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Brake light/direction signal diagnosis

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Foreve in Blue Jeans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foreve in Blue Jeans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Brake light/direction signal diagnosis
    Posted: Nov/25/2019 at 3:18pm
As I read the wiring diagram in the tsm, the brake pressure switch goes through the directional signal switch, and the white (right tail light  brake wire) comes from the directional signal switch.     

If my right and left turn signals work, and my left brake light works, but not my right: I should think my turn signal selector switch on the column (directional signal switch sw.) is the cause. 

Does this seem like the obvious answer? I'm not experienced, this seems like the logical location of my problem: continuity and functional right turn; non continuity non functional right brake light. 

'64 American 

- Aaron  > this character won't go away >i
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2019 at 8:19pm
you are correct. (good diagnosis, btw). i've never been able to find the equivalent of a schematic for the switch assembly, itself. it's odd in there; make-before-break contacts, double-sliding odd logic etc.

i managed to get a Sheemar SM726 switch from RockAuto to work in my 69 american. I had to drill a hole for the hazard flashers switch to poke through (round hole an inch from the edge; stock was a square notch in the back end). Also only two of the three mounting screws (the funny long shouldered screw with springs and locking pieces) fit. Working just great though. wasn't cheap!

have you pulled the steering wheel yet? It's ugly in there! lol. Not exactly a place that gets much attention. Weird too. Not so bad once you figure it all out. Mine was hosed when I got it, so I yanked the entire column out and fixed the sloppy (column manual) shifter, scrubbed clean, replaced switch, etc.

Phun with old cars!



1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T96
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Foreve in Blue Jeans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foreve in Blue Jeans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2019 at 10:01pm
Thank you Tom, I have not looked in there yet; it's funny tho, I just tightened the steering wheel (no horn in the way to be bothered by). When I get in there I will report back with my findings..as it sits the directional switch finds the left selection much easier than right. 

Thx for your quick reply, and even more for your insight!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foreve in Blue Jeans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/28/2019 at 10:08am
Well, I wrote a whole lot..like six paragraphs...and it just disappeared before my eyes. My fone and this fourms don't like eachother. Happy Turkey Day Everyone!!

There was a whole story...but meh..looked at the turn signal switch. Decided for now I will have to forgo turn signals to get my brake lights working...better. I found also that the brakes light(s) come on only with lots of pressure on the pedal.

I will bypass the pressure switch on the master cylinder as well as the directional signal sw. to look something like this...

Hall Effect switch at pedal---power to brake lights.  Entirely ignoring systems in place, adding wiring and the switch to give me stop lighting as soon as I touch the middle pedal. I'd like also to install a third brake light mounted in a roof spoiler (: 

Short and not really focused on the problems, now I have had a chance to consider my plan of action. Will post back when I make some progress!

  - Aaron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2019 at 8:53am
All you really have to do is pull the two wires from the pressure switch in and connect to a switch on the pedal. A simple momentary  NO switch that the pedal presses, Or a NC momentary on the front of the pedal (best). Adjust the NC switch so the pedal hold it down (off, or open). The lights come on when pedal is pressed and closes switch.

For those who haven't followed, NO is normally open (off until pushed)...
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2019 at 8:33pm
a Hall Effect solid state switch doesn't really solve the problem, and then you have to deal with switching a few amps.

Ron Francis Wiring sells a pricey hydraulic brake switcht at actually works, and lasts. and uses less pressure than factory. the NAPA/Echlin part is worthless junk. They used to be good, decades ago, but the last couple I sawed open, the crimped rubber seak had leaked brake fluid after it ate through.

or as Frank says, a switch on the pedal with a bracket etc.

But they hyd switch is easy, if you buy a good one.

1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T96
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