can't get a pedal

On hanging the caliper from a wire and gravity bleeding it, I got it wrong. This was actually in the Speedway Motors kit instructions which said to hang it with the bleeder parallel to the ground, not upside down. The bleeders on these Cadillac calipers are in a terrible position. They intersect the top of the bore at a 90 degree angle, so there's not much room for error. They can tilt up slightly, but not down and they are hidden behind the emergency cable bracket and spring so it's hard to get a wrench on it with the hose on the nipple. You can get a socket on it

I think switching ports on the master cylinder would be a good experiment. I know my GM master is set up that way, but it is also made in Australia and on the wrong side of the car!

Do you know what your front end alignment specs are? If you add more caster, you can reduce the amount of brake dive. Does it dive to one side all the time or is it random? I find it hard to believe that the rears are causing a brake dive.
I was doing some reading on your thread and see that you've been having problems with the rear Caddy calipers. I have them on the rear of my Javelin and yes they're a pain to get adjusted right but once they are, they work great. Just be sure to use your parking brake once in a while to keep them adjusted. I was wondering if you switched your brake line to the front of the master cylinder yet? That's where it should be. I'm using my stock master cylinder with the residual valve removed and it works great. The 1" bore on the GM is to small I think.


Edited by Mopar_guy - Aug/02/2014 at 8:20am

Rogue401 wrote: Mopar Guy, It dives under heavy braking pretty evenly and doesn't pull or dive to one side. I haven't had it aligned in a long time, but it steers straight, doesn't wonder and tire wear is OK. I cranked the caster out as far as it will go, but it has very little road feel and feels over boosted. I have a new CPP GN 500 series box (knockoff), but haven't installed it yet.  I haven't switched the lines on the GM MC yet. I think I'm just going to go to a Hornet or Jeep master and will re-plumb it then.  Thanks

So you're saying it nose dives? I took it as it dived to one side when braking. That sounds like the rears aren't getting enough volume then. Try a master with a bigger bore and if you use a disc/drum or drum/drum master cylinder, be sure to remove the residual check valve(s) first.  
My master has a 1 1/16" bore if I remember right. A 1" bore master had to much pedal travel.

I have played with the ratio off and on. There is only one hole in the American pedal. Usually power brakes have about 4:1 and a larger bore for a firmer pedal. I may be wrong, but I think the power brake bracket and bell crank changes the ratio instead of another hole in the pedal. One thing I did do was weld a tab on the pedal to correct the geometry. The arc of the MC pushrod pedal pivot starts to slow travel towards the floor.