminals.

I like to run a separate ground wire to the tach case, I prefer that over running all the grounds thru the PC ground.

I don't like using the amp gauge, not a fan of running all the power thru a 40+ year old gauge. I've seen too many of these clusters with horribly melted housings where the amp gauge terminals are.




OK, i will adjust my reply accordingly. Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 10:44am
Lyle - I was only partially joking on 9 volt battery - I'd bet we haven't had any in this house in at least a couple of years - not since I changed us over to newer wi-fi linked smoke detectors which use three AA batteries..

Ken - not sure if you can tell - but I found in the book where it talked about "washer color" - note that both washers are the same natural color, sort of a brown, with no other color. They look just like the insulating phenolic washers used on alternators - and the same color.
The terminal closest to the red wire has what I call a flat "spade" connector (learned that term in an old RadioShack book in the 60s and that's what my hobby books called them back then)
The other has only the washer, and a nut - and the stud sticking up.
So, red wire, then stud with washer, spade connector and nut, then stud with washer and nut.

Understood on the ground - I was thinking of doing that anyway...........

As far as connectors under the dash, behind the cluster-  the PO was a dope when it comes to electric - cut and taped wires, wires used for other stuff, hacked and butchered radio wires (actually, I'm not so sure there are any connectors left under the dash even for a radio)
There was a two-wire connector with black and orange and he'd hacked into that to power the radio or something. Never did figure out what the #$#%# he was trying to do. 
I removed the RadioShack AM/FM/FM stereo/Cassette player and am not sure but may go back with a stock AMC radio for now. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 11:07am

"It was long ago and it was far away, and it was so much better than it is today" Jim Steinman
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 12:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 12:35pm
To remove all doubt.
In order top to bottom.

Ground to cluster flex circuit board
ACC power (brown)
Coil neg (black)
Clock power (red).




Edited by pit crew - Apr/15/2018 at 12:45pm

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 2:25pm
That was my assumption based on the fact that the stud without spade was tall as if for push on connector. I removed the nuts and lock washers to look at the insulating washers better and both are the same exact natural color. So this makes sense. I found more small problems behind the cluster......more later.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 9:27pm
Originally posted by Lyle Lyle wrote:

This page has the 73 and 74, may help?


Hmmm, those aren't even as good as those in the TSM.
I have wiring diagrams, I do not have ACCESSORY diagrams - for clock/tach, the 140 mph cluster stuff, radio and so on.
That's what the TSM lacks - 
Ken helped as far as the tach.

I found out why there was no OP light - 
(I mean aside from the fact he removed the sender and put in a gauge with tube)
Once the cluster was removed, the fun began - gee, what's this yellow wire dangling here? Oh that's the wire to the middle of the oil pressure light socket - the socket center part broke.
To fix it meant taking parts from a spare dash light setup - and since the yellow is a common shared between the oil and ALT lights, I had to salvage both from my parts collection and remove the connectors from the shells and make a swap of sockets and the wire leads. So I removed the blue and orange wires from the connector shell, and the yellow that was common to them, and did the swap.
I made the short red lead for use from the clock terminal on the fuse panel to the cluster clock - but testing confirmed my fears - that clock doesn't work - BUMMER. Yet another car without a working clock. I'll hook it up anyway and hope for a miracle....... maybe the engine vibrations will make it work.
Now to make a harness to connect the tach. The ACC lead to the tach can be SHORT and push on. Since the car had a tach clamped on the column I may just use the green wire I have already connected to the coil.

I salvaged a cluster connector from some spare wiring and soldered a length of dark blue wiring, also salvaged from a harness, and ran that out to where the OP sender should be.
I'm going to have to go buy a brass T so I can hook up the light OP switch AND a sender for the gauge (sort of like the 70 has)

Undecided on the ammeter - may go ahead and wire that in, too - but will need to add a terminal block under the hood to handle that connection.   (not sure if I have enough of the right size wire - )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2018 at 10:01pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

BUMMER. Yet another car without a working clock. I'll hook it up anyway and hope for a miracle....... maybe the engine vibrations will make it work.
Bill,
Depending on how badly you want a working clock you can either send the tach to ISI and have them install a quartz conversion or get the kit and do it yourself. I have installed five conversion kits and considering your skills with wiper motors and alternators I think it would be a walk in the park for you. Either way now would be the best time to get it done before you put the dash back together. Personally I think the big body Javelin dash is the biggest PIA to take apart and re-assemble. Just my opinion after working on so many of them. 

http://www.clocksandgauges.com/quartz-conversion-kit.html


Edited by pit crew - Apr/15/2018 at 10:05pm

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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