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Catalytic Converter Removal

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Fahques View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fahques Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/16/2017 at 7:10pm
Thanks for all the advice. Seems like the general consensus is to leave everything as stock as possible. As far as I know, it's almost 100% stock, minus some wear & tear parts. Everything looks stock as far as I can tell. It has 'low' miles for an 82 at 73,326 & runs very decent considering the age. But, I do like the cracked muffler rumble. Oh well, I'm not in high school anymore & it's definitely not a muscle wagon.

I guess it's a smarter choice to leave it original & not start tinkering around with back pressure & possible overheating. One of the things I do love about the car is the fact that it NEVER runs hot. Even in the mid-high 90 degrees here in PA, it runs pretty cool.

I'll definitely get back with what happens after it's all taken care of & as far as pix goes, if I'm permitted to throw some up, I will.

Thanks again
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purple72Gremlin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/16/2017 at 10:00pm
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

On certain cars, the EGR needs backpressure to open.  (some GM cars did)  AMC used Delco EGR valves, (althrough I have a AMC 360 with the Chrysler EGR valve)....   and usually if you keep everything working and hooked up correctly, it will run good.
Yeah, he almost certainly has a positive backpressure EGR valve. Most AMC engines got them from 1976 onwards. The more backpressure it has, the more exhaust it recirculates, so less backpressure due to a higher flowing exhaust would simply mean less EGR. That's not necessarily a bad thing. 

I wouldn't worry about throwing off the EGR with an exhaust change. I have two engines with positive backpressure EGR: one is a 1977 AMC 232 I6 and another is a 1977 Buick 231 V6. I drove both of them with their stock exhaust systems (both 2" systems with converters) then I drove them again with improved, higher flow exhaust systems (2" or 2.25" with no cat) and noticed zero change in performance or how the EGR operated. I've even driven them with no EGR what so ever and they didn't ping or have any ill effects. Some engines will ping without their EGR unless the timing and fuel mixture are changed, but mine never have. 
Ive noticed that the engines run smoother with the EGR working, and yeah Ive eliminated EGRs.......Fords were bad for pinging when the EGR wouldnt open or the passage was plugged up.........anymore I keep the EGR functional if I have all of the stuff that works with it.  my 1974 258 does not have EGR.  (some 1974s had EGR while others did not)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/17/2017 at 12:19am
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

Ive noticed that the engines run smoother with the EGR working...I keep the EGR functional if I have all of the stuff that works with it.
I agree and do the same. The only time EGR has given me problems is if the carburetor is on the edge of being too lean. They'll run ok without the EGR, but lean bog like heck when the EGR kicks in. 

I like EGR. The idea of a cooler running engine that uses less fuel sounds like a win to me. It's just variable displacement. Take a 300 cubic inch engine, fill it with 100 cubic inches of inert gas, and you only have to give it 200 cubic inches worth of fuel and air. Open the throttle more, the EGR stops, and now you're back to a 300 cubic inch engine. I think that is really cool.

Wait, you and I agreed on something. LOL Good on ya, mate.  
1955 Packard
1966 Marlin
1972 Wagoneer
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1977 Hornet
1982 Concord D/L
1984 Eagle Limited
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73Gremlin401 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Gremlin401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/17/2017 at 12:25am
Glad you've made a decision!   Regarding exhaust sound, when you replace the muffler, you can ask the muffler shop to install a 'turbo' muffler (generic term for a lower restriction/stock shape & size muffler)

You could also increase the exhaust tubing size from the stock 1 7/8 to 2" or 2 1/4", and the muffler shop won't have too hard of a time getting it over the axle.  Doing 1 or the other, or both will result in a slightly deeper exhaust note without being loud or raspy, and keep things looking stock.
73 Gremlin 401/5-spd.
77 Matador Wagon 360/727.
81 Jeep J10 LWB 360/4-spd
83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto

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