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BW-T35 -> AW4 Swap

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DaemonForce View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: BW-T35 -> AW4 Swap
    Posted: Jan/20/2017 at 5:05am
Hello. After a few days of getting things squared away with the 71 Javelin, I'm starting to have serious issues with the BW automatic and the only references I can find about this transmission are related to the BW T35 series via Cobra Transmission. With a total nearing 72 parts this looks like an antique torqueflite and I've already been down that path with rebuilding an Eagle TF998.

The current symptoms it has is that shifting from Park, Reverse and Neutral work fine but it takes its sweet time engaging into Drive and now it requires feathering the throttle at high RPMS just to get it moving in a forward gear. I don't feel any shifting into higher gears either.

I'm thinking this may either be a burned up clutchpak or loose band. I don't have any guides on how to adjust it either. One of the things I've been looking at recently is the fact that none of us got a properly evolved automatic for these cars until 4 years AFTER American was bought and buried by Chrysler. There's a line of Toyota transmissions via Aisin Warner that came equipped in Jeeps that I find in the yard from 91-01 and I'm wondering if an AW4 from a wrecked 97 Cherokee is a sweet ticket to getting this working proper. I'm aware this was issued behind the 4.0L but that doesn't seem to stop a few people from bolting this up to an AMC V8.

One of the stipulations that worried me about doing this is the fact that this BW marriage indicates I have an antiquated engine with the flat crank flange and because the engine is external balance, I may need to fabricate a counterweight onto a flexplate to keep the assembly balanced. There's a lot of dependencies in this already. What should I be focusing on first?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2017 at 6:54am
There's a sticky in this section about the AW4 swap.
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2017 at 8:36am
Yeah I've gone through some of the notes. Here's the thing. My attention is being constantly divided by two cars that either don't run or don't want to move. They're unstable. I have a donor up North for a late crankshaft and some modern ignition parts and accessories that I intend to use in a future engine build. I was supposed to go check that out today. Not with all of this mess.

The Borg Warner automatic is not the best thing to have as parts for it are a pain to find and should I dare go through the process of rebuilding one, it's not going to be on my already full work bench. It's going to be another 3 month and $2200 circus by some dumb mechanic that likes to play keepaway with these ^&% things and by the time I get it back it's going to be in the same poor shape it was in right before it started slipping. If I dive into a AW4 swap, it's going to be a straight pick and swap or I'll have to cut my losses. I'm not sure if I have any business already chasing newer parts for this car but I really don't know anything about this BW auto.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2017 at 8:55am
Front band adjustment with pan off 1/4" spacer at 9 in lbs. and tighten jamb nut.

Rear band adjustment from outside case IIRC upper rh side 9 ft lbs, then loosen 3/4 turn and tighten jamb nut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote amc67rogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2017 at 11:43am
Sounds like the forward clutch is bad. ( Forward clutch means the clutch that is applied in ALL forward gears. )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2017 at 6:27pm
I wouldn't doubt it. I'm really against pulling the pan off of this thing but if that's the first step to adjusting the front band, I should probably get to work on this as soon as possible. Washington weather doesn't make that likely to happen. The last time I had transmission issues with an automatic was with my Eagle wagon and that sat for several months on jackstands because of nonstop rain. I don't have a garage/carport and can't be bothered to look under these cars when my back is saturated with all kinds of yuck.

The last thing I want to be doing is take the whole thing to the same idiot that charged me $2200 to rebuild a TF998 and it took 3 months while cars were flying in and out of that shop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amc67rogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2017 at 6:34pm
Forward clutch and front band is 2ND. gear.
Keith Coggins 67Rogue X code
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2017 at 6:48pm
And Revving the engine to get it to go does more damage............. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amc67rogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2017 at 8:34pm
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

And Revving the engine to get it to go does more damage............. 
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Keith Coggins 67Rogue X code
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2017 at 8:15am
The first thing to check is the vacuum modulator on a 70s model BW. If that isn't working right you may not be getting enough pressure at low speed. Those models shouldn't have a TV cable, but if it does use a cable for kick-down instead of an electric solenoid the cable adjustment (and that the cable is free) is imperative -- same function as the vac modulator.

As long as hard parts (drums/gears/shafts, not clutch packs) are good the tans is fairly easy to rebuild. It's very similar to a Ford FMX (the FMX is a derivative of the earlier BW models) and uses the same rebuild kit and clutches. The rebuild kit just has different pan and VB gaskets to fit several models of BW and early Ford trannys (earlier Ford trannys are license produced BW models with some changes -- the Cruise-O-Matic and Ford-O-Matic models, and lastly the FMX -- not the C-x models).
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