TheAMCForum.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > The Garage > Electrical - non engine
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Charge Wire Change Motorola Alternator
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click for TheAMCForum Rules / Click for PDF version of Forum Rules
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.

Charge Wire Change Motorola Alternator

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234>
Author
Message
FuzzFace2 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/05/2007
Location: Angier, N.C.
Status: Offline
Points: 10356
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/10/2011 at 11:03am

Little back ground first: Going over the prints for the drag car, stock ALT/REG, I did run the output of the ALT to the trunk where the batt is to the batt side of the kill switch. From the kill switch (0ga wire? Kit from Summit) is power to the stock SOL in the engine bay. I ran a 10 ga wire from the same SOL lug to batt feed on to the input side of the stock IGN switch & the batt lug on the stock fuse panel.

I have power from the IGN switch to feed 2 lugs (ACC & IGN) on the fuse panel.

I use 1 ACC (of 3) out lug to feed line lock, it also have a 4 amp fuse on the power in line to the line lock switch. Radio out lug to feed my gauge lights & the backup/turn lug to feed power to my Auto Meter (as all gauges are) tac. I have a volt meter and it gets it feed from the IGN switch so only gets power with key on, other side of gauge goes to ground.

 

What I don’t have that would help you is details how the ALT got wired in, sorry. But I did look at the car and I see I used the stock heavy ga. Wire (yellow) that is on the power side of the SOL and is taped up inside the short (from fender well to ALT like stock) harness. Looking over my stock wiring prints that yellow wire goes to REG/Coil + side. Now what is fuzzy is the print says that yellow wire should be on the “I” lug of the SOL before it goes to the coil + to tie in with the REG and if car has tac the 2 wires at the coil get moved to the “I” lug on SOL.

Guess my thinking was if this yellow wire to the REG got 12 volts with key on then picking up 12 volts whenever the kill switch was on was OK? Switch is on only (most of the time anyway) on when it is running to make a pass, pits or trailer it is off and no power to the yellow wire.

I also don’t remember seeing a ground wire on the ALT just 3 wires, power out/green/orange. I don’t have a ALT light so don’t remember were that orange wire goes in the harness, just ends?

I guess some day I am going to have to open up this short harness to see what I did and fix it so it charges every time it runs without making a pass.

 
In short it is something like your first post print #2 = ALT out to the batt in trunk and the rest pick up power from the SOL lug.
Dave ----
TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car
Back to Top
FuzzFace2 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/05/2007
Location: Angier, N.C.
Status: Offline
Points: 10356
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/10/2011 at 11:22am

If I got your system right in my head, I know my head ant right, it is almost like my drag car. For a test pull the wire off the ALT output, tape it up good because it would be hot from the SOL side because that is where the batt hooks to right? Run a 10 ga. Wire from ALT output back to the batt and see what happens? Think that would be the same as the drag car and the power for the car gets picked up at the SOL where the batt + and other wires hook to. If works then fuse both ends of wire and run it thru car to look nice nice.

 

BTW what are you using to draw out the systems in this post? Something you can get cheap like standard MS Visio, not that it all that cheap. Would be nice to redo the print of the drag car wiring and update it as I added MSD setup. That and hard to read now as I did it in pencil & paper got oil on it, yep hard to read!

Dave ----

TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car
Back to Top
PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/07/2007
Location: West Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 5918
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/10/2011 at 5:29pm
 
FF2 - Thanks for all the info.
Using Microsoft PowerPoint to make the diagrams.
Once drawn, take a screenshot and save as a .jpg file.
Today the readings seem ok maybe on my car.
Will have to keep an eye on it I guess.
Might do the ALT wire direct to Battery test.
Would have to get the long piece of 10 gauge wire and Fuses.
Are you able to access the MAD Electrical web site ?
--------------------------------
Didn't measure Voltage at the Headlights.
Started to pull the headlights and the surrounds are kinda
captured between the bumper and little bump at headlight bottom.
Almost need to loosen the front bumper to remove the surrounds.
Got lazy, and readings seemed better today for some reason.
Maybe some other day will check volatge at headlights.
 
Right after starting it up cold and idleing saw 13.81 Volts
at the Alternator Ouptput and 13.71 Volts at the Battery across posts.
So for some reason today it was showing better readings.
I had cleaned some more connections since the last test was done.
Did forget to get readings after turning on Headlights and Blower.
Did not put Battery on charger before doing test.
Battery was "as-is" after sitting for a few days.

12.64 = Volts at Battery Across Posts at Rest before Start & Test

 0.01 = Volts between Alt ORANGE Post and Alt Case
      = Battery attached, Engine and Ign Key Off
      = Isolation Diode test per TSM

 6.40 = Volts at Regulator GREEN Field Wire at Idle
 4.80 = Volts at Regulator GREEN Field Wire at 2k

15.04 = Volts at Regulator ORANGE Wire at Idle
14.91 = Volts at Regulator ORANGE Wire at 2k

13.81 = Volts at Alternator Output at Idle
13.53 = Volts at Alternator Output at 2k

13.71 = Volts at Battery Across Posts at Idle
13.47 = Volts at Battery Across Posts at 2k

 0.10 = Volts Difference Alt Output vs Battery "+" Idle
 0.06 = Volts Difference Alt Output vs Battery "+" 2k

13.72 = Volts at Battery "+" to Chassis Ground at Idle
13.45 = Volts at Battery "+" to Chassis Ground at 2k

 0.01 = Volts at Battery "-" to Chassis Ground at Idle
 0.00 = Volts at Battery "-" to Chassis Ground at 2k

x.xx = Volts at Driver Side Headlight Connector at Idle - (didn't do)
x.xx = Volts at Driver Side Headlight Connector at Idle - (didn't do)

-----------------------



Edited by PHAT69AMX - Sep/10/2011 at 5:34pm
Back to Top
FuzzFace2 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/05/2007
Location: Angier, N.C.
Status: Offline
Points: 10356
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2011 at 1:26pm
Yes I can get to the site and IIRC it is the first time on this laptop. http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml
 
As for the ALT output test you could pick up 25' of 10 ga wire and just run it on the out side of car for testing. Would not even need fuses (I am daring). Again it is just for testing.
Could be cleaning of other connections fixed the issue? Also strange the volts go down as RPM goes up, wonder why that is?
With the volts you have now I would say it is good only time will tell.
Dave -----
TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car
Back to Top
billd View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group

Forum Administrator

Joined: Jun/27/2007
Location: Iowa
Status: Offline
Points: 30894
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2011 at 7:21pm

You want a 1 volt difference between post where orange wire connects to alternator (aux or reg terminal) and output. Actually, .8 to 1v, no more, no less, otherwise it won't regulate correctly. Any other difference also means a weak or bad isolation diode.

How are the brushes or slip rings?

Does your ignition draw a lot more at high RPM?

Back to Top
Wrambler View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/02/2007
Location: West Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 4199
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2011 at 11:03am
Dave, You can get a large amp Fuse holder at most anyplace that sells Stereo equipment.
The one in my kids car handles 100 amps fine.
Takes the large blade fuse. Snip and strip the wire add little dieelectric grease and the wires go into the fuse holder and are crimped down with allen set screws.

Way to easy a job to not do it.


Edited by Wrambler - Sep/12/2011 at 11:06am
Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler
4.0L, 5 speed
2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
2019 Chrysler 300
Back to Top
PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/07/2007
Location: West Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 5918
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2011 at 11:14am
Would the voltage dropping with RPM be an indication of a weak engine ground strap ?
 
Brushes and slip rings, don't know, but Alternator was re-built in 2008
by a small father and son local shop.  Hardly 3k miles on it since then.
Receipt says new bearings, reckon they had it apart.
Took the TSM with me, reminded them about the Snap Ring to remove
in order to remove the one case half from the shaft.
 
MSD 6T box documentation says 1 Amp draw per 1000 engine rpm.
Stock AMC Delco Dizzy has a UniLite conversion in it firing the MSD box and Blaster II Coil.
 
An embarraing occurance last fall.
Was doing some carb tuning, got tired of walking around to read tach in dash.
Have an old school chrome die-cast case Tach-Dwell Meter.
In haste I attached it wrong, get confused, correct is T/D RED on Coil "-".
I attached the T/D RED to the Coil "+" by mistake.
Boy did the T/D "-" lead spark like crazy when I attached it to ground !
Car was running when the T/D was connected wrong, and kept running.
Realised my mistake and corrected the T/D connections.
Wondered if when the T/D was connected wrong if it messed up something.....
 
Am seeing greater than 0.8-1.8 voltage difference between Orange and Alt Output.
Isolation Diode is brand new out of the PrestoLite Box last week.
Testing it like it says in the TSM shows only 0.01 Volt.
 
15.04 = Volts at Regulator ORANGE Wire at Idle
13.81 = Volts at Alternator Output at Idle
 1.23 = Volts Difference
 
14.91 = Volts at Regulator ORANGE Wire at 2k
13.53 = Volts at Alternator Output at 2k
 1.38 = Volts Difference
Back to Top
PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/07/2007
Location: West Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 5918
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2011 at 3:57pm

Still have low confidence in charging system operation.
Added (2) Grounds to pass side block to chassis.
1 braided at starter b-hsg bolt to strut rod brkt frame bolt.
1 batt cable type Alt Pivot Bolt to Idle Arm frame stud.

Could my Charging System and/or ALT Dash Light "problems"
be being caused by the (2) Ballast Resistors "bandaids",
needed in order to make the MSD Box work with
the stock Tach & Motorola Charging System,
attached to the coil end of the stock Coil "+" wire ?

The Stock Coil "+" wire is common with (1) side of the ALT Light circuit.

Note that the stock Coil "+" wire no longer goes to the Coil.
It is only used as a "signal" by the MSD Box.
Coil wires are now Orange and Black direct from the MSD Box.

-----------------

I run a Delco Distributor UniLite triggered MSD Box
an use the stock in-dash 1969 AMX Tachometer.

Had (2) issues when MSD box was 1st installed.
1. Engine run-on, keep running with key off.
2. Stock Tachometer not working.

Fix for both issues was found in the MSD Instructions
and each called for the use of a Ballast Resistor,
but not in the common way used to drop feed voltage.

1.) Engine Run-On Fix

Dual Ballast Resistor at Coil "+" end of STOCK Coil wire
both ballast in series and then attached to GROUND.

2.) Stock Tachometer Fix

Single Ballast Resistor ACROSS the MSD RED & WHITE pick-up wires.

This means at the coil end of the original Coil "+" wire
I have (2) connections to (2) different Ballast Resistors,

#1 to prevent engine run-on
(1) double resistor to ground

#2 to use stock tachometer
(1) single resistor across MSD Red & White
    (orig Coil "+" wire attaches to MSD Red)
    (stock current triggered tach)

These fixes were out of the MSD instructions and have worked
for a long time for stock tach function and to prevent run-on.
Hmmm, wonder if one or both of the ballast resistors I'm using
that have been on the car for 20 years is going or has gone bad ?...
Guess testing ballast resistors is a good idea....
 
 
Back to Top
billd View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group

Forum Administrator

Joined: Jun/27/2007
Location: Iowa
Status: Offline
Points: 30894
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2011 at 9:50pm
If I recall, AMC wired the ignition switch so that the alt light circuit is not on the same output post of the switch as the yellow/ignition feed. IF it is, then........ that's a problem
Reason being is that as the alternator spins, there's output on the orange that could feed back into the yellow thus to the ignition if they were in the same place on the switch.
 
So that makes me think the orange is on accessory, and the yellow on ignition - and they are distinct and seperate in the switch so that when you turn it off, the yellow/ign and orange/accessory are not connected in any way (other than inside the regulator)
Otherwise as the alternator spins it would feed back into the yellow. So make sure they are in the proper places. (they probably are) the MSD stuff has me  confused but I'm bushed right now.....
 
You can actually re-wire the Motorola system as such:
The yellow from the ignition switch would be 12v (full battery) - use a 75 ohm resistor between that yellow and the yellow to the regulator. That should supply about 1.5 - 2v excitation to get the alternator going in event of the indicator bulb burning out. (note that some AMCs wired the yellow to the alternator AFTER the resistance wire to the coil anyway)
This might help prevent feedback into the ignition system. IF the light circuit is working properly, the yellow is just a backup anyway and isn't utilized for anything. It's there in case the bulb burns out and there's no excitation voltage for the field.
The yellow and orange connect inside the regulator - via an internal resistor (about 82 ohm if I recall)
 
So what was the issue again - is there really a voltage issue at the battery? What was the light doing? If the charging voltage as measured at the output side of the alternator is correct, then there is no alternator issue.
Can't recall what the light issue was......
Did you measure voltage at the AUX or REG terminal on the alternator and compare it to the output terminal voltage?
.9v difference?
Ballast resistors do go bad - used to replace quite a few back in the old days, esp the mopar ones.
Back to Top
PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/07/2007
Location: West Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 5918
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/27/2011 at 12:46am
Understanding is yes,
stock wiring does get feedback to the yellow coil wire
from the orange ALT Light wire.
Yellow ignition switch to Regulator wire has a "Tee".
This Tee feeds the ALT Light through the Fuse Box.
With stock Points it will not run-on, insufficient voltage I guess.
With the MSD using the Yellow Coil wire as only a "signal"
it still "sees" the small voltage and continues to run with key off.
I guess that's why a dual ballast resistor wired to the end
of the Yellow Coil Wire and attached to Ground "drains"
that small "feedback" current from the Yellow Coil Wire
when the ignition key is turned off so the MSD doesn't see it
anymore and the engine quits running.

For the MSD to work with the stock Tach
a 2nd single Ballast Resistor is needed
and one end of it also attaches to the Yellow Coil Wire.

Charging System component and connection checks are ok.
Charging System operation seems intermittent or unreliable.
Trying to find what in the system seems to be preventing
the charging system from increasing output with system load.
Wondering if these (2) non-stock Ballast Resistors
attached to the Yellow Coil Wire,
which is part of the Charging System ALT Light circuit,
may be casuing or part of the problem.

Half tempted to switch back to Points just as a Test
to see if there are any changes in the Charging System operation.


ALT Light "Problem"
I'm getting the "Rambler Glow" on the ALT Light
not visible durring the day, visible at night.

Voltage seems ok sometimes, no in-car gauge.
Voltage does seem to drop when at 2k idle
from what it reads at 700 idle, which is odd.

Voltage at battery drops with high beams and blower on.

Full Fielding showed like 18 volts at the battery.

Main "Problem"
It's like the system is not sensing any increased load
and compensating for it by increasing alternator output.


MSD
All it is with an MSD box is that
the stock coil wires attach to the MSD Box and
the MSD Box has it's own wires that attach to the Coil.
All the MSD does is take-over feeding the Coil.
The MSD has its own Orange & Black Coil wires.
Only these are attached to the coil, nothing else.
The MSD uses the stock Yellow Coil Wire as just a "signal".
The MSD can be triggered 2 ways, Magnetic Pick-up
or non-magnetic like Points, or UniLite, or XRi, etc.
If triggered non-magnetic a pair of wires from the MSD Box,
Red & White, are used to pick up the trigger signal.

To make a factory '69 AMX current riggered Tach work
with the MSD a Ballast Resistor must be wired in
across the Red & White MSD "signal" pick-up Wires.
The stock Yellow Coil / Tach Wire is attached as a "signal"
to the Red MSD wire instead of being attached to the Coil.
-------------------

On the Ignition Switch,
coming from the same post as the Pink Resistance wire,
is the Yellow wire that goes to the Voltage Regulator.

This Yellow wire has a "T" union marked "C" on the '69 TSM Schem.
At this "T" the other Yellow wire branch goes to the Fuse Box,
through a 4 Amp fuse, and exits as the Green wire that runs
from the Fuse Box to Instrument Panel, through the ALT Light,
then out of the Inst Pnl through an Orange w/tracer wire
that runs out to the Voltage Regulator.

The only other things on the same Fuse Box 4 Amp circuit
as the Yellow Ign Wire and Green ALT Dash Light wire
are the Headlight Warning Buzzer and Emergency Brake Warning Light.
 
When using the MSD box, voltage does leak back through that way.
It causes engine run-on after igntion is turned off.

The Dual Ballast Resisitor attaching the Yellow Coil wire to Ground,
which seems really odd to do but that's what was in the MSD docs,
does cure the engine run-on problem the MSD box first had.
It's just that the dual ballast resistor is not being used conventionaly,
it's not being used to drop coil feed voltage,
it being used to ground the yelow coil + wire
which somehow counteracts the "leakage" or "feedback" of
power through the ALT Light circuit on stock '69 AMC wiring
with a Motorola charging system when the ignition is turned off.

A 2nd, single Ballast Resistor is also then needed
in order to make the stock 1969 Tach work with the MSD.


There was more than 0.9 Volt difference,
 1.23 to 1.38 volts diff

15.04 = Volts at Regulator ORANGE Wire at Idle
14.91 = Volts at Regulator ORANGE Wire at 2k

13.81 = Volts at Alternator Output at Idle
13.53 = Volts at Alternator Output at 2k

 
Changed the drawing a little bit to show the "Tee" in the yellow IGN Wire.
Haven't chased every wire in the harness, but that what's shown in the TSM Schematic.
It must feedback that way and that's what cause run-on initially with the MSD.
 
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.188 seconds.
All content of this site Copyright © 2018 TheAMCForum unless otherwise noted, all rights reserved.
PROBLEMS LOGGING IN or REGISTERING:
If you have problems logging in or registering, then please contact a Moderator or