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broke a strut rod!! (72 hornet)

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uncljohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/26/2014 at 4:43am
Originally posted by akimmet akimmet wrote:

Did you use poly strut rod bushings? With Fords using poly strut rod bushings is a huge no-no. It is known to cause the strut rod to snap at the bushing.

I haven't heard of this problem with an AMC before, but is a very common problem on a Ford if poly bushings are used.

After doing a search for this problem on a Ford, you are right. It is a common enough problem to be a concern with many articles on it.
Kind of interesting basically in that every strut rod bushing I have purchased (and I have built over 2 dozen front ends) came with a set of instructions that covered both a Ford and an AMC application. And for the most part, although there are multiple variations of it, the aftermarket coil over front ends are originally based on the Mustang II or Pinto front end. Which also uses the strut rod principle with the same monky motion on the strut rod movement.
Although a builder I know has had remarkable success re-bending the strut rod to eliminate the monkey motion movement leaving just a twisting action as the bushing.  As many of the applications are on rat rids, beauty is not a concern. He claims that the front suspension is more stable.  Comparing the Rat Rod application to OEM for the same assembly, OEM is usually quite a bit more lighter in the front.  I sure would like to see a replacement for the AMC engine mount cross member that gives a triangulated lower control arm with Caster and Camber adjusting capability that eliminated the monky motion movement of the lower control arm.  The lower ball joint would bolt right in and the cross member be able to be used for any engine with changeable bolt in engine mounts and a Flaming Rivers power rack and pinion steering.


70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration
76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401jim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/26/2014 at 12:16pm
I have a pair of strut rods off of my 72 hornet. Super condition. P.M. me
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2014 at 1:07am
thanks all for the posts! here's what i found...

nope, it's got "normal" (whatever that means...) Moog rubber bushings on it.

...and here's the danger of experience -- i thought with 40 years of wrenching these boats i "knew all about strut rods". hahaha what an idiot i was. there are many different variations... besides the 60's types with the swages instead of inner nut, the "hornet" type (72-up) there are at least *two* different working lengths -- long and short.

70 - 77 hornet and some javelins share one length. installed, from the rear-most hole where it bolts to the lower control arm, to the "centerline" of the strut bracket in back, the 72 hornet is about 11.5" (that distance varies of course with caster adjsutment, but it's close to that). 78-up is about 13.5". the parts look the same -- except for variations in the front tip, steering stop or not -- but are different lengths.

i'm not talking about overall length, that matters less, but the "working" length. that's what threw me.

the rod is not a simple "rod", it's a forging/stamping with diameter that varies -- and yes, ours broke right where it necks down to be threaded, so it was stressed there (clearly, threads are "stress risers" especially the inner-most).

that jointed racer-type rod sure looks correct. i never liked any of the strut-based suspensions, and it took 20 years into my AMC experience to realize the subtlety of that lower arm, inner bushing mount press fit, is tight in one half, only, and loose fit int he other, to accomodate the *twist* the lower stamped arm makes as it goes up and down. it's fine, but a crock. i much prefer the ancient Nash Rambler double-A-arm in spite of the peculiar complexities. i think it's more robust (but a lot more complex).

found one for sale in OK and paid for it, i hope that works out... should be here by friday...
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2014 at 1:10am
WAIT! oh man... it just occurred to me that too much compression on the rubber donuts could massively stress the strut rod just forward of the bushing. i'll have to RTFM the TSM to see what te recommendation is -- if the rubber is too compressed, the rod will need to bend (be subject to bending forces) right in front of the front bushing as the wheel goes up and down... i will check that...

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greaser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2014 at 1:28am
I thought there was a steel sleeve inside the bushings that kept it from being over compressed by an overzealous tech.? Not sure though.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2014 at 2:04am
Originally posted by greaser greaser wrote:

I thought there was a steel sleeve inside the bushings that kept it from being over compressed by an overzealous tech.? Not sure though.


you are correct, there is, so that should not be it... i've got *another* coming, tomorrow, we'll see...




Edited by tomj - Aug/01/2014 at 3:12am
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Bart R. Orlans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bart R. Orlans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2014 at 8:07am
The '65 TSM says 80 ft/lbs on the nut if memory serves and there is a steel sleeve in them for sure.
Bart R. Orlans



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2014 at 12:54pm
What's needed is a ball pivot with a rubber backing to absorb the shocks of potholes. I wish I could draw a diagram of what I see in my mind's eye. A strut rod with a large heim ball on the threaded portion that slips through a "capture pocket" (2 plates with holes through them) lined with rubber and a large washer fore and aft to keep it from pulling through in the event of a heim failure.

Found what I was looking for, sort of. Borrowed from the Mustang forum.




Edited by carnuck - Jul/29/2014 at 1:06pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenoshakicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 10:47am
Does anyone know if the strut rods from a 1973 Javelin is the exact same one as from a 1977 Hornet AMX?  Also, are the shocks front and rear the same?  According to the Advance Auto website the front shocks are the same.  I have the parts from the Hornet and need to know if they will fit my Javelin. Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 11:05am
Originally posted by kenoshakicker kenoshakicker wrote:

Does anyone know if the strut rods from a 1973 Javelin is the exact same one as from a 1977 Hornet AMX?  Also, are the shocks front and rear the same?  According to the Advance Auto website the front shocks are the same.  I have the parts from the Hornet and need to know if they will fit my Javelin. Thanks.


Don't think so, Javelin is considered large body. Hornet, Gremlin and other smaller cars have smaller area to work with in the suspension.
71 Javelin SST body
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