TheAMCForum.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > The Garage > Transmission & Drivetrain
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Clutch Noise Part II...
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click for TheAMCForum Rules / Click for PDF version of Forum Rules
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.

Clutch Noise Part II...

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234 9>
Author
Message
AMXrated View Drop Down
AMC Nut
AMC Nut
Avatar

Joined: Jul/26/2015
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 290
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXrated Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 11:47am
Originally posted by ccowx ccowx wrote:

Have you made sure the TOB is right? Reason I ask is that I have a 1970 car and I used the RAM 88499HDX clutch kit, which is the heavy duty version of what you are using I believe. Great clutch, works well, BUT I had a clutch failure because it is issued with the wrong TOB. 

In 1970 AMC went to a slightly smaller throw out bearing, which is mentioned in PAS. It seems that this information is not known at RAM because all of their kits come with the larger TOB for a pre 1969 car. I guess this makes sense in a way since the larger bearing was the reccomended performance version. I have told RAM about this several times and even had a warranty serviced for a new clutch, but I don't get the feeling that they ever did anything about the incorrect TOB in their "67-74 clutch kit". If they have left it as is for the heavy duty kit I suspect they did not for the standard kit either. Perhaps Centerforce is using the same information?  

Unfortunately, my bearing made a rattling, grinding type noise and the only way to get rid of it was to push down on the pedal and take up the slack in the linkages. When I took it apart, the TOB had failed, along with the clutch, and they had worn away the bearing retainer on the trans until it simply broke through. 

If you need the correct bearing number for a 70 and up clutch I can find it.

Chris

PS: I happen to have my maintenance log on the coffee table, so here goes on the part numbers. The larger 69 and earlier type is #N1489. The smaller 70 and up version is #N1491. #1489 is the one that came in the 88499HDX kit and I would imagine they put the same one in the 772 kit also.   

Thanks for the info.  I originally had RAM B&B kit # 88772HDX (VERY stiff) and the TOB had the correct ID (although a little oversize, I thought), but it was very tight on the fingers of the clutch fork.  At this point in time, I still had the original snout on the trans bearing cover and was using a new clutch fork I bought from American Parts Depot since the fingers were worn on my original fork.  When I did my first road test, that is when the vibration problem started.  My first thought was that RAM had sent a bad TOB in the kit so I changed it out to a Centerforce (#N1491) and repaired my original clutch fork and went back to it.  Still same noise. I measured everything which checked out.  I changed the plastic clutch linkage bushings out for bronze and had a new linkage adjuster made that pushed the clutch fork in a nice straight direction. I sent the clutch and TOB back to RAM to check and they said they were fine.

SO, I bought a diaphragm clutch kit from Centerforce (DF271739) and another TOB (third one if you are keeping score...).  Same noise, maybe even a bit louder.

IDK, something is causing the TOB to vibrate/chatter as soon as it touches the clutch fingers.  Since everything measures out correctly and I have replaced every part (except the flywheel and dampener) I think I have a weird out-of-balance issue that is not enough to shake/vibrate the engine, but enough to cause the TOB to chatter.  I am out of ideas other than that.

Jack
You can have my Hurst shifter when you pry it from my cold dead hand.
Back to Top
6PakBee View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Avatar
Charter Member

Joined: Jul/01/2007
Location: North Dakota
Status: Offline
Points: 5458
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 12:00pm
Wow.  The only thing I could think of to try is clean the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers.  Then put a LIGHT coat of differential checking paste on either the throw out bearing contact surface or the pressure plate fingers.  Then lightly contact the pressure plate with the throw out bearing and check if you are getting uniform contact around the circumference of the bearing.  Your comment that the problem starts when the throw out bearing just contacts the pressure plate leads me to suspect a contact problem.  I would doubt that it's unbalance of any kind.  The diameter of the throw out bearing is just too small.
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

Forum Cockroach
Back to Top
Heavy 488 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: Apr/27/2019
Location: In the
Status: Offline
Points: 3557
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 12:10pm
I’d go with checking TOB ID and forget the balance idea.
Back to Top
ccowx View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: Nov/03/2010
Location: Yukon
Status: Offline
Points: 3510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccowx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 12:50pm

fair enough, I know you have done a million things. The one thing I am not 100% sure has been done is that there are TWO bearing retainers and TWO different throw out bearings. You have measured the TOB's and said that they seem ok, but a bit loose. I would look up the inside diameter of the two bearings and also see which bearing retainer you have. The car being in pieces might mean that you have an early bearing might be either early or late. There could still be a mismatch. 

If you have done this, bear in mind it is my wife and I's anniversary and I have not been able to check back in every thread! 

Good luck, but I, and others, still say all roads probably lead to the TOB! 

Chris 

PS: The difference in inside diameter is a few hundredts of an inch, but it enough to cause the TOB to not function properly. You have mentioned "a bit loose" and it could be more significant than you are thinking. 


Edited by ccowx - Jan/05/2020 at 3:24pm
Back to Top
Trader View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: May/15/2018
Location: Ontario
Status: Offline
Points: 6913
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 4:41pm
If the clutch is engaging and shifting is good, the TOB "should" not cause a lot of chatter or noise. A miss-matched TOB and clutch fork will shift fine and make a lot of noise as the bearing is rattling the fork. Does your fork have spring tabs for the TOB? Or is there a spring behind the TOB? Just another thing to check.
Also you don't mention dial indicating the flywheel. If the crankshaft flange was not true, even slightly, then the outside of the flywheel will amplify this. Easy enough to check by removing the inspection cover and setting up a dial indicator on the outside of the flywheel and rotating the crank.

Back to Top
scott View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: Jul/10/2007
Location: Wildwood Pa.
Status: Offline
Points: 3502
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 5:29pm
Have you put a dial indicator on the face of the flywheel, clutch off, & spun the crank to see what it reads? The base of the indicator on the block, the indicator riding on the face of the flywheel.

To go along with what Trader mentioned in a post.


Edited by scott - Jan/05/2020 at 5:32pm
Back to Top
AMXrated View Drop Down
AMC Nut
AMC Nut
Avatar

Joined: Jul/26/2015
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 290
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXrated Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 6:40pm
Originally posted by 6PakBee 6PakBee wrote:

Wow.  The only thing I could think of to try is clean the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers.  Then put a LIGHT coat of differential checking paste on either the throw out bearing contact surface or the pressure plate fingers.  Then lightly contact the pressure plate with the throw out bearing and check if you are getting uniform contact around the circumference of the bearing.  Your comment that the problem starts when the throw out bearing just contacts the pressure plate leads me to suspect a contact problem.  I would doubt that it's unbalance of any kind.  The diameter of the throw out bearing is just too small.

Thanks, I have not tried that test and will have to put everything back together first.  I pulled the flywheel off to see what the part number was to make sure I didn't have a 304 or 401 flywheel on it.

I will say that the wear pattern on the face of the TOB is consistent and right in the center.  But that does not tell me if the surface is contacting the clutch fingers uniformly.  
You can have my Hurst shifter when you pry it from my cold dead hand.
Back to Top
AMXrated View Drop Down
AMC Nut
AMC Nut
Avatar

Joined: Jul/26/2015
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 290
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXrated Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by ccowx ccowx wrote:


fair enough, I know you have done a million things. The one thing I am not 100% sure has been done is that there are TWO bearing retainers and TWO different throw out bearings. You have measured the TOB's and said that they seem ok, but a bit loose. I would look up the inside diameter of the two bearings and also see which bearing retainer you have. The car being in pieces might mean that you have an early bearing might be either early or late. There could still be a mismatch. 

If you have done this, bear in mind it is my wife and I's anniversary and I have not been able to check back in every thread! 

Good luck, but I, and others, still say all roads probably lead to the TOB! 

Chris 

PS: The difference in inside diameter is a few hundredts of an inch, but it enough to cause the TOB to not function properly. You have mentioned "a bit loose" and it could be more significant than you are thinking. 

Thanks for the reply and congrats on the anniversary.  

Just to clarify, the ID of the first TOB from RAM I used had an ID of 1.325 which seemed big to me.  The second (and third) TOB I am using now from Centerforce  has an ID of 1.313" and I had the bearing retainer snout machined to an OD of 1.311" so I have .002" of clearance across the diameter (I think I reversed those numbers in an earlier post).  Anyway, I'm not sure what the factory spec was originally, but .002" seemed fairly tight to me and should not allow for a lot of movement on the snout.
You can have my Hurst shifter when you pry it from my cold dead hand.
Back to Top
AMXrated View Drop Down
AMC Nut
AMC Nut
Avatar

Joined: Jul/26/2015
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 290
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXrated Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 7:00pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

If the clutch is engaging and shifting is good, the TOB "should" not cause a lot of chatter or noise. A miss-matched TOB and clutch fork will shift fine and make a lot of noise as the bearing is rattling the fork. Does your fork have spring tabs for the TOB? Or is there a spring behind the TOB? Just another thing to check.
Also you don't mention dial indicating the flywheel. If the crankshaft flange was not true, even slightly, then the outside of the flywheel will amplify this. Easy enough to check by removing the inspection cover and setting up a dial indicator on the outside of the flywheel and rotating the crank.


My clutch fork does not have spring tabs and there is no spring behind the TOB.  Honestly, I'm not sure how they would attach to the clutch fork I have.    Not sure I have seen anything like that in any of the assembly diagrams I've looked at.  Is that something AMC included from the factory?  

Yes, I have indicated the flywheel and checked concentricity around the perimeter and flatness on the clutch side.  Seems to be within and few thousands in both directions.
You can have my Hurst shifter when you pry it from my cold dead hand.
Back to Top
Trader View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: May/15/2018
Location: Ontario
Status: Offline
Points: 6913
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2020 at 8:55pm
If the pattern on the TOB is offset then the fork is not centered to the bearing at contact. You have the wrong length fork!
The spring comment is from working with Jeeps. I like the Jeep assembly better, personal preference.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234 9>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.109 seconds.
All content of this site Copyright © 2018 TheAMCForum unless otherwise noted, all rights reserved.
PROBLEMS LOGGING IN or REGISTERING:
If you have problems logging in or registering, then please contact a Moderator or