Choke sticking

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   Choke on Holley 1909 2555 sticks closed if I step on throttle and engine is under a load like being in second but it really wanted first.  
Any solutions? I have to peck on the linkage to get it to open back up.  Sucks because I’m always in the middle of traffic when it does it.  
I have sprayed carb cleaner in the vacuum tube that the linkage goes into, Ive tried wd40
I have considered even buying another carb but the ones on eBay are suspicious with no reviews of the sellers.  

Edited by Lexstang - Dec/14/2017 at 6:43pm

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Lexstang Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/29/2014 Location: Lexington ky Status: Offline Points: 104	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lexstang Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Choke sticking Posted: Dec/14/2017 at 6:39pm
	Choke on Holley 1909 2555 sticks closed if I step on throttle and engine is under a load like being in second but it really wanted first. Any solutions? I have to peck on the linkage to get it to open back up. Sucks because I’m always in the middle of traffic when it does it. I have sprayed carb cleaner in the vacuum tube that the linkage goes into, Ive tried wd40 I have considered even buying another carb but the ones on eBay are suspicious with no reviews of the sellers. Edited by Lexstang - Dec/14/2017 at 6:43pm

rocklandrambler Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/09/2013 Location: Nanuet, NY Status: Offline Points: 3953	Post Options Post Reply Quote rocklandrambler Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Dec/14/2017 at 6:59pm
	That's not a vacuum tube for the choke. It works on hot air from the exhaust manifold supplied by that tube. WD40 is a wonderful product but once it unsticks something it has absolutlely no lubricating value once it evaporates. Get out your TSM and go thru all the procedures for proper adjustment for the choke.
	Past AMC's 1974 Hornet X (new) 1975 Gremlin X (new) 1964 Classic 660 Cross Country 1965 American 440-H

Lexstang Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/29/2014 Location: Lexington ky Status: Offline Points: 104	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lexstang Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Dec/14/2017 at 7:05pm
	I know about the heat riser tube coming up to the thermostatic spring. I’m referimg to the place the linkage goes directly into off of the choke blade. Thanks for the help though.

pacerman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9057	Post Options Post Reply Quote pacerman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Dec/14/2017 at 7:08pm
	You also will need to make sure that little thermostat is capable of opening the choke and providing continual pressure on the choke lever to keep the choke valve opened. So basically as rockland stated above, you need to make sure it is getting a supply of hot air to the choke thermostat and the choke thermostat is adjusted properly to open the choke valve (and that is strong enough to keep the choke valve opened). I don't think anyone sells that choke thermostat because it is pretty rare. If you can sense pressure on the choke valve (towards the opening setting) and it still hangs up, you have a mechanical problem such as a worn or bent choke linkage or the choke plate is not aligned in the carb throat properly. Joe
	Happiness is making something out of nothing.

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Dec/14/2017 at 10:14pm
	no carburetor part is meant to be lubricated. (ok there are rare exceptions, but they are rare and in writing in some obscure manual). usually when linkages stick it's cuz there's a wear spot and its stuck in a groove. the metal parts on carbs don't last forever. the tube in the manifold is called a choke "stove", and for good reason.... inside, it's heated by exhaust, but the tube you see goes all the way through to the bottom, where it sucks in plain old air. you can't see that without taking the mani off (no one enjoys that part). what happens is, blasted with exhaust it develops a leak (or it develops 'no longer being there') and exhaust gas ends up in the tube and that cruds up the choke section of the carb. it's only supposed to suck heated air through the stove. if you see black under the choke parts that's the cause. besides the obvious (replacing the choke stove every 20 years) you could simply wrap a turn of copper tube around the manifold and make a new stove.
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com