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budget 258 rebuild |
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Pdok 
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Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1025 |
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 Posted: Nov/16/2017 at 9:12am |
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I'm thinking you'll probably want the charcoal canister and the plumbing from the tank to the canister. There's an inline orifice to reduce the vacuum from Carb to canister too (Eagle guys can verify whether you have that or not). Those are good things to keep. I don't know exactly how they're plumbed on the Eagle, but you want to make sure there aren't any uncovered lines venting vapor or condensing fuel vapor from the tank under the hood, or back near the tank. Some of the larger AMC's used to have a liquid check valve on the way up to the charcoal canister, don't know if that design survived into the 80's or not on yours, but it kept liquid fuel out of the canister, I believe.
The trick is to keep enough vacuum signal to handle fuel vapor, at the right time, along with PCV signal at the right time. I'm trying to picture the half-dozen vacuum lines running around, and some of them are triggered by temperature. You've probably unhooked most already, but like I'm saying, some of them might do you some good still.
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Nov/16/2017 at 9:13am |
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By the way...I may have extra pcv and a hose or two.
I have a whole shelving unit of 258 stuff including blocks, heads, manifolds and other "stuff" I'd also go hei if it were mine. In fact when I was running the 258 in my eagle I did convert it to GM HEI from a six cyl chevy pickup truck. |
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TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice 
Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Posted: Nov/16/2017 at 9:37am |
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Ah, so it was probably just the pcv boot that was soggy. Ill see if I can find the 4.2 pcv in my piles of spare parts and get a new boot so I can put it back in. In the interim, its just going to vent to atmosphere for a while. I am already familiar with this subject as I had just finished putting a crankcase breather box on my vw dune buggy the day I saw the ad for the eagle.
I wont be adding the charcoal canister back in, but I am aware of the effects of fuel vapors, so they will not be venting under the hood. The many feet of vacuum lines are already removed, and Id rather not have complicated, trouble prone, vacuum operated 80s emissions tech doing the work a simple vented filler cap could do. I have to drop the tank to replace the rubber host to the pickup line anyway, Ill probably plug the vent at the tank then. Ill also add HEI to the wish list, but even though I went for the swap rather than a rebuild, I am still on a tight budget.
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Pdok
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Posted: Nov/16/2017 at 1:01pm |
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Just make sure you've got a plan to handle the gas tank pressure buildup. Some vented caps only allow incoming air. For instance, I believe the California emissions spec did not allow venting vapor out through the cap. I've found that without proper venting, I get tremendous pressure buildup in the summer time. It makes me worry about my tank integrity. Right now I've got it going to a modern canister, Jeep cherokee spec, and I'm still not sure I've got it right.
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Nov/16/2017 at 4:44pm |
I understand your tight budget - and if I have hose and parts like that you can use, I'll give it to you. I have "too much stuff" (if you ask my WIFE) and realize that I'll not use everything I have stashed away. I'd rather see someone use it fixing up an AMC who will love and appreciate the car..... I have spare stock distributors, wish I had an extra HEI for that but I may end up using it in another car I'm fixing up for another person. I've stripped stuff off Eagles and other 258s so....... |
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billd
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Posted: Nov/16/2017 at 4:47pm |
A pressure/vacuum cap would work fine. They allow a certain amount of pressure before venting. My tank will "whish" when I remove the cap but that's normal for the pressure/vacuum cap. It's a stock cap, too. My 70 Javelin is a pure, straight, vented cap and ugh, you can smell it when it gets a bit warmer. It also allows weeping or seeping upon heavy acceleration and I hate that. I may swap fill tubes and put a different cap on. but with Javelins, it's not as simple to swap out the filler neck. |
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TheBirdman
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Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Posted: Nov/16/2017 at 4:53pm |
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Thanks for the offer billd, Ill look through my stash and see if I can find it, but even so, a new one is like $2 at the auto parts store. Hardly worth the hassle of mailing one to me.
My current main concerns are setting the timing, adjusting the carter, bleeding/flushing the brakes, repairing the fuel line, and fabricating an exhaust pipe so I can work on it at night without worrying about pissing off my neighbors.
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farna
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Posted: Nov/18/2017 at 7:39am |
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The 4.0L has no PCV VALVE, but does have a PCV SYSTEM. This applies to early 4.0L (Renix) as well. There is a baffle in the valve cover that needs to be cleaned on a high mileage engine, and the hard plastic tube needs to be replaced. Both get obstructed with gunk over time. The tube is a little 1/8" or so, I wouldn't try to clean it. The baffle is screwed in from under the VC IIRC. The tube runs to the intake manifold like a "normal" PCV system. I eliminated the charcoal canister and all on my Renix install.
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Frank Swygert
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TheBirdman
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Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Posted: Nov/20/2017 at 9:11am |
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Farna,
which hole in the valve cover does this pcv system use? Front or rear? If I run that hose to manifold vacuum and the other to filtered air, would it be working as intended on a 4.0, even with the 4.2 intake and carb? In other news, I cleaned and sealed up the fuel tank, flushed and bled the brakes, and fabricated an exhaust pipe from the old exhaust to go around the front diff. I took it on a test drive to the gas station, and the drain plug fell out and dumped all my oil. The threads in the oil pan are stripped, and the expanding rubber plug that was in it was dry rotted and old. I put a new expanding rubber plug in it and it seems to be holding alright. Maybe next oil change time Ill drill it out and tap it a size larger. The brakes are still really soggy after being bled. The pads have plenty of material left, and I dont thing the booster is leaking, because it doesnt really lose pressure, it just doesnt fully pressurize in the first place. Any ideas?
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1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
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pacerman
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Posted: Nov/20/2017 at 11:21am |
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Don't know about the Eagle but with Bendix disk brakes on my 76 Gremlin, there is a little tab on the brake differential pressure valve that must be tripped or lifted up (can't remember which) when you bleed the front brakes. I lot of guys don't know this, I think, but it is mentioned in the TSM. There can be air trapped in the lines unless the procedure is followed correctly. Again, don't know if it applies to an Eagle. Joe
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TheBirdman wrote: