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BW M11 trans lost 2nd gear |
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WesternRed 
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Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799 |
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 Posted: Jul/06/2012 at 12:56pm |
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You do need the Jeep case version of the Turbo 400 though and I believe you also need to do some work with the extension housing for the speedo and probably tailshaft mods so it all adds to the cost and complexity of the deal. Boris (Brootal) has the turbo 400 in his American.
I think in a lot of cases it's probably easier to just buy a built tranny and matching convertor from someone like TCI and have it shipped down here, probably cheaper than sourcing one locally and then paying an arm and a leg to have it rebuilt by someone who may or may not know what they are doing. I was thinking just to have a go at patching up the M11 myself as a bit of a stop gap while I save up for something better.
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RayJavelin
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Joined: Jan/12/2012 Location: West Australia Status: Offline Points: 40 |
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Posted: Jul/06/2012 at 8:54pm |
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The adapter kit is for a gm transmission and not the jeep version. Youre right about the speedo, not sure how that will work, was going to cross that bridge when i get there. tailshaft will need modified anyway with either a turbo or a torqueflite transmission. Yoke will need changed with the turbo transmission, not sure about the torqueflite though.
Here are the links for the adapter http://www.performanceamstyle.com/Cart/description.php? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-716138/ Ive never rebuilt an auto but sounds like your bw11 is either clutches or the bands. If you rebuid the bw are you going to pull it apart first for a bit of a look. if your bands are worn/slipping then you may need a new band drum, rebuild kits wont contain this part. Let us know how you go with the bw, Id be interested to see how it goes...sounds like fun also. Cheers Ray Edited by RayJavelin - Jul/06/2012 at 9:03pm |
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WesternRed
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Posted: Jul/06/2012 at 10:07pm |
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Hadn't seen that kit before, but $429 for the kit plus shipping, probably another $300 for the yolk and tailshaft mods, maybe $100 for the speedo cable (TF to early AMC speedo cable is available so presumably you can get one for the GM trans) plus a bit more for the tranny mount and other bits and pieces. I reckon it would be an easy $1K just for the conversion bits before you even buy the tranny and convertor. Might be the way to go if you wanted to slot in one of the 4 speed GM tranny's for the extra OD gear but there is probably even more work in that.
You are up against nearly the same thing if you go the torque flight route. I should have put more thought into this when I built the motor and just used the later 360 crank and replaced the auto at the same time. Almost makes me want to start again and build a stroker motor.  Anyway, I reckon the TSM stuff from the first post is leaning towards a problem with the front band. I have a spare M11 tranny here but it is a complete unknown and sat outside the grass at Ben Ludlow's for untold years so it is probably completley stuffed. But it was free.
Edited by WesternRed - Jul/06/2012 at 10:10pm |
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RayJavelin
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Joined: Jan/12/2012 Location: West Australia Status: Offline Points: 40 |
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Posted: Jul/06/2012 at 10:45pm |
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Atleast youll be able to use that spare m11 for any hard parts like the band drum if you fix it up.
Sometimes it takes a while to get the combo sorted. Ive been through a few 4l60e transmissions in my ls1 commodore(puke) until i got it sorted out. Hmmmm Stroker motor sounds nice...you already have the top end and other parts...just need a bottom end...
 dont want to incourage you though. youll probly be more than happy once you get your combo all sorted. |
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WesternRed
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Posted: Jul/06/2012 at 10:54pm |
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Yeah, the engine build cost me nearly 2 years, would be nice to just enjoy driving it for a while.
How is your's comming along Ray, have seen a few hints that the drivetrain in in progress, how about the body side of things? Maybe you should start up a project thread for us.
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RayJavelin
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Posted: Jul/06/2012 at 11:18pm |
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Im having some parts shipped from CA in a shipping container atm. They include a trunk floor, dropoffs, lower rear quarter panels, gas tank, rear valance, tail lights, rear reflector panel, fibreglass ram air hood for the body side of things and for the engine some ported edelbrocks, 390 crank and the transmission adapter. Ill be using your rear cut also. Rowe and Sons in Maddington will be doing the bodywork. Just waiting for the parts to come in.
Ill definitely start up a thread once i get it all together and off to the body shop. Cheers Ray |
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WesternRed
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Posted: Jul/06/2012 at 11:22pm |
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Cool, definitely sounds like it is heading in the right direction.
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WesternRed
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Posted: Jul/06/2012 at 11:42pm |
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Ok, quick question, is there an easy way to dell the difference between the M11 and M12 besides the ID tag?
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WesternRed
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Posted: Jul/07/2012 at 7:11am |
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Well this is a bit of an interesting development, pulled the spare tranny out today to stick it on the scales:
  From what I could find on here it seems the 12-1 on the top indicates that it is an M12, so much for being hard to come by, had one sitting in the shed all along. The ID tag was not much help:  The big question is what sort of state the inside is in? Guess there might be a bit of exploratory work to do tomorrow. By the way, the weight was 60.5kg (133 lbs) so plugged it into FedEx and got a shippling quote of $1303 from the US to Australia, that's for ecomomy.  I'm sure there are cheaper options should the need arrise.
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RayJavelin
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Joined: Jan/12/2012 Location: West Australia Status: Offline Points: 40 |
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Posted: Jul/07/2012 at 8:17am |
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Hey Darren, I just went to the garage to check the numbers on the bw from my javelin and they seem to be the same as yours, I think you have an m11 just maybe your other numbers have rusted off. my bw has the numbers 12-1 but also has m11 in smaller letters next to it. Ill try and upload onto here just have to work out how to do it.
Cheers Ray  Edited by RayJavelin - Jul/07/2012 at 8:38am |
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