Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
budget 258 rebuild |
Post Reply | Page <1 11121314> |
Author | ||
TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
All things being (sorta close to) equal, the simplest way is always the best.
Anyways, I had someone move the throttle linkange to full and checked on the TV arm, and there was still about a quarter inch to go. So, I had to add even more length to the linkage rod. Funny how so many places say to set it at idle, when setting it at idle can be so far off from setting it at full throttle. I havent tested it out yet, because when I took the rear wheels off to replace the brake drums, I found that the wheel cylinders are all crudded up and leaking. Guess that explains the double pump brakes. Ill fix up the brakes today and try it out on this adjustment. Boy, it would really be useful to have a tach when working on shift linkages.
|
||
1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
||
TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Alright guys, I test drove it after adjusting the linkage to have no play at WOT, and its definitely adjusted too high. The upshifts are too delayed, and downshifts arent happening right either. Additionally, my reverse shudder came back. Since setting it at idle and setting it at WOT are quite a bit away from each other, Id say its pretty obvious that my linkage is not translating the full range of motion form the carb to the TV arm. if I set the linkage at idle, there is still a quarter inch at least left in the TV arm travel.
Two questions: what causes this? and How do I fix it?
|
||
1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
My suggestion... Pull the pan so you can see the TV shaft and the cam (curved hook) that is a part of it. Adjust your linkage until the cam is rested against it's stop (it's a screw). You will see that at it's rested position (idle) there will be a gap between the cam and the position it depresses. After having done that, have an assistant hold the throttle wide open at the carb (make sure the throttle blades do indeed open fully) while you make sure that the cam depresses the piston. To get an idea of how far the piston can depress, push it in with your finger. If all looks good, button it back up and test drive. It the cam does not depress the piston fully then you should check the stopper screw's adjustment (might need to be turned inward). I just had to do this to a customer's 2001 Dodge 1500 truck last week. It might be the 46RE, but it still uses the same TV, except for having a cable to move it.
|
||
Pdok
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1025 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
My suggestion, let off tension at wot until you get the shift you want, and leave it. You put a shift kit in, which changed things. You're obviously getting plenty of pressure.
|
||
76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
|
||
TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I think Im leaning towards just doing that. As long as the shift points are correct and its not slipping or shuddering, its still better off then a lot of things that are on the road.
Edited by TheBirdman - Dec/17/2017 at 8:54am |
||
1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I believe you are misunderstanding what I have said. I'm not saying to have the TV cam slightly depressing, or even touching the piston. You don't want that; as you will have too high of line pressure, which creates the late shifts you described a post or two ago. There should be a gap between the cam and the piston when at idle. The cam is supposed to be against it's stop at idle and fully depress the piston at WOT. This is what I had thought I had clearly explained in my last post. Being able to see the TV cam, it's stop, and the piston may very well greatly help you to get it adjusted properly. If I'm not mistaken, there was a good 3/16-1/4" gap on the 46RE I adjusted. Called my trans guy back east to confirm what I was seeing was correct and he gave my the green light. Man has been doing this for thirty years and he's built many a Chrysler trans for me, so I trust he is correct. |
||
TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Ah, sorry for the misunderstanding. When i put the valvebody back together from the shift kit install, i adjusted the screw so that there was so slack in it.
|
||
1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
It happens, pal. I'm not offended. I reread my last post and it didn't flow like I thought it did after last night's proof read. Lol.
So, you adjusted the stopper screw so there was no gap between the cam and the piston? |
||
TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Correct. I didnt know how to adjust it, so i called transgo support, and he told me to set it to 900 thou from the bracket, which took the gap out of the cam and added a little pressure.
|
||
1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Hmm... Well, I would try adjusting it so there is roughly a 3/16 gap between the cam and the piston. I wasn't able to find any info about the stopper's adjustment in the service manual at work, and that is why I called my trans guy to make sure that gap is supposed to be there. You would think that the cam is always supposed to be in contact with the piston and that they move together through the throttle range. But, after I've had some time to think about it, at idle and at tip in (just off idle) you really don't need added line pressure to just roll/coast in first gear. That's why the gap is there. It's not until you are accelerating and the trans is needing to change gears that the piston needs depressing.
|
||
Post Reply | Page <1 11121314> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |