Brake issues.....

Ok when you said "swapped pads" hope that was for new pads?

I would never do half a system like 1 rotor and then 1 caliper!
Do both calipers, both rotors at the same time. I would also replace BOTH rubber hoses seeing the system is down now.

On the master did you bench bleed the master before you installed it?
If not you will never get a pedal.
Sometimes once the master is benched bleed and cant get anything at the wheels you have to start at the master and at the first fitting after the master crack it to bleed. Once you have fluid move on down the line to the wheels.
You also did not say how you were bleeding the system.

I see your point on the removal of the valve for the light, don't need it to tell me I have no brakes when pedal is on the floor!

As for the line lock if you are not drag racing the car every weekend WITH slicks don't add it. It just adds more things to the problem.

BTW how old are the rear wheel cly and rubber hose? If old I would replace them with the new front parts and your brake system is like new.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote: Ok when you said "swapped pads" hope that was for new pads? I would never do half a system like 1 rotor and then 1 caliper! Do both calipers, both rotors at the same time. I would also replace BOTH rubber hoses seeing the system is down now. On the master did you bench bleed the master before you installed it? If not you will never get a pedal. Sometimes once the master is benched bleed and cant get anything at the wheels you have to start at the master and at the first fitting after the master crack it to bleed. Once you have fluid move on down the line to the wheels. You also did not say how you were bleeding the system. I see your point on the removal of the valve for the light, don't need it to tell me I have no brakes when pedal is on the floor! As for the line lock if you are not drag racing the car every weekend WITH slicks don't add it. It just adds more things to the problem. BTW how old are the rear wheel cly and rubber hose? If old I would replace them with the new front parts and your brake system is like new. Dave ----

Fuzz- Everything in the brake system is new or rebuilt and was installed less than 200 miles ago. And I mean EVERYTHING. Rotors were turned, rebuilt calipers, new drums, new wheel cylinders, new pads, new shoes, new MC (this one is a 1 1/8th" bore MC from a 76 ( I thought perhaps the additional fluid it pushes might be good with the 3.1" piston calipers), rebuilt booster, new front and rear metal (not stainless) brake lines, all new brake hoses, pedal assembly was rebuilt/restored as was bell crank that goes from pedal linkage to booster, new proportioning valve (on rear frame frail).  Literally EVERYTHING in the brake system had already been gone thru once already, again under 200 miles ago.

As of last night I have put new (rebuilt) calipers on both sides, a new MC, swapped in another rebuilt booster I had for the other AMX that is in paint. I have gone around, cracked and re-tightened every fitting, gone through the TSM brake bleeding procedure 3X and pushed 2 bottles of DOT5 fluid thru just to make sure they were thoroughly bled.. I can get a pedal if I pump it a few times but on initial push it goes to the floor. 

I am not getting air when I bleed and do not see any obvious leaks that should be causing this.

Perplexing...

LOL- yeah, mine are bleeder side up, but I can see how that could happen.

Dennis

silicone fluid (DOT5) does not have a mushy feel. it's an incompressible liquid, done and done. i ran it for 20, 21 years in my old classic wagon. 

FYI, it is somewhat critical that the master cylinder be mounted in the vice absolutely flat to ensure the bleeding process doesn't trap a bit of air in the master. I use a known accurate level for this purpose and place it on top of the master with the lid removed.