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Carter BBD issues

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uncljohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/19/2017 at 7:44am
I have owned pretty much uniquely the late model AMC products from the middle 70's to early 80's (I choose to avoid those with plastic valve covers) and if most of the OEM smog components are still on the engine some where I have successfully been able to reassemble things correctly according to the TSM and how it has or was supposed to be and be able to tune and drive these cars satisfactory. I have had at times the need to not only tune and drive them but to have them pass state smog tests. It can be done. But a TSM is a mandatory product to have. So is a vacuum gauge and the knowledge as to how to use the thing.
I have even built modified I-6 motors that ran like Smokey the bear and also passed smog.
I do not object to the Smog version of the Carter BBD carburetor other than it's miniscule size which chokes the engine way down but it will indeed work correctly if given a chance. I have worked also with the Carter YF. They are old carburetors many of us learned to rebuild when they were newer and we were younger.
Following the directions on the rebuild kits and using a clean work bench to find dropped parts goes a long ways to completing the job. Vacuum and the correct application of it depends on the rubber hoses to be in good condition and plugged in correctly.
Sort of is not good enough. It is incorrect routing of the rubber lines for the vacuum to be correct and this includes those that go into the cabin to run fresh air vents and heater-A/c systems or on Eagles that go under the car to shift drive systems. It some times is quite frustrating to have to go there but that is what it is.
If I have to I can and some times do retrofit the engine compartment so it mimics that application as to 1970 but that too requires a methodic approached.
But the bottom line still is, a TSM gets the job done. If it is not being used, the same language between two people is not being understood.
70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration
76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power
80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit
74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam
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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/19/2017 at 8:49am
I believe you will find that the computer control system on the 80s BBD carb is of GM origin, but I might be wrong. It's tailored to the AMC 258 engine, of course, and some of the ancillary vacuum controls and such that go with it are unique to AMC... most likely by AMC engineers. They may have just sourced the computer itself from GM and made their own ROM (programming).
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcfool1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/19/2017 at 1:04pm
hi, the computer is of Ford origin, and the 84+, (not sure about 83), is still available from any auto parts place, about $180. thanks, gz
george z
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/19/2017 at 7:20pm
what uncljohn and everyone else says -- you just gotta have a Factory Technical Service Manual. it's false economy to not have one. best money you;ll spend.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/20/2017 at 6:21am
I was probably thinking about the GM 2.5L computer system....

Tom's comment on the TSM goes for ANY AMC/Rambler you plan on working on much, really, but doubly so for the later cars with rather complicated smog systems.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tarnish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/20/2017 at 3:02pm
All right. Got a TSM on disk. Shipped, coming. Advice taken.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tarnish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/22/2017 at 2:07am
The wheel cylinders need replacing before I can do a proper road test with the new carburetor. Brakes felt squishy after the torque converter was put in and the car wouldn't stop without a parking brake punch. Replacing the cylinders and the hardware (various things snapped over the years), and gonna road test at the first opportunity to see if the problem's still around.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tarnish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2017 at 12:25am
Master Cylinder's out ffs. I drove 'er around and she stalled in reverse before she left the yard, but that ain't nothing new. Ol' girl never liked that gear. But the MC is spitting pretty good, so I'll... Do that, too.

Runs for a year, fix for a year, I guess. z.z
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2017 at 6:31am
That's par for the course with an old car! Eventually you'll have replaced everything. When you do it one or two things a year, by the time you get around to replacing everything, it's time to start over, because the thing you replaced 10+ years ago is now ready to be replaced again! Enjoy.... you have too!
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2017 at 11:58pm
yup, what farna says!

my approach is that when a component fails (master cylinder) to fix the entire SYSTEM at that time -- master cyl, go through front and rear brakes, and look at the lines, and shotgun all wear parts. it seems like a lot of work, but it's less sum work than doing it piecemeal, where each failure takes you by surprise and is a new frustration.

chances are that the wheel cylinders are leaking, or are about to. and when you change the master, you have to bleed it (ON THE BENCH! then on the car). and the wheel hoses are bad (they are ancient). hoses are $15, wheel cyls $25, spring kits $10. shoes are drums might cost, but heck, mark them which is which, assemble the same used shoes and drums, you can put that off til later to save money if you must.

but if you do all the hydraulic stuff, you'll also inspect it, fix other stuff along the way, it will all behave in a safe and fun manner, and as frank points out, it wont need work for another 10 years!  -- if you treat it like a system.

1969 stands still, the calendar still marches forward. '69 today is like our fathers fixing model Ts. only those had less to go wrong. they're all old now, it's simply the territory.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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