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Clutch Noise Part II... |
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AMXrated
AMC Nut Joined: Jul/26/2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 290 |
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Thanks for the info. I originally had RAM B&B kit # 88772HDX (VERY stiff) and the TOB had the correct ID (although a little oversize, I thought), but it was very tight on the fingers of the clutch fork. At this point in time, I still had the original snout on the trans bearing cover and was using a new clutch fork I bought from American Parts Depot since the fingers were worn on my original fork. When I did my first road test, that is when the vibration problem started. My first thought was that RAM had sent a bad TOB in the kit so I changed it out to a Centerforce (#N1491) and repaired my original clutch fork and went back to it. Still same noise. I measured everything which checked out. I changed the plastic clutch linkage bushings out for bronze and had a new linkage adjuster made that pushed the clutch fork in a nice straight direction. I sent the clutch and TOB back to RAM to check and they said they were fine. SO, I bought a diaphragm clutch kit from Centerforce (DF271739) and another TOB (third one if you are keeping score...). Same noise, maybe even a bit louder. IDK, something is causing the TOB to vibrate/chatter as soon as it touches the clutch fingers. Since everything measures out correctly and I have replaced every part (except the flywheel and dampener) I think I have a weird out-of-balance issue that is not enough to shake/vibrate the engine, but enough to cause the TOB to chatter. I am out of ideas other than that. Jack
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You can have my Hurst shifter when you pry it from my cold dead hand.
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Offline Points: 5458 |
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Wow. The only thing I could think of to try is clean the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers. Then put a LIGHT coat of differential checking paste on either the throw out bearing contact surface or the pressure plate fingers. Then lightly contact the pressure plate with the throw out bearing and check if you are getting uniform contact around the circumference of the bearing. Your comment that the problem starts when the throw out bearing just contacts the pressure plate leads me to suspect a contact problem. I would doubt that it's unbalance of any kind. The diameter of the throw out bearing is just too small.
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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Heavy 488
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/27/2019 Location: In the Status: Offline Points: 3557 |
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I’d go with checking TOB ID and forget the balance idea.
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ccowx
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510 |
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fair enough, I know you have done a million things. The one thing I am not 100% sure has been done is that there are TWO bearing retainers and TWO different throw out bearings. You have measured the TOB's and said that they seem ok, but a bit loose. I would look up the inside diameter of the two bearings and also see which bearing retainer you have. The car being in pieces might mean that you have an early bearing might be either early or late. There could still be a mismatch. If you have done this, bear in mind it is my wife and I's anniversary and I have not been able to check back in every thread! Good luck, but I, and others, still say all roads probably lead to the TOB! Chris PS: The difference in inside diameter is a few hundredts of an inch, but it enough to cause the TOB to not function properly. You have mentioned "a bit loose" and it could be more significant than you are thinking.
Edited by ccowx - Jan/05/2020 at 3:24pm |
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6913 |
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If the clutch is engaging and shifting is good, the TOB "should" not cause a lot of chatter or noise. A miss-matched TOB and clutch fork will shift fine and make a lot of noise as the bearing is rattling the fork. Does your fork have spring tabs for the TOB? Or is there a spring behind the TOB? Just another thing to check.
Also you don't mention dial indicating the flywheel. If the crankshaft flange was not true, even slightly, then the outside of the flywheel will amplify this. Easy enough to check by removing the inspection cover and setting up a dial indicator on the outside of the flywheel and rotating the crank.
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scott
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Wildwood Pa. Status: Offline Points: 3502 |
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Have you put a dial indicator on the face of the flywheel, clutch off, & spun the crank to see what it reads? The base of the indicator on the block, the indicator riding on the face of the flywheel. To go along with what Trader mentioned in a post.
Edited by scott - Jan/05/2020 at 5:32pm |
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AMXrated
AMC Nut Joined: Jul/26/2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 290 |
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Thanks, I have not tried that test and will have to put everything back together first. I pulled the flywheel off to see what the part number was to make sure I didn't have a 304 or 401 flywheel on it. I will say that the wear pattern on the face of the TOB is consistent and right in the center. But that does not tell me if the surface is contacting the clutch fingers uniformly.
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You can have my Hurst shifter when you pry it from my cold dead hand.
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AMXrated
AMC Nut Joined: Jul/26/2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 290 |
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Thanks for the reply and congrats on the anniversary. Just to clarify, the ID of the first TOB from RAM I used had an ID of 1.325 which seemed big to me. The second (and third) TOB I am using now from Centerforce has an ID of 1.313" and I had the bearing retainer snout machined to an OD of 1.311" so I have .002" of clearance across the diameter (I think I reversed those numbers in an earlier post). Anyway, I'm not sure what the factory spec was originally, but .002" seemed fairly tight to me and should not allow for a lot of movement on the snout.
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You can have my Hurst shifter when you pry it from my cold dead hand.
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AMXrated
AMC Nut Joined: Jul/26/2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 290 |
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My clutch fork does not have spring tabs and there is no spring behind the TOB. Honestly, I'm not sure how they would attach to the clutch fork I have. Not sure I have seen anything like that in any of the assembly diagrams I've looked at. Is that something AMC included from the factory? Yes, I have indicated the flywheel and checked concentricity around the perimeter and flatness on the clutch side. Seems to be within and few thousands in both directions.
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You can have my Hurst shifter when you pry it from my cold dead hand.
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6913 |
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If the pattern on the TOB is offset then the fork is not centered to the bearing at contact. You have the wrong length fork! The spring comment is from working with Jeeps. I like the Jeep assembly better, personal preference.
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