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Building My First Drag Car Help

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Javelin_GT View Drop Down
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    Posted: Sep/18/2008 at 4:16pm
First a little backfill.  I have a 1969 BBB Mod Javelin which I have owned for many years.  Back in the day I did mostly street racing but did get it to the track a few times.  Its a 390 with a TH400, 3500 stall, and 4:10 gears.  It ran mid 14's in Denver which has thin air.  This same motor had original square port heads that were stock too.

Fast forward a few years back, about 6 years this would.  I put quite a bit of money into a set of dog leg heads and rebuilt the top end.  Custom cam from COMP, roller rockers, port matched intake.  Lots of money in this.  Literally a week later the TH400 crapped out.  And the car has been sitting while I was moving around the country for work.

Current times....I just had the TH400 entirely rebuilt and the car is ready to go.  EXCEPT I am changing directions and am going to restore my BBB car back to a nice factory car I can take Sunday drives with.  I am building a whole new drive from front to back and taking this one out.

Now recently I just acquired a VERY bare 1969 AMX shell.  I mean this thing is stripped down but fairly solid.

I want to transplant my Javelin drive train in it and have a full time drag car with it. 
Now where I do begin preparing this thing for full time drag racing?
This is where I need the help.  What do I do for tires, suspension, brakes, weight loss, etc.

As a side note I am tubbing it or hacking it up in anyway. 

Any thoughts would be great.

Thanks


Edited by Javelin_GT - Sep/18/2008 at 4:58pm
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70MarkDonohue View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70MarkDonohue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/18/2008 at 7:46pm
Roll cage?
I now that guys here cut out the floor and put square tubing to tie the unibody from frount to back to tie the roll cage together. And they drill hole were ever they can to liten it up. Or you can go fiberglass frount end. And you can get a fiberglass deck lid and rear bumper. move the battery to the back over the passenger tire.
 


Edited by 70MarkDonohue - Sep/19/2008 at 7:20pm
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steeters View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steeters Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/19/2008 at 1:56pm
Do you know how fast you want to go?
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prostreetamx View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prostreetamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/19/2008 at 6:52pm
I used a 10 point cage and the through the floor frame conectors on my back halfed 77 AMX. My car still has the door crash bars which will probably go away soon but I did deleate the heavy bracing behind the bumpers. Your car does not have door bars and the bumpers are already pretty light but they actually make lots of fiberglass parts for the AMX. My fiberglass options are pretty slim. A fabricated shock tower brace wouldn't hurt if you have enough motor to twist the car. Most drag only cars use manual brakes and steering and no sway bar to reduce weight. I currently have the power options and sway bar on my car. A driveshaft safety loop is a must. I run a ladder bar rear but Caltracks and leafs work pretty good. If race only, you can use a 90/10 front shock. My car is a street only car at this time but not far from race ready.
Richard Payne

Las Vegas,NV

72 5.7 Hemi Javelin

77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

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FuzzFace2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/30/2008 at 2:22pm

My drag only car 70 Javelin: Glass front fenders, front & rear bumpers and rear valance, stock hood cut for 6pk scoop rest of body is stock. Inside is gutted but still have the stock dash cover & custom dash to hold oil psi, temp & volts, tech is bolted to the stock steering column. 1 racing seat and 5 point belts. Car still has all the stock glass in it. Front end rebuilt with 90/10 shocks, 6 cly springs, no sway bar, non power disc from a 76 Gremlin, manual steering, stock 14” front tires. Rear is 70 model 20 with 4.56 gear, locker & Moser axles, new stock leaf springs with Caltrac Bars, M/T 29x9x15 slick. Motor stock 74 360 lower end, 280H cam, stock 291c heads, torker intake w/750 dp, supper comp headers MSD dist wires & 6AL box. Trany TH400 reverse man. valve body & w/4000 stall & drive shaft loop. 18 gal fuel cell in trunk with batt. Holley blue pump.

All that is good for a #3120 lb car doing 13.0’s as I run out of motor before line at 6000 rpm.

I have not seen the body twist yet from pictures but when it does or I get more power I will add connectors and a roll bar as needed.

Here is a link to my junk when I was building it about 4 years ago. http://cars.grantskingdom.com/pics/racecar

 

As said how much money you have will tell you how fast you will go!

Dave ----

TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car
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