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Broken wires in 69 amx temp gauge

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jl2556 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jl2556 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Broken wires in 69 amx temp gauge
    Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 7:23am
So, after I got my tach face off last night I noticed the temp gauge face had been marked up where someone had tried to remove it. I assume they tried to repair it/inspect it while the gauge was still in the cluster and I don't think they attempted to pull the face off to really see what was going on. I took the gauge out to inspect it. The needle had come off the prongs and both of the tiniest wires I've ever seen where broke from the heating element (I assume that's what's it's called). Did the wires break because the heating element was bad? Can I repair the gauge (resolder?), if not can someone else?

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 8:08am
Originally posted by jl2556 jl2556 wrote:

So, after I got my tach face off last night I noticed the temp gauge face had been marked up where someone had tried to remove it. I assume they tried to repair it/inspect it while the gauge was still in the cluster and I don't think they attempted to pull the face off to really see what was going on. I took the gauge out to inspect it. The needle had come off the prongs and both of the tiniest wires I've ever seen where broke from the heating element (I assume that's what's it's called). Did the wires break because the heating element was bad? Can I repair the gauge (resolder?), if not can someone else?



Well I can fix mine, but have a good clue to how things fit together.

Being so questionable about the true condition, i would say to put up a wanted for the year and model temp gauge you meed for replacement. Some who sell may like your core to fix and use as well.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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jl2556 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jl2556 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 9:06am
This is what I got:

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 9:15am
Looks like the same type in my 71 Javelin cluster.

You may be able to solder the good end to the post that the broken end is on. Seems like it may have enough length.

As for the needle, it gets placed where the V bend is and the holding arm. You have to carefully place pressure on the V bent arm inward to allow the loop to fit in the V. Once the springy pressure is in relaxed state, the needle will face properly into position.


I'll post my picture to show how it is placed into the arms and in place.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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jl2556 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jl2556 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 9:15am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jl2556 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 9:26am
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Looks like the same type in my 71 Javelin cluster.

You may be able to solder the good end to the post that the broken end is on. Seems like it may have enough length.


On the rt side (poll closest to the heating element) I have enough, I don't think I have enough for the other end, I would either have to add wire (where do you get something that small?) or I would have to unravel some more wire. Does the heating element have to have the original length to function properly? I'm concerned about the burn/hot spot on the coils on the heating element in the 2nd pic...

Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

As for the needle, it gets placed where the V bend is and the holding arm. You have to carefully place pressure on the V bent arm inward to allow the loop to fit in the V. Once the springy pressure is in relaxed state, the needle will face properly into position.

I think I got it on right. The needle is tight and is spring loaded to stay down towards the cool position.


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I'll post my picture to show how it is placed into the arms and in place.

That would be great

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 9:34am
Just make sure the loop to the needle is held inside the V bent ends to the arms. I removed the needle to show the V bent ends






71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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jl2556 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jl2556 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 11:13am
Thanks for the pics
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rodhhrod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 1:30pm
PM sent
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 6:59pm
Hey, are those little arms with teeth there to be able to calibrate the gauge ? If so do you calibrate to full, empty or in the middle ? One arm for each end of the scale ??
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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