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budget 258 rebuild |
Post Reply | Page <1 89101112 14> |
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TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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I got a transgo kit ordered, Im just going to take it easy on the transmission until then, then Ill do that, adjust the bands, and the throttle lever. One more weird question while we wait, on the stock radio there is a slider at the top that says nothing on the left side and has the amc logo on the right side. For the life of me, I cant notice any difference in anything when I switch it, and its really bugging me more than it should. What the heck is this thing?
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1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
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purple72Gremlin
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 16591 |
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Either AM/FM selector, or balance.....
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Right on the selector shaft seal - but beware that Rockauto used to have the wrong part number associated with the wrong seal - as did O'Reilly and others. NAPA was the only place that had the correct seal and number in their books. The others all copied each other. When I ordered seals I got output shaft seals. It's tricky to replace that seal, but it's a common place for leaks on these transmissions.
I also believe Frank is right on the Eagle and valves - all I've seen on Eagle is the pressure differential switch - on the right side firewall down low. I've been all up and down and crossways on a few Eagles and have not yet seen any valves in the brakes, proportioning, metering or otherwise - only the pressure differential switch. |
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TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Nope, am/fm is the slider below the display, and balance is the outer knob on the right
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1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
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Pdok
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1021 |
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For transmission repair parts I'd highly recommend a pro level supplier. Sonnax comes to mind, but if you know a good rebuild guy he can probably order for you easily and you will get the right stuff. Depending on the shifter seal condition, there's a bushing repair kit with a high dollar drill bit and alignment tool if the metal of the case is actually worn around the shaft. You'd probably be having a small puddle if that was the case... But, not if you were running low on fluid, which could also contribute to clutch slippage I think.
I suspect band adjustment and shift kit would be pretty reasonable priced if you had it done. You're looking for an old school transmission place, though, not a franchise. If it were me, the tranny would be the absolute last thing I'd fix on your list! Just keep it filled and drive it until you can't ignore it. |
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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The first thing I did when the car was drivable was warm up the tranny and check the fluid level, so I know its not low. Ill be installing the shift kit and adjusting the bands myself when it arrives. Like you said, I dont think the shifter seal is leaking, because no fluid comes out. As for ignoring it, that just something I cant do. One universal concept is that vibration means wear, wear is bad.
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1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
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TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Hey guys, Im back.
The shift kit arrived last week, but I was busy patching floor pan holes. Anyways, I popped off the trans pan last night and just about got the valvebody out, but I cant figure out how to get the throttle valve linkage arm off so I can drop the VB out. I know the shifter linkage is a clamp on type, and Ive seen pictures of the TV linkage arm so I know how its shaped, but I just cant figure out how it is secured onto the shaft. I probably could if I had an inspection mirror, but I seem to have lost mine. Ill get one today after work and take a look up there, but can anyone here tell me how to get this little bugger off?
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1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
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Pdok
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1021 |
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Here's what you're dealing with, in a better picture from the top. I'm about 69% sure you have to press out the shaft...? Google "904 shift selector shaft removal" and you should find something to help better than I can. |
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Thanks, that helped me figure it out. Anyways, I got it out, cleaned, and modified as per the transgo TF-2 shift kit, but now Ive got another question. How should I set this allen screw that controls the stop of the throttle valve? I did some research and it looks like it is for adjusting the idle throttle pressure. A-904 manuals sat to use a tool 5/8 wide to bottom out the TV, then adjust the screw down until it touches the tool, but in the transgo kit, part of the modification is to grind down the stem on the TV, so in effect, it would not bottom out until much later in the stroke. What are you supposed to set this to in a 904 or 998? I have set it to around where it was when it came out, but I cant seem to find any information on this setting after a shift kit install.
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1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
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Pdok
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1021 |
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That's beyond me. However, the function of that lever is to increase pressure as the throttle moves, not just at idle. The on-car adjustment ensures that the throttle reaches full Wide-open position at the same time as the lever reaches full travel. And, every millimeter the throttle moves is matched by the same movement on the lever. If you increase the distance it moves, you could end up not moving it far enough with the throttle movement. In other words, when you hit WOT, you could still have some leftover distance before it bottoms out. I'm thinking that's undesirable, but I really don't have that level of technical knowledge. When I did mine, I actually swapped VB's and avoided the transgo mods that way. I'd intended to do the TF-2, but found that my shifter shaft leaked anyway, and did the VB swap.
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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