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Brake Prop Valve |
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mick gill
AMC Apprentice Joined: Aug/03/2012 Location: NSW Australia Status: Offline Points: 196 |
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Posted: Jul/18/2016 at 7:06pm |
Hello. Does anyone know where I may be able to find a proportioning valve for my 71 Matador?
New would be nice and using another brand would not bother me at all. Thanks, Mick. |
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71 Matador 360/Auto
77 HZ One Tonner 350/T400 |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9081 |
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if 74Matcoupe or any other parts guy doesnt pop up with an item, you can use an adjustable one by any speed shop.
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5787 |
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I bought this type of Wilwood adjustable unit (P# 260-11179) from VPW.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wilwood-260-11179-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-Knob-Adjustment-3-8-24-in-Inverte-/322154633655?hash=item4b01e999b7 Otherwise I reckon google or ebay GM brake proportioning valve and you will find something to suit your needs. |
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70Hornet
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/24/2012 Location: NSW Australia Status: Offline Points: 895 |
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Hi Mick. Is it the proportioning valve you want or the brake differential valve? I always get confused as the one in the engine bay is usually the brake differential and although looks technical is just to give you the warning light if things go bad for the front or the back. Or I might be wrong . My Hornet has a HQ brake differential valve fitted in the engine bay. And my actual HQ then has a round Prop valve under the chassis. The Hornet has a funny shaped brass rectangular thing under it too which I am thinking is the prop valve. The adjustable one's mentioned are apparently the way to go there.
Edited by 70Hornet - Jul/25/2016 at 5:41am |
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5787 |
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The proportioning valve you finf in the rear line (also know as a pressure limiting valve). The funny shaped brass rectangular thing and the round one are just different versions of the same thing. The one AMC used from 68-70 looks like this:
https://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-rebuild-kh-multi-prop This is the differential pressure switch (puts the dash warning light on if there is a pressure imbalance between front and rear as mentioned above), it was used for all 67-70 cars and 71-73 cars with drum brakes apparently. In 71 AMC went to a dual purpose differential pressure switch and proportioning valve on cars with front discs that looks like this: I'm not sure if this version carried though to 74 and/or if this type was used on Australian assembled cars, but there are plenty of generic options for this type of valve. The Wilwood one I posted previously just has the added benefit of being adjustable, which you may or may not need. Edited by WesternRed - Jul/25/2016 at 6:57am |
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mrblatzman
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/01/2008 Location: Alabama CSA Status: Offline Points: 2154 |
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I have NOS like the rusty last pictured one...The still sealed AMC box say Matador or Ambassador and I have never been able to reference as there is a group number but no part number, Bob Reno in Alabama
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Thankyou....Bob
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5787 |
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pit crew
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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Classic Performance has generic ones available. We have used them before as a replacement for the cast iron KH version. I am just not sure how available they would be in Oz. They offer them in disc/drum and drum/drum configurations.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-pv-2/overview/ |
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73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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mick gill
AMC Apprentice Joined: Aug/03/2012 Location: NSW Australia Status: Offline Points: 196 |
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Hello and thanks for all the replies.
As it turns out, my brake issues are a combo of a couple of issues. My master cylinder turned up its toes, so I bought a dual outlet job. When this was fitted, it was decided to change the pushrod as well. As it turns out, this rod is too long, not letting the piston in the mc to return home. Also, all of my brake lines were full of crud severely restricting the movement of the fluid. I've previously flushed and bled on numerous occasions. As it turns out, new front brake lines (and the factory pushrod)were the only way to fix this. Luckily I live in a small town which has an old school mechanic or two who work from home after retiring. Thanks for all your help forumers, the old Matador will have all 4 brakes working by this arvo. |
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71 Matador 360/Auto
77 HZ One Tonner 350/T400 |
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