Clutch suggestion 1970 390

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   With the comments about B&B versus diaphragm, any comments on this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Pac-01-026-Clutch-Kit/dp/B000CNM0LM/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=American%20Motors%7C66&Model=Rambler%7C5843&Year=1969%7C1969&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

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6PakBee Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Offline Points: 5458	Post Options Post Reply Quote 6PakBee Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/09/2016 at 11:29am
	With the comments about B&B versus diaphragm, any comments on this one? https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Pac-01-026-Clutch-Kit/dp/B000CNM0LM/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=American%20Motors%7C66&Model=Rambler%7C5843&Year=1969%7C1969&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
	Roger Gazur 1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach

ccowx Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510	Post Options Post Reply Quote ccowx Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/09/2016 at 12:00pm
	Very interesting! I might do a bit of research, as I get suspicious when something is half price. Thanks! Chris

Rebel Machine Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5121	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rebel Machine Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/09/2016 at 12:13pm
	It just hit me.... I think the problem I had with the throwout bearing wasn't the inner diameter of it but rather the area the clutch fork rides on, it was too shallow. My apologies for misleading anyone. -Steve-

ccowx Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510	Post Options Post Reply Quote ccowx Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/23/2016 at 7:31pm
	Looks like my car season got shorter, but my clutch options got better! I am in civilization for a few days and it allowed me to order a RAM clutch after all. I think the old school feel will be nice and I am hoping that it lasts longer than the LUK that was in there. I have a fairly sturdy left leg, but perhaps it is about to get sturdier! I will be picking it up in a week or so and driving (a long way!) back home. Once I get home it goes in asap and I will let everyone know how it went. Thanks all for the advice, it was all listened to. I needed an update on my clutch knowledge clearly. Thanks! Chris

mmaher94087 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/01/2008 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 1690	Post Options Post Reply Quote mmaher94087 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/23/2016 at 8:22pm
	I have always used stock application B&B clutches in my stock configuration AMXs. I never had a problem and the felt clutch pressure and the pedal was never a problem. The issues that I had with newly purchased cars was the lack of maintenance by the previous owner(s) (bad nylon bushings; no lubrication of linkage, worn parts, wrong parts and road grit in the pivot points). Once the parts were cleaned, lubed, replaced or repaired, everything was smooth, reliable and a joy to drive.
	Mike

amxron Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Nov/18/2011 Status: Offline Points: 295	Post Options Post Reply Quote amxron Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/28/2016 at 12:58am
	Stock 70 390's came with a 2200 lb b&b 10.5" clutch. I used Hayes 10.4" (actually for chev) in both my racer and street AMX's. Back then we ran 3200 lb w/o any counterweights, how things have changed! The 1969 input used the larger throwout bearing (the only year). Goodluck, Ron.
	AMXron Fleet/Jeep Mgr. Orbit AMC/Jeep 50-1787

ccowx Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510	Post Options Post Reply Quote ccowx Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/13/2016 at 8:41pm
	Update: The clutch is in, with a few minor issues. Here they are: -When we took it apart, it became apparent that the 68/69 TO bearing on a 70+ shaft has a bit too much play. The result is that in 8 years/12,000 miles it ate the front bearing cap all the way through where the TO bearing rides and so the cap came out in pieces. Not a part that is exactly available in the Yukon. Now I am stuck on a friend's hoist with a limited time before I become a serious nuisance! -Which brings me to the kind gentleman that owns a large machine shop locally and is also a very serious car nut. The owner of the business took about 2 hours out of his day to cut off the broken snout and press fit a new tube for the input shaft and throw out bearing. This cost me a very nice bottle of single malt, and well deserved. -Which reminds me, I called the technical line at Ram clutches and outlined the whole issue of <69 vs 70+ TO bearings. After rubbing antennas in the lunch room and calling me back, I was assured that the one in the 88499HDX kit would work. It is NOT and is for the older and larger clutch!! Sooooo, while I was imposing on the machine shop owner, I got him to make the new bearing surface to fit the older bearing, saving me a week or more waiting for the correct one. My justification is that PAS suggests using the larger bearing anyway. -At this point I have everything I need, and start putting it together. A small note, the idiotic ball bearing fulcrum and such is not a good system and pretty much eliminates the chances of this being a one man job. Fortunately, you can fish it out with a magnet if you lose it inside the bell housing! All that being said, the clutch now seems to work fine. It is actually not much if any stiffer than the old diaphragm style one, which surprised me. I will break it in for a few miles and adjust it again and see how it works. Thanks all for the input!! Chris Edited by ccowx - Aug/13/2016 at 8:44pm

mmaher94087 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/01/2008 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 1690	Post Options Post Reply Quote mmaher94087 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/14/2016 at 10:48am
	".. the idiotic ball bearing fulcrum..". I have two suggestions: 1). spot weld the ball bearing to the post. 2). Hold the ball bearing to the post with wheel bearing grease. Both methods work. The spot weld can be done with the post and ball out of the bellhousing then thread it back in - don't forget the spring retaining tab.
	Mike

ccowx Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510	Post Options Post Reply Quote ccowx Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/14/2016 at 11:01am
	That is exactly what I was doing, ie the grease. Bottom line is it needs an extra pair of hands that God and evolution has not blessed me with! Trying to hold the shift fork, TO bearing, etc in place while lining up the tranny is a bit frustrating. Not to worry, it is done now! In all seriousness, it just seems like a Mickey Mouse way to do it, probably cheaper than a proper hinge is all. On the plus side, everything is now properly put together and a bit if tweaking of adjustments to taste, doing well. Thanks! Chris