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Brake failureight on. 72 javelin

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Perrybones View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Perrybones Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/10/2019 at 4:08pm
PHAT is always spot on with the tech. Good job
Perry 70 Javelin SST 390, 69 AMX 343, 73 AMX 360, 67 Rebel SST Conv and 92 Corvette Conv. (modern muscle to keep wife happy).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/10/2019 at 5:55pm
Originally posted by target target wrote:

Can you do that without losing brake fluid?


Oh, yeah. There should NEVER be fluid there - if there was it would blow out past the switch as that's not really sealed against pressure.

With the Ford type you pull the switch, screw in the tool and it holds the shuttles centered. 

Here's a pic of the AMC type with the o-rings shown in black. You replace those if there's fluid coming out the center.


This is the Ford version - you remove the switch, put the tool in and it has a pin that holds the shuttle from moving - Ford is the opposite of what AMC uses. AMC drops the switch to trigger it, Ford raises the switch pin up to trigger it. 



I have rebuilt these, the combo valves and others as well. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CHAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/13/2019 at 3:07pm
This may be far fetched, but the parking brake light is the same circuit.  Fault at the switch at the E brake pedal? Or it that plug loose? 

 I am only hoping because I cant for the life of me figure out where the E brake warning light connection is made on the pedal assemb.  Either Im an idiot and Im looking right at it or its gone.  Anyone got a pic?
72 Javelin SST P code 360/auto/AC/rear defrost /Go Pack/Polar White w blue cord interior.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/13/2019 at 11:36pm
If it is the Differential Switch being tripped, on the passenger side firewall,
you need to remove the nylon nut, tiny Nylon Pin, Brass Spring, and Brass Ring...
and it may be stuck in there if it is tripped and the brake were bled with it in place,
it may take a pair of tiny pliers to get ahold of the tiny nylon pin and pull it out.
Then maybe mash the brake pedal good and hard a couple few times
to try and see if it will re-center the switch plunger with the pin removed.

This is a less than clear picture of the E-Brake Warning Light Switch on the E-Brake Assy on a '69,
it is a very simple single wire switch that connects to ground when the E-Brake is on.
On the 1969, the E-Brake Warning Light is it's own stand alone 2 wire little harness and Bulb Holder.
It was part of the Light Group or Visibility Group Option iirc.
It is not part of or the same as the Hydraulic Brake Pressure loss switch under the hood.




Edited by PHAT69AMX - Sep/13/2019 at 11:39pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2019 at 7:26am
That's normally what was done to recenter the pressure differential switch - remove the center switch section and stop the brake pedal to try to recenter the shuttle in the block.

And yea, some cars the light was the same for parking brake or pressure differential - Eagle it was the same light.
So - speaking generally of any question posted here, Fakebook, anywhere - this is why folks REALLY REALLY need to specific the model and year of their car when asking any question. Things can vary. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dustintf522 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/01/2020 at 5:35pm
My nylon cap twisted off! Does anyone have any idea what I can use or find a replacement nylon cap? Thanks in advanced!
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