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Broken studs: Pushrods too long?? |
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Steeno
AMC Apprentice Joined: Aug/24/2011 Location: Ottawa/Canada Status: Offline Points: 88 |
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That's funny about the Straub video. It's the very one I used to follow my measurement. In fact I emailed Scott with a few questions at the time, and he got back to me. Very informative and helpful.
So i'm guessing I made a mistake somewhere in his procedure...despite it being a very clear and simple procedure. Again, I was sure I had it right when I check the pattern at the valve stem when my new pushrods arrived. Thanks for all the responses. The multiple variables mentioned by other posters helps narrow it down a bit. I'm becoming slightly more convinced that the pushrods are too long. There is no valve to piston issues, or bottoming out on the guides...or spring bind as far as I can tell (the eddy heads say they are good for up to .600 lift or so). As for the preload, johnson's call for only 0.035" on preload -- about 3/4 turn after the pushrod is finger tight... But maybe somewhere in there, I over did it. I'll have to review all my procedures etc.
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77 Hornet Hatchback 401 four speed.
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shootist
AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023 |
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I would also suggest (if you haven't already) that you use a micrometer to measure the actual pushrod length. It is very possible that the wrong length pushrods were put in the wrong box by the manufacturer. Or if the pushrods were ordered by someone checked then returned they could have returned them in the wrong box.
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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I would have said that as well, but if they are bent, then the reading would be off. After some thing like that, I would verify all are straight before thinking of doing anything with them. Good point on the spring tolerances with preloaded, but I thought Eddys allowed for bigger than stock spring setups. Just was not sure how much more than stock until it was verified .6000. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Steeno
AMC Apprentice Joined: Aug/24/2011 Location: Ottawa/Canada Status: Offline Points: 88 |
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Shootist/304 dude.
Good point re checking the pushrods for length...can't recall if I had done that when I received and installed them (they are trick flow ordered from summit). I'm slowly learning what others have said here many times...always check aftermarket parts...no matter what the label claims. :). I'll check tonight and let you know. As for the pushrods, they seem to be dead straight -- I have a milled flat surface that I rolled them over to check. Pretty amazing that they didn't bend in snapping the studs. |
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77 Hornet Hatchback 401 four speed.
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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This is a job for Boris... post your spring rate, measured lift, and spring gap at lift measured, and spring gap limit by the spring manufacturer, rocker arm ratio, and your factory cam lift once more in a nice spec listing for him to notice.
I still think them 3/8" studs may not be the best option for your setup. As wear may show push rod length being a causé, but if your springs and loads on the studs cause rocking under revs then you will get wear as well. Harmonics and flex under pressure will cause them straight rocker studs to bend in and out as if springy, and make for some interesting wear as well as break. I am not an engine builder, but am cautious about some things that can be over looked by the obvious. I have plans to run a hydraulic roller cam, and am set for 7/16" studs. So i don't have to worry about the excessive forces on the studs. You did not say you run a girdle maybe instead of changing to 7/16" studs, add a girdle, it may be the best cost effective option for keeping your 3/8" studs inline. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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AMC RICK 401
AMC Apprentice Joined: Aug/06/2014 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 207 |
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don't rule out a defective stud.
I have seen that before. |
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1969 SC Rambler
1974 Jeep CJ5 Dirt/Sand Drag Racer w/401 TH400 Tube Chassis Dirt/Sand Drag Racer w/401 Powerglide "We are not here for a long time but we are here for a good time" |
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Steeno
AMC Apprentice Joined: Aug/24/2011 Location: Ottawa/Canada Status: Offline Points: 88 |
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Hi All,
Just an update, as promised. I did check the length of my existing pushrods to confirm they were the length I ordered (as shootist suggested). The were dead on. In remeasuring everything last night, using the Scott Foxwell/Straub method of checking valve train geometry and pushrod length (see earlier post above with a link to a youtube video). All this done again last night and rechecked, looks like my pushrods are nearly 0.100" too long. Running it through the engine cycle by hand using the adjustable pushrod in place at the new shorter length, looks like I have much better clearance of the poly lock to the inside top of the rocker slot and the pushrod-to-rocker clearance near the bottom backside of the rocker. As well, the roller tip is near dead center of the valve tip...and certainly the "sweep" of the tip across the valve stem is minimal. All good (better). I'm ordering new pushrods and rocker studs today. I think that might take care of my rocker stud failure issue. Many thanks for all your input. Cheers. Steeno. |
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77 Hornet Hatchback 401 four speed.
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shootist
AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023 |
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Well now that you have remeasrued you are getting more of what I would have expected for length. I run a very similar setup to you on my motor and if I remember correctly my pushrods were 7.750" or 7.775" I would have to go back and check my paperwork again. Glad you figured it out and thanks for updating us.
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