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Clutch Pedal/Linkage/Fork |
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GPat
AMC Fan Joined: Jan/21/2017 Location: Tampa Florida Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: Jan/28/2018 at 10:40am |
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Looking for some assistance/guidance regarding my 1970 AMX 390 with T-10 4 speed transmission.
I am in the process of reassembling my 1970 AMX after a full body and under carriage, suspension, rear end, brakes, etc. restoration. The motor and tranny have been rebuilt and are in the car. I've replaced all the clutch and shift linkage bushings, associated springs and installed a new clutch throw out rod (pushes the clutch fork - mine was not original it was a fully threaded rod and was longer than the one I purchased from Amark). Here are a couple of questions I have: 1) Is the clutch pedal suppose to go to the floor/firewall and then back up into the upright position with a push of my hand? Note: this is happening whether I have the linkage attached or not. I can push the clutch pedal towards the firewall with small effort, it depresses about half way and the Overcenter spring takes over and pulls it to the firewall. Also, works that way when I pull it back up (away from the firewall), the Overcenter spring takes over about half way up and returns the pedal to be aligned with the brake pedal, meaning all the way up. 2) The clutch fork that I installed, purchased from American Parts Depot, looks different from the one I replaced it with (the original is worn). The new fork is bent down, manufactured that way, as it comes out of the bell housing and is scraping at the bottom of the hole in the bell housing where the fork comes through. When I install the rubber dust boot around the fork and on the bell housing it hangs up and does not flow freely as it moves the throw out bearing. The fork that I removed is straight so I am assuming it would not hang up if installed. Any insight on either of these items, or both, is greatly appreciated. Thank you, Greg (user id = GPat) |
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Rebel Machine
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5121 |
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Yes, the overcenter spring will resist the pedal until it's overcenter (obviously) and push to the floor if the clutch linkage isn't connected to the fork & clutch assembly. When adjusted properly the pressure plate will push the pedal upwards until just past overcenter, the overcenter spring takes over from there bringing the pedal back fully upwards. Be sure to have the correct spring between the bellcrank lever and clutch fork or the clutch rod will fall out of the fork indentation.
The clutch fork should not scrape the bell housing window. The throwout bearing and pivot should keep it in the center of the window. Sounds like the pivot ball may have fallen off it's stud. Below is the assembly diagram from the '70 TSM. -Steve- Edited by Rebel Machine - Jan/29/2018 at 6:18am |
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rodhhrod
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/11/2010 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1040 |
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clutch fork could be a later one, they were a little off center, original straight.
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
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AMC used a number of different forks, and some are straight and some are offset in various ways. your new one needs to match the old one. as Rebel sez, the pushrod--->fork centers in the window, the play allows engine and trans to move around without putting pressure on the clutch fork.
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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GPat
AMC Fan Joined: Jan/21/2017 Location: Tampa Florida Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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All, Thanks for the responses and advice/recommendations. Looks like I'll be pulling the tranny back out to replace the clutch fork. Steve - the pivot ball is in place but the fork certainly is not riding on the stud pivot ball correctly. It seems like the pivot ball indent on the fork is too deep or oversized. The whole thing is off center all of the time, now that I've studied it more. Very happy for your replies, I truly appreciate it!
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Rebel Machine
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5121 |
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Just happen to have mine out. Snapped a pic for you.
-Steve- |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
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though it's all for an early rambler american, there's pictures of three different AMC clutch forks at the URL below. you gotta scroll down about 75%, to where it says... "CLUTCH FORK"
http://sr-ix.com/AMC/1961-Rambler-Roadster/transmission/index.html |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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GPat
AMC Fan Joined: Jan/21/2017 Location: Tampa Florida Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Steve, Thanks for the picture, big help to me. Your clutch fork looks identical to the one I replaced (straight with no downward turn as it leaves the bell housing), I still have the original/one that was there, but it's worn. Is yours the original or replacement? If it is a replacement, where did you get it from?
tomj, Great link to the tranny information with pics of the forks. All of this info is a huge help to me.
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Rebel Machine
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5121 |
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It's original to a '70 Javelin. -Steve- |
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Lyle
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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If you know your local Chrysler parts person well, they still have parts for Jeeps from the late 70's but have to spend time looking it up.
You can try Jeep parts suppliers like Quadratec ... or the usual AMC suppliers. |
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