Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
brake warning light |
Post Reply |
Author | |
709karl
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/23/2011 Location: Sebastian, Fl Status: Offline Points: 190 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: Apr/16/2014 at 8:07pm |
Quick question re: the brake warning light for a 68 amx, Stays on, (at first intermittently) having checked the brakes and feel fairly certain that there isn't an issue...still is distracting. Any advice? Thanks, Karl
|
|
FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10356 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If you pull the wire off the valve assy. does the light go out or stay on? If it stays on then there is a short in the wire to ground turning the light on.
If it goes out you need to find the cause why the light came on.
Is/did the fluid go low/empty on one side? You do brake work then it stayed on?
If the front & rear systems check out and no air in the lines you may need to rest the valve.
The TSM will say how to reset it.
Dave ----
|
|
TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
|
mmaher94087
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/01/2008 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 1690 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Did you bleed the brakes recently? If so, did you remove the plastic cap and the internals from the brass fitting on the passenger side firewall before bleeding? The warning light is telling you that there is an imbalance between the front and rear brakes and you need to fix it. Pull the wire that goes to the top of the plastic cap on the brass piece and see if the light goes out. It should; but that indicates the imbalance that needs to be addressed.
|
|
Mike
|
|
401MATCOUPE
AMC Addicted Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5367 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Anytime you work the bleeding brakes on these early AMC's with this brass block/switch assembly in, you should remove the plastic cap, plastic break away rod, spring and brass cup. What happens and Mike Maher has said above is it is monitoring the front and back brake pressures, when a dissimilar pressure is felt at the pistons inside.....they move to either side (depending on which one is low or high pressure)...they pisons have a small taper which allows the spring loaded plastic pin to drop down and the brass washer under the spring to make contact with the brass housing and provide a ground path for the terminal/wiring connected to the unit. During bleeding, the pistons have a tendancey to slid back and forth, which is not a problem when the switch is not in place, but when they are in place, the movement can be enough to break off the end of the plastic break away rod.....now is when you have a problem.....the brake will work normally and fine....this an important indication only feature. I have bought far to many cars over the years with the wire off the switch or some other means to keep the circuit from getting a ground. If you find the plunger is broken, while you have the switch out, look inside the unit....it is very hard, the hole is small. But you should be able to see the pistons...you must have them centered...with no brake pressure they "can" move with a pic, becareful no to scratch or damage the pistons....you need to get the broken piece of the plunger out of the hole. I normally use air pressure. NOTE: If pistons will not move, you will have to remove from car and disassemble the end caps.....but it is all real easy. Once removed, recenter pistons, go pump the brakes a bunch of times to make sure the pistons stay centered...if they don't you have something else going on!! Once you confirm the re-center, then you need to re-install the switch with NEW plunger. Contact Steve at Muscle Car Research...he is a member of this Forum and he has Switch repair Kits along with full rebuild kits....highest quality and I have used them many times..here is his web address: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/
Just remember what ever you end up doing, never install the plunger until you are sure everythign is correct in the Hydraulic side of the brakes....the plastic cap and plunger can all stay removed during bleeding/testing/initial driving...this is a dry portion of the valve and should not have fluid in it....if it does, then you need to go into the piston seal o-rings....MCR has all those parts in his full kit.
|
|
Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
|
709karl
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/23/2011 Location: Sebastian, Fl Status: Offline Points: 190 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks for the replies guys. I haven't done any work on the brakes as they haven't indicated any need. The brakes seem to work perfectly and my hope was to avoid unnecessary work with my currently limited time...I'll get at it further today, try taking the wire off, check fluids again, etc. The brakes were done several years ago with very little use since...let you know, Thanks again!! Karl
|
|
KermitDRambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/06/2007 Location: Cincinnati, OH Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Is that light also used to indicate the parking brake is applied? If so, it may be an issue with the parking brake (cables not adjusted).
BTW, couple year old brakes with very little use is a good recipe for leaking wheel cylinders. Brakes are one of the first things to go when a car sits a lot.
Matt
|
|
709karl
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/23/2011 Location: Sebastian, Fl Status: Offline Points: 190 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks Matt, It's a separate light...have checked for leaks, hope to give it another look today. Karl
|
|
401MATCOUPE
AMC Addicted Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5367 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The park brake light switch is on the park brake mechanism......single wire.
|
|
Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
|
709karl
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/23/2011 Location: Sebastian, Fl Status: Offline Points: 190 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
TOday, I took the little plastic cover off the switch, the manual said the plunger will lean towards the system that has lower pressure. The diagram makes it pretty explicit how the thing works. The plunger was pretty much vertical (which is a good indicator for trouble shooting). Anyhow, I fondled the plunger a little & made sure the plastic cap fit on...connected the lead and ***, the light went out. It can't be that easy. Do I trust it?
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |