Carter BBD issues

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   Lmao. Yeh, I already replaced most of those things. The Master Cylinder was my last resort, and it seems as though I need to replace that, too! Go figure.

Looks like the booster may be bad as well, now I'm looking at it. Engine stalls and the pedal falls. Ffs, it never ends.

I'll be able to run it again eventually. Maybe.

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Tarnish Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/28/2016 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 33	Post Options Post Reply Quote Tarnish Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/03/2017 at 12:10am
	Lmao. Yeh, I already replaced most of those things. The Master Cylinder was my last resort, and it seems as though I need to replace that, too! Go figure. Looks like the booster may be bad as well, now I'm looking at it. Engine stalls and the pedal falls. Ffs, it never ends. I'll be able to run it again eventually. Maybe.

Mr_AMC Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/27/2010 Location: Charleston, SC Status: Offline Points: 125	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mr_AMC Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/03/2017 at 1:39pm
	I agree TOTALLY with hook up all of the things correctly.. I have had MUCH better results when you connect everything properly.. ESPECIALLY, the EGR valve.. It will make a huge difference in not having spark knock (detonation) when it is working, and not clogged with carbon.. Get a factory manual.. There is an accurate description of the feedback system.. and what each part does..

Tarnish Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/28/2016 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 33	Post Options Post Reply Quote Tarnish Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/22/2017 at 2:02am
	New carb, no longer stalls. Guess it actually was just a worn-out old carburetor.

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/23/2017 at 12:11am
	sometimes the body casting is simply bad. they wear! and pits and corrosion... carbs are fluid computers, so emulsion on the metal actually matters. for some reason it's easier to find reusable 60's carbs than 70's 80's carbs. congratulations on the success.
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com

amcfool1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jun/18/2011 Location: roanoke va Status: Offline Points: 1075	Post Options Post Reply Quote amcfool1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/23/2017 at 9:04pm
	hi, great the car is running again, hope you enjoyed this "ordeal", bet you now know more about your car than anybody else, that's what it's about. good luck, gz
	george z

BOBB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/30/2023 Location: DEMING NM Status: Offline Points: 33	Post Options Post Reply Quote BOBB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/30/2023 at 12:56pm
	I've just picked up a 1977 AMC Pacer with a 4.2 6cyl., power steering, AC, power brakes, a 2bbl carter non electric choke and the pollution stuff on it. Someone before me took off some of the pollution equipment. It seems to be running good but I've noticed that some of the vacuum lines are not hooked up where they are supposed to go according to the few diagrams that I've been able to find on the internet. It is running rich but not smoking. I need a vacuum diagram specifically for it. I see that you have posted some diagrams. I need to know just exactly what pollution equipment that can be removed and how to do it. Can you help me with this project?

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/30/2023 at 8:03pm
	The problem with removing the emissions equipment is that the engine was specifically designed and tuned to run with it. You have to be careful about removing any of it. It's usually best to get it back in working order than to try to remove it unless you study it and know exactly what the removed equipment was doing and how it will affect engine running. Too many times people just rip it all off without making changes to things like the distributor and carb to make it run correctly without the stuff. It is getting harder to fix the emissions equipment due to parts, but that's the best route. When it's not working right it will adversely affect engine performance to the point that removing it might help, but still won't bring performance up to where it would be if everything was working. You have the additional challenge of not knowing what was done before you got the car.
	Frank Swygert

BOBB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/30/2023 Location: DEMING NM Status: Offline Points: 33	Post Options Post Reply Quote BOBB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/30/2023 at 10:53pm
	Thanks Frank. It is not running too badly. I know that I need to reset the timing and do some minor carb adjustments. I was just looking for some knowledge that I didn't have pertaining to the emissions controls that are safely removed and how it would affect the engine the way it is right now. I appreciate the feedback.

BOBB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/30/2023 Location: DEMING NM Status: Offline Points: 33	Post Options Post Reply Quote BOBB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/01/2023 at 9:21am
	Tarnish, This may not have anything to do with your problem but I had a knock in my pacer 6 cly 258 that happened only on startup and went away right after it started running. I changed the plugs and wires and found out that #6 cyl plug looked like brand new and hadn't been firing at all while the other 5 plugs were fouled somewhat. The way that the 6cyl motor is stuffed so far up under the cowl makes it possible to not seat the plug wire well enough. I fixed that problem and the starting knock went away. Just a thought.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/04/2023 at 8:31am
	BOBB, you really need to get a 1977 TSM. That will have all the info you need. If you plan on keeping the car a while it will be the best $50 you ever spent on it. You don't need the two supplements for the Pacer. https://www.nashparts.com/Rambler/1977amc.htm
	Frank Swygert